bulldog

Climb: Pole Creek approach snow cond.????- Date of Climb: 6/21/2004 Trip Report: Any body been up to the N/M Sister from Pole Creek in the last few days? Wondering about the need for snowshoes. Thanks.

Climb: Pole creek???- Date of Climb: 4/13/2004 Trip Report: Anybody know anything about Pole Creek access right now?

That's pretty cool how the cows got up there. And the chinese guy? SSSSWEEEEEEET!!

Sounds like you had a great one. Long time out, what time did you get back to TL?

I have climbed the north Ridge and finished the pinnicle. The rock is good. Bring slings and tri-cams if you have them. Pretty fun climbing though. it has been many years for me. Let me see if I have nay old notes and I will write back. One ta two miles on Pole creek?

"When I was doing a bit more video footage, and a little narration as well, I remember my face was cold and my speech was a little slurred, so it must've been somewhat cold. I'd imagine it was right about freezing up there." That's the good stuff - 30mph is no little wind. Sweet solo with the vid and all.

The new Olympus Stylus 400 is Amazing in the mountains (for a digital) Lithium Battery, Highly Water resistant (the only one) very durable, workable with gloves, Very small, sharp images, E-bay for $325

Good job - supper fast, love that. Nice pic of the summit ridge. I especially like the piss spot at the lower part of the pic. Sounds fun. What was the temp.? Did you have anyway to tell?

And the other. . .

Here one is. . .

Thanks

Hay B-rock? I tried shrinking but it still is to big (over the 100000 limit) I am scanning the picture. should I scan it a different way? I have never had problems putting on other pictures.

Ya, I remember the big controversy after the heli crash on Hood a few years ago, "should climbers have to pass a state mandated liscensing before they are allowed to climb?. . .how could we put this in place?" I 'bout busted. I think a few signs at trail heads that say, "You are going to die if you go any further, don't be stupied !!!" That should cover it and make us feel really tough. Ha

Sorry, I am having problems putting the pictures on. Any suggestions??

Climb: Hood-Sandy Headwall 1937 Variation Date of Climb: 3/21/2004 Trip Report: In fear of being smacked around by fellow CCers for an incomplete TR, here it is. We (My self, another staff guy and 4 South Eugene Mountaineering students) were planning to climb the Cathedral ridge and a few other routes on the mountain. We headed up prepared for 4 days (that’s what our “little form” said anyway) as we slogged up to Illumination Saddle with our 60 lb. packs. It was warm Saturday night with the temperatures hovering around freezing. We woke at 12:01 not knowing how long the ridge would take us from this point. One of the kids caught a case of wussitise and decided to stay in the tent. That left 5 to rope up. We did a group of 3 while me and a physically strong student roped together and stayed close behind the three group. Crossing the Reed and the Yocum was fun. The Yocum was steeper and wider than I thought. It was very dark making it hard to see the Sandy side of Yocum and a way down. We searched for about 40 minutes before I had a student put me on belay with a few pickets and lower me over the edge to see the shrund. I saw a way down, so I told another student that will climb anything, to go first. He backed down the 50 deg. Slope dropping a leg in a fissure. “Hay, a fissure!!” Looks up with a worried face and continues to crank down at breakneck speed. Just as I started to head down, I saw that terrible sight of a headlamp flying down the Sandy glacier. Only this one was hooked to my student. He had been walking on great packed snow and hit some unexpected ice. The other leader in the group and the anchor man arrested the fall before to long. I looked at my rope partner and said, “Don’t fall. . .okay”. We crossed okay, stopped at the “edge” of the Sandy and unroped, ate food, took a grumper, took off the jacket and talked about what was next. We thought we had reached the ridge only to find ourselves behind a long rock band. You can see it on Page 34 in Oregon High. It looks like a butt crack right at the base of the Sandy. As we got to the top of the “butt-crack couloir “ we realized that we were not on the ridge so we decided to do the early season variation that we could barely see from out point. We trudged up knee deep powder which was weird because there was no powder anywhere else. We met a shrund that we worked through and started our traverse. We started to get more light from the headlamps on the route. We were able to see very thin ice, exposed rock and a lot of exposure with little protection available (The early season variation is now closed). As “the boys” talked that over, I traversed over to the Sandy to see what that looked like. I stood there getting showered with small ice chips. I went back frustrated at our mornings route finding but encouraged by the dropping temperature and beautiful night. I said, “How ‘bout the Sandy?” “It’s really big but I think you guys can do it. Give it a shot?” I think these guys would walk 50 miles with a 50 pound pack if I told them they could do it, so up we went. As soon as I went out on the face I get nailed with a baseball sized ice chunk right on top of the kneecap, dropping me to the snow in temporal pain. (Climb far to the right of an obvious debris shoot) The first 900 feet were pretty lame (see picture) as it was just a 45 degree climb on great snow (I guess it wasn’t that lame, just a calf burner) We finally got to the hourglass rock band. I got excited as I saw thick ice flowing through the rocks, “MIXED!!” The boys stopped there as I passed by like a kid on Christmas morning. The rock was solid and the ice was okay. The rest of the group looked for another way around as the guy I was previously roped to, climbed up hard right behind me. It makes a teacher proud to see all the boys power up with semi-confidence. I was energized for the rest of the wall. It increased in steepness and technical difficulty as the ice became thin and formed that chicken head ice formation type of ground. I was doing the best I could to not knock of those heads down on the guys. I laughed to myself as I thought “This is a good lesson on the importance of a helmet” as the ice bounced off their heads. I decided (not ever climbing the route before or having any beta. . .Should have read Ivan’s TR) to stay way right up against the Yocum. The ice seemed to be better over there and it was way steeper. We also got to climb through some little ice shoots that wielded the hard stuff. I topped out on the chair and talked to a strong attractive gal that had come up the Leut. I headed over to the ridge to eat in the sun and wait for the rest of the gang. We cranked up to the FS and across the always beautiful summit ridge. (see picture). We headed down the pig to see a guy take a HUGE fall off the hogs-back about 50’ below the Shrund. I bet the guy was doing 40mph before hitting the bottom. Rag-dolled the whole way down. The guy was a stud, he got up after “fixing” himself and hiked back up to the ridge. I talked to him at the saddle and he said, “I don’t know how to self arrest” There’s a topic for discussion, WOW. The Climb was great and I recommend it. . .to do once. It was very physically hard, with almost know places to take a rest without hanging from a tool or Ice axe or kicking hard for a shelf. The 1937 variation was great. It took us 7 ½ hours from Illumination Rock. You could do it faster if you weren’t lost. . .twice. Although the Reed and the Sandy were very fast for us walking over all the crevasses. Let me know if you have any questions. Approach Notes: The Shrund is hard to see comming off the Yocum. Carefull

That's crazy!! That is exactly what it looked like yesterday. I know one of my kids took a picture of it. I can't remember if I did. Anyway, I will throw out another entertaining TR here in a few days.

I would of liked to meet you. I was over on the Sandy. I like your posts. Long time climber, new to CC. I will posting a TR as soon as I get some pics back. Sorry about your climb did you do something else?

What route were you on to get this pick?

mmmmm. . .cascade climbers

Hay Shred, where were you?

Me training in ice water is nothing compared to 90 minutes on a stair master, 65 pound pack while curling 25lbs dumbels, going home and heeving, laughing, and doing it again the next day. . .psycho.

Shred, You bet. Red saddle is 10,000'. We were talking the whole time about the ski lines. You could ski 10 just from there. Amazing tight stuff and lots of feature. You can ski to about 4000' in the milk creek. Not a bad day!!

Sorry about that. I drove up on Friday the 12th with Luvshaker. We went up pamilia road. It had a lot of down trees and snow patches that I would assume would be gone by now (the snow patches) We moves most of the trees that we could, although there is a big one about a mile up that we were able to get my gas sucking SUV under after a few scratches and roof rack adjustments. We parked at 2666' and hiked the easy 4 miles to the milk creek ice flow. Stayed at about 4600' because we are not tough enough to go any higher. We woke at 3:00 and himed and hawed about how inadequate our helmet is to cover our tiny brains and that our nipples were to hard to climb such a huge route. After about 30 minutes up the firm drainage we climbed up the wall of the South west ridge. It was about 1200' at 40-45 deg. It was dark so you didn't get to see the impending pain. We made the ridge as the sun was comming up. After almost falling asleep hiking the manontany of this ridge we finally gained the Red Saddle and geared up for the big traverse. It looked scary. Luvshaker and I held eachother tight as we gazed accross the west face traverse. It was very solid and steep although I cried several times as I got hit in the head and shoulders with falling ice. It was about 8:00 as we crossed the face looking for a way to the top. We found what lookied to be a few ways to the top including this sweet ice shoot (see Picture) "icedro-tube" only to hit a thin headwall that given a few more weeks should be some great mixed climbing. I would say it is about 3/4 the way across facing west-north-west. I wanted to climb it but luvshaker didn't want to catch a fall with 24 points and two tools flailing around his face. So we backed down and headed around to the North. We were able to traverse up and back to the South and climb up through a rock and ice couloir just below the summit. The summit block was covered in junky ice not strong enough to hold your little sister. Luvshaker and I started haking away at the ice trying to make steps and an anchor to belay from. After about 15 minutes we went for it. Luvshaker activated his go-go-gadget- lightweight and gently stepped up as I waited to jump over the ridge if he fell. Of course we were laughing so hard because it was so fun thinking back at the ridge climb that was not fun, this made it well worth it. We made it to the top, carefully down climbed, came back accross the west face which had less ice and rock fall with the sun on it than earlier in the morning. We pretty much slid all the way back to camp, ate some rice and chicken and packed out to the environment-thrashing-go-anywhere- SUV. 14 hour day. Good thing I wore my jock.

Climb: Jefferson-Milk Creek Date of Climb: 3/13/2004 Trip Report: Just got off Jeff. Made the top if anybody is interested let me know. Approach Notes: Only could drive to 2666'. It will all be gone quick though. Only about 2-10

FS, I agree. Can anyone tell me one thing in economics that does not benifit from competition. My dad is a small business owner / sole P. He builds houses against the big cookie-cutter manufactureers. He has had to figure out how to compete with the big evil "Wal-mart" style house builders. He is doing great, in fact better than ever because he has learned how to compete - AGAINST THE BIG GUY. I have been playing basketball and climbing for 18 years. I am only 5'10" and play against 6'6". I have to learn how beat him. I have to do big guy moves in a short guy body. Work it out folks. There millions of low income people out there who love Wally-world.