sketchfest Posted March 16, 2004 Share Posted March 16, 2004 (edited) I'm gonna be in Eugene this weekend to take my son to a climbing comp, while he's climbing I thought I might try and get some in myself. How far is it to the columns from the Crux and is anybody thinking about climbing there on Saturday? Oh and does anybody know/have a guide for that area? Edited March 16, 2004 by sketchfest Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
texplorer Posted March 16, 2004 Share Posted March 16, 2004 The columns is like 5 blocks from the crux. You can actually see them from the crux I think. It's pretty small so you'll be able to size up the cracks quickly. Everything is topropable (hike around to the top). My favs are fat crack 5.7-8 (the obvious wider crack), Limp Dick .10b (farthest to the right before the chainlink fence) and the chimney. It's a great place to take budding climbers, leaders, or just spend some time. If the weather's nice expect a crowd though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fejas Posted March 16, 2004 Share Posted March 16, 2004 Climbing southwestern oregon has a section on the columns... Fat crack There will be a ton O peeps there on a saturday afternoon... Good luck your son! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sketchfest Posted March 16, 2004 Author Share Posted March 16, 2004 Sooo, if I was gonna lead something out there, what size rack should I bring? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fejas Posted March 16, 2004 Share Posted March 16, 2004 I've led some of the cracks there with a set of BD hexs... you only really need to put in three or four peices based on the hieght of the climbs... I haven't led any thing at the columns in two years, the few times I have climb there since, where on self bely... I'll look to see what numbers of the hexs i used, it been awile and I have them rote down at home... maybe jkruegr, bunglehead, or Tex would have some insight on this... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jkrueger Posted March 16, 2004 Share Posted March 16, 2004 Hey Sketch! Passive and/or active pro in the small to medium size range should get you through. The basalt cracks provide many options for gear and the climbs are relatively short (though slimy in the sun). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
texplorer Posted March 16, 2004 Share Posted March 16, 2004 pro to 3 inches for fat crack, pro to 2.5 for limp dick, and small stuff for eveything else. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sketchfest Posted March 16, 2004 Author Share Posted March 16, 2004 sshhweeet!! Hi jk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cracked Posted March 16, 2004 Share Posted March 16, 2004 The old guidebook puts Limpdick at 11b, though I agree that once you've got it wired it's pretty easy. A set of cams and a set of nuts should cover pretty much anything. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skyclimb Posted March 16, 2004 Share Posted March 16, 2004 yeah, i have found on the easier cracks, micro-cams helped a lot. The cracks can be done on passive gear easily as well, but it takes a creative mind. Have fun Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
texplorer Posted March 16, 2004 Share Posted March 16, 2004 cracked, are you sure limp dick is .11b? I think you might be thinking of satisfaction which feels more .11b-ish. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jkrueger Posted March 16, 2004 Share Posted March 16, 2004 Speaking of Satisfaction ... I noticed there is a loose block at the top, but it's not so loose that I could set if free quite yet. So, be careful, as I'm sure it will be coming down soon ... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sketchfest Posted March 16, 2004 Author Share Posted March 16, 2004 Ok, so my partner bailed for the planned wicked hardcore columns trip. Anybody planning on climbing out there on Saturday...say mid-morning-ish?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cracked Posted March 17, 2004 Share Posted March 17, 2004 cracked, are you sure limp dick is .11b? I think you might be thinking of satisfaction which feels more .11b-ish. According to the Smith-hardman authored guidebook (I think Chris Jones wrote it, if I remember correctly), Limpdick is 11b and Satisfaction is 12a. I've led limpdick and almost toproped Satisfaction, so maybe you're right. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shapp Posted March 18, 2004 Share Posted March 18, 2004 No pro needed, all the routes are high ball problems, too bad the city won't install a 5 foot thick crash pad at the base. Howver, on a sunny saturday all the newbies out there could just give you one giant group spot! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sk Posted March 19, 2004 Share Posted March 19, 2004 Hey I am gunna be out there with my kiddos and some friends at arround 10:30. I will be the noisy blonde with 2 kids introduce yourself to me PLEASE Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sk Posted March 19, 2004 Share Posted March 19, 2004 cracked, are you sure limp dick is .11b? I think you might be thinking of satisfaction which feels more .11b-ish. According to the Smith-hardman authored guidebook (I think Chris Jones wrote it, if I remember correctly), Limpdick is 11b and Satisfaction is 12a. I've led limpdick and almost toproped Satisfaction, so maybe you're right. limp dick is a very short .10b at best. I have toproped it clean.,there is no way in hell it is an .11 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sketchfest Posted March 19, 2004 Author Share Posted March 19, 2004 Hey I am gunna be out there with my kiddos and some friends at arround 10:30. I will be the noisy blonde with 2 kids introduce yourself to me PLEASE We actually met once before at the smiffy luv-fest, but I'll prolly wander over about 11 once I get Craig checked in at the comp. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fejas Posted March 19, 2004 Share Posted March 19, 2004 cracked, are you sure limp dick is .11b? I think you might be thinking of satisfaction which feels more .11b-ish. According to the Smith-hardman authored guidebook (I think Chris Jones wrote it, if I remember correctly), Limpdick is 11b and Satisfaction is 12a. I've led limpdick and almost toproped Satisfaction, so maybe you're right. limp dick is a very short .10b at best. I have toproped it clean.,there is no way in hell it is an .11 Limpdick **** 5.10b/c requires finger to hand jams using feet on immediate face. Satisfaction is 11a if you use outside holds, but 12 if you jam the crack... was stuck in my head so I had to look it up... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sk Posted March 19, 2004 Share Posted March 19, 2004 Hey I am gunna be out there with my kiddos and some friends at arround 10:30. I will be the noisy blonde with 2 kids introduce yourself to me PLEASE We actually met once before at the smiffy luv-fest, but I'll prolly wander over about 11 once I get Craig checked in at the comp. I met so many people that weekend I couldn't have picked myself out of a line up I will see you tomorrow and thank you FEEJEE I knew I couldn't climb an .11 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
willstrickland Posted March 19, 2004 Share Posted March 19, 2004 limp dick is very short Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sk Posted March 19, 2004 Share Posted March 19, 2004 limp dick is very short well it is Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fejas Posted March 19, 2004 Share Posted March 19, 2004 Whats even more disturbing is the unusual number of males in the Eugene area that climb the very short limp dick... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sk Posted March 20, 2004 Share Posted March 20, 2004 I totaly forgot that I have to go get my taxes done at 10, but I am taking my gear and will be there ASAP after the H&R block guy does my taxes.... I am sorry but I should be there arround 11:30 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sk Posted March 22, 2004 Share Posted March 22, 2004 I was there climbed 5 pitches I was the only blonde with kids, where were you sketchfest??? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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