thelawgoddess Posted February 23, 2004 Share Posted February 23, 2004 yeah, right. you probably weigh as much as me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RuMR Posted February 23, 2004 Share Posted February 23, 2004 been stuffing my face sitting on my ass, swearing at my situation... Prolly a good 12-15 pounds to heavy right now... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dylan_taylor Posted February 24, 2004 Share Posted February 24, 2004 honestly, it just really doesn't matter which knot you use...knot failure is extremely rare and is (i'm throwing a stat out there, but i don't really know) almost always due to a crappily tied knot... Indeed, knot failure is unrealistic in normal climbing scenarios. A recent study showed that poorly dressed knots are not significantly weaker than well dressed knots (I'll try and find a link, but the info came from the AMGA). In fact, an unfinished figure 8 (the tail was not brought back through the side of the 8 away from the climber) failed rather close to the same force that a properly tied figure 8 did. Thus, when you tie your knot correctly, you are backing it up - no dinky little backup knot needed. I'm not much of a sport climber, but I've found that when I take a significant fall on a figure 8 knot, it is still plenty easy enough to untie if it is dressed properly. Also, fig 8's are easy for your partner to check. They are symmetrical, whereas bowlines look a bit different when you flip the knot over. However, Double bowlines shine when used for taking dozens of little, harsh sporto falls on a soft rope. Whatever - if you can't tie a knot tie a lot. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cpt.Caveman Posted February 24, 2004 Share Posted February 24, 2004 Both are fine. The figger8 is stronger by testing yet it unties easier. The bowline is weaker and unties\or does not really like to untie if done correctly. Tie in with either no problem. Pretty safe with either imho. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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