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TR: Redmond VW 3/31/04


Alex

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After almost a whole week! of not getting any climbing in whatsoever, I left work at 6:30 and headed over.

 

Secretly, I was anxiety-ridden, dreading my performance after a week away. I would be relegated to V0-s, my eyes downcast, dejected and rejected. All the little 16-year old-send-bots would laugh at me silently. (Not that they don't already.) People I normally talk to would avoid me and make up excuses to leave the vicinity. The chix would disapprove. I feared that after 20 minutes, my ego would be so utterly whupped that I would slink out of the gym, failing to collect my membership card for fear of being noticed at all.

 

I walked in, and saw a compatriot streaching. But I was eager to climb, so instead of streaching, did the "new" traverse a few times. Yup, I was weak. Worthless and weak, as my boss says all the time. Pumped already, the session might as well be over.

 

Contemplating the already-anticipated early exit from gym, I decided to try one problem that I had flailed and failed on repeatedly the last time I was in, the pink V2 under the roof. It starts with 2 campus moves. I got on it, and without thinking, flowed through the moves without much perceived effort and .. conquered the covetted problem!

 

Fluke, thought I. However, with a success under my belt it was hardly appropriate to leave now; people were undoubtedly watching, I had to perform for both my many admirers and enemies. So, emboldend by the sweet stench of success, I jumped on a new V4 I had never tried before. I fucked up the sequence, but stuck on and with it, retreated, figured it out on the wall, stayed in balance, and finally was looking at the last dyno. In the background I kept hearing .. "yeah man! c'mon! it's a jug! yeah thats it! now send!" On the final shake-out-hold I took a quick peek over my shoulder to see what the ruckus was all about, expecting legions of teeny-boppers cheering <resident hardman and routesetter> whilst on some some sick sloper. No, it was one of those 16-year-old send-bots, and he was looking right at me!! Under pressure to succeed now, I failed miserably and missed the dyno, trying only half-heartedly. It looked arm-wrenching anyway, yeah, arm-wrenching!

 

At this point the usual suspects filtered in, and the chix multiplied. The next 2 hours a blur, but around 8:45 I was finally out of gas, and tired too. My mission accomplished, my peers throuroughly impressed, it was time to head home and eat 800 calories of tasteless protein.

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