Whistler Peak -- East Couloir

[goatboy]

Anyone out there ever climb the East Couloir on Whistler Peak?

 

There are actually 2 parallel couloirs there, I'm referring to the climber's right, east-most couloir that goes to the lower col.

 

Curious how steep it gets and what the ridge is like from the top of the couloir to the summit. Trying to decide whether to bring rope for any rock sections, or if I can expect mainly snow or easy ridge scrambling.

 

Thanks!

Edited April 24, 2004 by goatboy

[genepires]

if you are refering to the gullies that you can see from the highway, (no guidebook here) then the climbing is pretty moderate. The snow max angle is about 45 degrees for a small bit and is all flat footing for the rest. The rock is pretty rank above though. There is a crappy traverse across the other gulley entrance. It doesn't get much better farther on but is managable. It is probably standard rock quality but with good granite nearby, it seemed sketchy. We didn't use the rope. Enjoy though! It is a good route especially if you have done all the other classics in the pass.

[Jason_Martin]

I've climbed the left east couloir in spring conditions to the North Ridge twice. The couloir to the left gets up to about 55 degrees. Looking down on the one on the right, it appears to only be about 45 degrees.

 

The crux of the route was the North Ridge. This low fifth class ridge will be mostly snow right now and will have sections that exceed sixty degrees. It is recommended that you have rock gear and snow pro for this section. Expect the rock beneath the snow to be loose. Good pro on the North Ridge is difficult to find.

 

That said, this is an excellent route... But due to the looseness, not necessarily one for someone on their very first mixed climb.

 

Jason

Edited April 25, 2004 by Jason_Martin

[goatboy]

Hey, thanks much.

 

 

We went up there this morning and HOPED that our 7:30 start would give us some good snow to work with. Alas, the sun rapidly baked it to mush, and we SLOGGED up the right hand couloir. Near the top, the two couloirs merge somewhat -- we finished on the left-hand, steeper couloir which topped out at a knife-edge col dropping down to the NorthEast.

 

The ridge above looked to be low-angle slabby, bad rock (as you mentioned) with a thin layer of snow on top. Looked yucky. We had a rope, had some pitons and pickets and tri-cams, and elected to eat sandwiches and enjoy the GLORIOUS day instead of vibrating out onto the ridge.

 

Downclimbed couloir and boot skied whenever possible, only punching through to crotch level once. Back to a cold PBR in the car before we knew it.

 

Beautiful day. Too bad we didn't summit -- but surprisingly, I don't really care!

 

Thanks for the info.

Edited April 26, 2004 by goatboy

[Bill_Simpkins]

Sounds fun.

Too bad you didn't get to the summit to read the "epic" that's in the summit log.

[bobbyperu]

good skiing in those coolers...how dry are the rock routes at thepass?

[goatboy]

Hard to say -- looks like some patchy snow here and there . . . . may have more info soon!

[Mike]

We did the left side couloir early season last year and had a lot of fun up to the ridge. As J Martin notes, it is mostly snow covered on the ridge above in the early season. We had firm snow conditions, but the snow was too thin for pickets and too thick to place good rock gear. So we solo'ed it and it went just fine, but definitely a little spicy.

[mattp]

Here's the summit ridge, seen from the back side (shot from the bowl west of Cutthroat and north of Whistler):

 

 

5/2/04

[JasonG]

Anybody been up there recently?? Curious if the snow is continuous all the way down and across the creek . . . Thanks!!

[johndavidjr]

I climbed peak in September '95 & saw severe rockfall in left gully. We entered right gully near its top & crossed small patch of odd rock that was a bit like clay. Above this, one could pick a 4th class route.