goatboy Posted February 11, 2004 Share Posted February 11, 2004 Climb: Broughton Bluff-Gandalf's Grip (5.9+) (Plus what, I want to know?) Date of Climb: 2/10/2004 Trip Report: Climbed this nice three pitch line yesterday at Broughton on a clear, warm day. I had never been on it before, but thought it would be well within my ability. I found it to be remarkably steep and strenuous for the rating! Encountered 2 bats angrily screeching at me on the first pitch. It was unnerving, as I was reluctant to stuff my chilly fingers into the crack, but had no choice. I fell off (right above the last bolt) leading the first pitch after mis-reading the sequence and pumping out. The proper sequence is: Grab the huge handholds and pull up. Instead, I grabbed other things and fell down. I also casted off on the third pitch, a soaking wet offwidth. Both places where I fell, it was due to me missing some obvious holds -- I guess I was off that day. I highly recommend the route -- it was shady and the rock was cold, but the weather is sweet and warm enough to climb it in a t shirt, which we did. From the top, there is a great view of Mt Jefferson to the south. Gear Notes: Small stoppers and aliens were helpful Should have had: Shoes to walk off with on muddy trail Approach Notes: muddy and full of kids and dogs Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
b-rock Posted February 11, 2004 Share Posted February 11, 2004 Awesome climb. That first pitch is a bit stiff Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MtnHigh Posted February 12, 2004 Share Posted February 12, 2004 The left traversing section near the end of pitch 1 is a bit tricky. A solid .9 The remaining pitches are little easier. Try it in the summer when the sun is on it and you'll enjoy it even more. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scratchandsniff Posted February 12, 2004 Share Posted February 12, 2004 That last pitch must have been stiff wet. Did you feel you had good pro ? I remember that as a wide pitch, and not easy dry. You? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
goatboy Posted February 12, 2004 Author Share Posted February 12, 2004 Yeah, very good pro -- bomber camalots up to # 3. I can say the pro was bomber with certainty, as I did in fact fall onto it! The climbing itself was rather challenging, however, given the slick wet rock. I also was attacking the crack head on (it overhangs slightly) rather than back stepping to a big, obvious foothold (essentially defeating the overhang by stemming backwards). I found the obvious foothold and climbed it more easily after falling off the first time. There is also a fixed chain anchor up there near the top of the offwidth, which I was able to clip as pro before topping out and walking off. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scratchandsniff Posted February 12, 2004 Share Posted February 12, 2004 There is also a fixed chain anchor up there near the top of the offwidth, which I was able to clip as pro before topping out and walking off. No kidding, I gotta get out more. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crackman Posted February 12, 2004 Share Posted February 12, 2004 I love that climb and never get tired of it!!! It will always be special, as my first wipper on lead was on that offwidth, over twenty years ago now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
texplorer Posted February 12, 2004 Share Posted February 12, 2004 That is a great climb. I believe it was one of my first multi-pitch trad routes and Crackman was my partner. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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