Jake Posted March 30, 2004 Posted March 30, 2004 How much success have you had with Beal ropes? Never had one before but I'm considering picking up a 10.2 line now. I did a search here and Beal ropes seemed to get a pretty favorable review, but waddya think? Do they handle well, how is the wear? Quote
cracked Posted March 30, 2004 Posted March 30, 2004 I recently used a new 10.2 pink Beal and it was horrible...nice hand, but so slick it felt like an 8mm through my belay device. Slick enough that I couldn't get a smooth lower with a Grigri. Stay far, far away from a 10.2 pink Beal. Quote
John Frieh Posted March 30, 2004 Posted March 30, 2004 No experience with the 10.2... have a pair of 8.1 70s... love them. As far as getting a smooth lower... that is generally a function of the user/device choice; not the rope. I would suggest making a list of what characteristics of a rope are most important to you and let that guide your decision... impact force, gms/meter, sharp edge rating, etc. Quote
cracked Posted March 30, 2004 Posted March 30, 2004 Not true, the rope was way slicker than my Galaxy or Flash using an ATC, figure 8, or Grigri. It's not about a smoother lower, it's about greater friction. I'd be afraid of taking a whip on this rope, it's so slick I question if my belayer could hold me. Quote
Jake Posted March 30, 2004 Author Posted March 30, 2004 My Flash has been great - pretty ideal in terms of grippyness I would say, but you're right questioning slipperyness. I was being lowered once once and the rope really started to whiz out cause my buddy with his sweaty hands couldn't hang onto a new slippery rope. Quote
RuMR Posted March 30, 2004 Posted March 30, 2004 I like them...i have 9.4 stinger that is pretty decent... Â Not sure what paul is talking about w/ regards to lowering...i haven't had any problems w/ them... Â They do "black" pretty bad though... Quote
Ryan Posted March 30, 2004 Posted March 30, 2004 NOLSe- do you have the Beal Ice Line? I'm considering getting it for a glacier/alpine rope. Also- anyone have any experience with the Beal Cobra (8.6mm)? Quote
Fromage Posted March 30, 2004 Posted March 30, 2004 I have a pair of 8.1 ice lines, a 10.3, and have used Cobras in the past. Love them all. Occasionally get a little kinky, but have had no troubles lowering (ATC, gri gri, reverso). For their thickness, or lack thereof, the ice lines have been a really durable set of ropes. Same with the 10.3. I would definitely buy Beals again. Quote
erik Posted March 30, 2004 Posted March 30, 2004 i felt that the beal rope that i had wore out pretty fast. tho now a days i buy ropes almost soley on price unless i need it for a specific use. Quote
matt_m Posted March 30, 2004 Posted March 30, 2004 I've got the ice lines (8.1) 9.7mm and just ordered a 10.5mm top gun. With their new super coating the durability issues are supposed to be fixed. Beal ropes are my choice for a number of reasons. First and most importantly - Low impact forces. I look at these before I look at anything else on a rope. 2nd - Cut resistance - even the 9.7 passes the UIAA test I think. (Note the UIAA sharp edge test is not as drastic as the one Edelweiss puts their Stratos through - Stratos is still the edge king) Black mark in the middle - easy to spot and doesn't cost me $30 like a bi-color. Hand is great - beals are softer ropes so buy one thickness thicker if you're not used to them - ie - looking at the 9.7 go with the 10.2 flyer and you'll be happy  for info of the scientific sort - check out Beal Impact Forces Quote
RuMR Posted March 30, 2004 Posted March 30, 2004 i'm w/ erik on this one...i buy the length of rope i need at the best price i can find...diameter? who cares! Brand, who cares! Quote
Squid Posted March 30, 2004 Posted March 30, 2004 I've used the 8.1 Ice Lines and loved them, but I've also seen their single ropes get trashed in a very short period of time. If you do a lot of sport climbing, or intend to regularly take whippers, I'd stay away from Beal because their durability is lousy. Quote
Thrill Posted March 30, 2004 Posted March 30, 2004 I use the 10.2 Beal.. I swear by it and my friends that have been lucky to climb on it loved it so much I got them one for birthdays. it's a light, rope that clips well and feels great.. my wife belay's me on the lead. I've taken a fall and if she could hold me, well then I dont know why anyone else would have a problem. I use a reverso with it. great smooth ride. it does blacken but what roped doesnt? Quote
Ryan Posted March 30, 2004 Posted March 30, 2004 Alright- what would you all recommend then for ice climbing- the Ice Line or the Cobra? Quote
Fromage Posted March 30, 2004 Posted March 30, 2004 Ice Line for sure. The sheaths are woven with single pic construction, which makes the rope somewhat more water resistant than double pic weave like the Cobras (think microfiber nylon vs cordura). After six seasons of use my ice lines still stay reasonably dry and are not that fuzzy. Â Quote
Squid Posted March 31, 2004 Posted March 31, 2004 ..and the Ice Lines taste better when you get a good bite of 'em. Quote
Ryan Posted March 31, 2004 Posted March 31, 2004 Alright, cool...what diameter cordelette would you use for prussiking on an Ice Line? I'd be using the rope for glacier travel...would 5 be effective? 6 mil seems like it might be too big. Quote
cracked Posted March 31, 2004 Posted March 31, 2004 I'm using soft 5mm on a 8.1 Mammut as my glacier setup. Quote
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