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Early Morning on N. Sister top-out


jlag

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Anybody have any beta on the top-out on Early Morning C. on North Sister? I was in there this weekend and the top looks a bit exposed. Climb High states that it's easiest to skirt around the right side and go to the Bowling Alley. Just wondering if anybody who's done it could pass on some knowledge. Only 1-2 miles left to melt out on the road, if ya got clearance and 4X4. Thanks.

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I have climbed the north Ridge and finished the pinnicle. The rock is good. Bring slings and tri-cams if you have them. Pretty fun climbing though. it has been many years for me. Let me see if I have nay old notes and I will write back. One ta two miles on Pole creek?

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Technically speaking; skirting right to the bowling alley is not climbing EMC but I won’t give you shit for it (though someone on this page will). The EMC proper top out is generally snow with a little rock mixed in. Underneath it you will notice that depending on which line you take will dictate the steepness of the finish. When I climbed it (years ago) the left went easier (i.e. less steep). Pro is mental. Take some pickets if you are so inclined though the route isn’t that steep. Go only if it is super cold; that route is nothing more than a garbage funnel. Try to top out prior to sunrise. If you are looking for quality snow routes; check out either coulior route on stuart. Feel free to post any other Q’s you have.

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I climbed this top-out in 1994, after traversing into the summit pinnacle from the NE Shoulder. I topped out directly above EMC, I remember it being some pretty basic (but unprotected) mixed for a few moves over significant exposure.

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josh, i know that you've got better things to do than climb that thing...that is unless you're going to board down it. that would be plab. Like everyone said though, rockfall is serious stuff on that thing. i watched shit come down all of last summer, it convinced me to put it off for quite a while. i'm thinking of coming to Smiff in a couple weeks, if you're up for it.

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