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Timcb

West Face of Mt Si

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So, I assume it's been done... rock as crumbly as feta cheese?

 

any stories, anecdotes, rumors?

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There's some Pete Doorish 5.10scary route up there maybe... and DNR doesn't want people climbing there... I dunno, just vague rumors.

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Pete and Bryan did report a climb there a few years back, and somebody from the Department of Wildlife or maybe Fish and Wildlife or whatever asked them not to promote the climb because there were birds nesting on it. They have respected that request.

 

Given everything else in the area, you can imagine what the rock is like. We are probably not missing out Washington's answer to the Squamish Chief.

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Check out the stuff on the north side of I90 around exit38 to exit 42. It is similar rock. Take pitons or a bolt kit or mondo kahunas. Bring back a TR.

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Heard the problem with DNR was all the rocks the boys trundled into the locals backyards...unintentional of course. Makes me think the rock quality should make good training for Hungabee smile.gif

 

Two beautiful aretes up there though.

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I climbed the western most summit about 20 years ago (aided a 30 foot pinnacle on a couple of knifeblades and a few small nuts after a couple thousand feet of scrambling.)

Checked out the main wall on the way up and down. There is a steep gully/chasm that separates the scrambling from the wall. I noticed a corner of sorts that starts deep within the chasm and ascends to a fairly large, flat ledge. From there it looks like steep cracks and face climbing for many pitches. The rock looked reasonable.

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Pete and Bryan did report a climb there a few years back, and somebody from the Department of Wildlife or maybe Fish and Wildlife or whatever asked them not to promote the climb because there were birds nesting on it. They have respected that request.

 

Given everything else in the area, you can imagine what the rock is like. We are probably not missing out Washington's answer to the Squamish Chief.

 

I think the Doorish route was completed by the Volken route called the Si Pillar. It was reported to me that the Doorish climb had ended on or near the ledge at the base of the upper route. Andy Dappen (Couloir Magazine) was the partner on the finished route. All descent anchors were removed. There is a topo for the route in the North Bend guide shop, but you're right about the closures of the area to development. I believe the canyon ScottP mentions is called "The Black Canyon" and can be accessed by parking just across the first bridge on the moon valley road, and hiking up the overgrown road to the base of Mt Si. From there it is a short bushwack to the talus field at the base of the canyon. Expect steep talus and dirt. At the top exit right and head high. The rock was reported as compact and required pins and some hooking moves.

 

Russian Butte is probably an open option with a sporty river crossing.

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