[TR] Broughton Bluff- Gandalf's Grip (5.9+) (Plus what, I want to know?) 2/10/2004

[goatboy]

Climb: Broughton Bluff-Gandalf's Grip (5.9+) (Plus what, I want to know?)

 

Date of Climb: 2/10/2004

 

Trip Report:

Climbed this nice three pitch line yesterday at Broughton on a clear, warm day.

 

I had never been on it before, but thought it would be well within my ability. I found it to be remarkably steep and strenuous for the rating!

 

Encountered 2 bats angrily screeching at me on the first pitch. It was unnerving, as I was reluctant to stuff my chilly fingers into the crack, but had no choice.

 

I fell off (right above the last bolt) leading the first pitch after mis-reading the sequence and pumping out. The proper sequence is: Grab the huge handholds and pull up. Instead, I grabbed other things and fell down.

 

I also casted off on the third pitch, a soaking wet offwidth.

 

Both places where I fell, it was due to me missing some obvious holds -- I guess I was off that day.

 

I highly recommend the route -- it was shady and the rock was cold, but the weather is sweet and warm enough to climb it in a t shirt, which we did.

 

From the top, there is a great view of Mt Jefferson to the south.

 

Gear Notes:

Small stoppers and aliens were helpful

 

Should have had: Shoes to walk off with on muddy trail

 

Approach Notes:

muddy and full of kids and dogs

[b-rock]

Awesome climb. That first pitch is a bit stiff

[MtnHigh]

The left traversing section near the end of pitch 1 is a bit tricky. A solid .9 The remaining pitches are little easier. Try it in the summer when the sun is on it and you'll enjoy it even more.

[scratchandsniff]

That last pitch must have been stiff wet. Did you feel you had good pro ? I remember that as a wide pitch, and not easy dry. You?

[goatboy]

Yeah, very good pro -- bomber camalots up to # 3. I can say the pro was bomber with certainty, as I did in fact fall onto it!

 

The climbing itself was rather challenging, however, given the slick wet rock. I also was attacking the crack head on (it overhangs slightly) rather than back stepping to a big, obvious foothold (essentially defeating the overhang by stemming backwards). I found the obvious foothold and climbed it more easily after falling off the first time.

 

There is also a fixed chain anchor up there near the top of the offwidth, which I was able to clip as pro before topping out and walking off.

[scratchandsniff]

There is also a fixed chain anchor up there near the top of the offwidth, which I was able to clip as pro before topping out and walking off.

 

No kidding, I gotta get out more.

[Crackman]

I love that climb and never get tired of it!!! It will always be special, as my first wipper on lead was on that offwidth, over twenty years ago now.

[texplorer]

That is a great climb. I believe it was one of my first multi-pitch trad routes and Crackman was my partner.