Cpt.Caveman Posted June 4, 2002 Share Posted June 4, 2002 Rumor has it someone freed the Black Dike at Squish. 5.13 eh?! Hopefully there was some Peregrine Mud Falcons raining down on Jim while the climbed it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Greg_W Posted June 4, 2002 Share Posted June 4, 2002 It's about time Canada ended the oppression of lesbians of color Greg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cpt.Caveman Posted June 4, 2002 Author Share Posted June 4, 2002 First attempt was Negro Lesbian Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted June 4, 2002 Share Posted June 4, 2002 The Dyke was freed in 1993 by Dean Hart (11d) via Movin To Montana start, but the second pulled off the crux hold. Kevin McLane and Dean have a hate going on so the ascent was never in McLanes guidebooks. Local word is that Matt Maddaloni has freed all of the Dyke but hasnt linked it single push yet. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cpt.Caveman Posted June 4, 2002 Author Share Posted June 4, 2002 Tell your buddy McLane to get his act in gear then. I think I saw him climbing Peasant's Route about 3 weeks ago He was watching Crack, Jay and I get stoney and laugh at the whippers on Apron Strings. Man that is full on fun to watch Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crazyjizzy Posted June 4, 2002 Share Posted June 4, 2002 Dru, No one can claim to free the Dyke untill they free the first BIG roof. Deano didn't do it, so he hasn't freed it. And I hope no one adds bolts to it. I was as scared following it as Rat was leading it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted June 4, 2002 Share Posted June 4, 2002 quote: Originally posted by crazyjz: Dru, No one can claim to free the Dyke untill they free the first BIG roof. Deano didn't do it, so he hasn't freed it. And I hope no one adds bolts to it. I was as scared following it as Rat was leading it. Bogus rationale. Have you ever tried to lead the "Harting Slot"? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cpt.Caveman Posted June 4, 2002 Author Share Posted June 4, 2002 How about them Uber Hubers. I bet they can free that shit Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crazyjizzy Posted June 4, 2002 Share Posted June 4, 2002 Dru, I disagree. And WTF is the Harting Slot, and how does it affect the fact that Dean didn't climb the big roof. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cpt.Caveman Posted June 4, 2002 Author Share Posted June 4, 2002 Maybe Dru is confused with Tonya Harding's slot since she was in the news yesterday Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DPS Posted June 4, 2002 Share Posted June 4, 2002 quote: Maybe Dru is confused with Tonya Harding's slot since she was in the news yesterday Now THAT was funny! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter_Puget Posted June 4, 2002 Share Posted June 4, 2002 Crazy is right. To not climb such a large feature on a route is clearly not freeing it. It is more obvious if you reverse the portion of the climb that was not free. By your (Dru) rational Lynn Hill freed "Tribal Rights." Anyone with half a brain would see the goofiness in that claim but you are making the same claim whit regard to the Black Dike. This of course in no way takes away from the free climbing that was done. With regard to the unfreed roof: I say hey if it can be free with bolts, bolt it. PP Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
erik Posted June 4, 2002 Share Posted June 4, 2002 quote: Originally posted by Peter Puget: With regard to the unfreed roof: I say hey if it can be free with bolts, bolt it. PP so after you bolt that thing and free it. and i come by and free it with gear. you going to remove the bolts or am i???? and i think it is a chimmeny they are talking bout'!! one of my fav! features!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted June 4, 2002 Share Posted June 4, 2002 quote: Originally posted by erik: quote:Originally posted by Peter Puget: With regard to the unfreed roof: I say hey if it can be free with bolts, bolt it. PP so after you bolt that thing and free it. and i come by and free it with gear. you going to remove the bolts or am i???? and i think it is a chimmeny they are talking bout'!! one of my fav! features!!! Who knows maybe Maddaloni did the roof? BUT I still call Dean Hart & Jon Jones's ascent the first free. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter_Puget Posted June 4, 2002 Share Posted June 4, 2002 Erik - You crack me up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
richard_noggin Posted June 4, 2002 Share Posted June 4, 2002 By Erica so after you bolt that thing and free it. and i come by and free it with gear. you going to remove the bolts or am i???? So has everone caught that bost??? Dude now you have to back it up!! I would even drag my lame ass up to Drulville to see those epic whippers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted June 5, 2002 Share Posted June 5, 2002 The Harting slot is the permanently-soaking wet, no-pro chimney one must climb to go from Movin to Montana to the black Dyke above the big roof. I totally diasagree with the idea one must climb big roof to have freed Black dyke. By that criteria Lynn Hill did not climb the Nose Free since she used the chipped Jardine traverse to bypass a bolt ladder & pendulum on the original Nose line. Or Grand Wall does not go free because every move of the Bolt Ladder on the lower slabs has not yet been done free, and Cosgrove avoided the 'fixed rope' pitch with a 13b from the top of Underfling to Perrys. Yeah I bet Alex and Tomas would do the deed if they came to town. They would probably prefer to work on something like Up From The Skies though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.