Dru Posted February 2, 2004 Posted February 2, 2004 Climb: Lillooet-Reynolds Hotel Pub Club Date of Climb: 2/1/2004 Trip Report: So Steve and I were gonna climb in the Canyon but too much fresheez fell (a foot and a half fell on Friday) so we ended up in Lillooet with the riffraff. Hiked into Texas Creek via the posthole method and everything was buried under fresh avvy cones so we drove up the Bridge and simul-soloed Hell Creek falls LHS then didnt want to downclimb so invented a new walk off method via "alpine 3rd class obvious gully" type scrambling Back to the Mile -0 where there were a bunch of friends cc and non including Rat, Danimal, Paco, Fern, Specialed, Ken4wd, jja, TimL, and non cc people Kai, Jer, Jay, Jay, and Matt plus some ppl from PDX who pretended they had never heard of Iain Morris Went to the Reynolds Hotel pub for and saw Canucks down Capitals 6-1 The Lillooet natives were very friendly. They even bought us a pitcher after we played some Hank Williams and Emminem on the jukebox. If anybody ever wants to check out the Seton Lake climbs a guy named Percy Tom has a little train he runs to Seton Portage and back every day you can scope them out from. Percy is a guy. Much pool was played and Steve sharked the lot of us. Only the fact he was teamed with Pete SpecialEd kept him from totally wiping the floor with me and Ken4onthefloor. Today I had a flat tire so steve and I jaunted up Honeyman along with Jer Jay Jay & Matt who were being flimed by a CBC camera crew!! until the battery froze on the video also the PDX ers sent before us but tried to do the walkoff and were never seen again There is a LOT of new snow. WI2 is basically buried and there is high avvy hazard on anything in a gully. Heads up for the next wk until it settles. It should feed some fat ice growth. Gear Notes: beer, burgers, screws, snowshoes would have been nice. Approach Notes: postholes Quote
Gary_Yngve Posted February 2, 2004 Posted February 2, 2004 Dru - I second that on the hockey game. So much intensity! We were at Mile -0 as well. We wandered around Marble Canyon, Honeyman, and the Rambles and didn't find snowshoes necessary. Though we did repeatedly fall on our asses from the frozen dirt or icy rocks covered by two feet of powder. In general, things seemed pretty fat, though wet. Seems like the ice warmed up, and then all the snow fell, insulating the ice? We're pretty conservative (and I'm a newbie), so we weren't that comfortable with the protection available on the rotten ice. Man, was everything wet! Frozen ropes, gloves, biners, slings... And cold enough for that lovely sticking feeling when you'd touch metal... And thanks to the guys who gave our dumb asses a quick tow! Quote
specialed Posted February 2, 2004 Posted February 2, 2004 Reynolds pub club was a good time, but so was the afterhours sesh with the local hoods and their fat sack of After a groggy start on Sunday, Closet Secrets at thin WI4, with some mixed moves, was one of the coolest ice climbs I've done. To the right of Closet Secrets, the dubious overhanging testpiece, Shreddie, has been tamed by a bolt ladder that passes the major difficulties on the right. All in all, glad I finally got to climb around Lilloett. It was defenitly worth the 5 hr. drive. Quote
ken4ord Posted February 2, 2004 Posted February 2, 2004 Climb: Lillooet-Reynolds Hotel Pub Club Date of Climb: 1/31-2/1/2004 Trip Report: Well our adventure started by leaving Seattle at 5:00 am and rolling into Sumas at 7:00 am. SpecialEd, Paco and myself stopped at the Tim Hortons to pick up a fourth, Fern. We rolled in to find Fern passed out in the corner window with gear piled all around her, what a sight, wish we had the camera out. After getting a few munchies we hit the road and headed to Frasser Canyon. The ice wasn't in so we kept heading north, eventually settling for a climb East of Litton, help me out you guys I can't remember the name. It was a nice 3-3+ single pitch route. SpecialEd headed up first, Paco pink-pointed the route with the screws that SpecialEd placed, at one point there was so many screws with draws hanging off the route that it looked like a grid bolted sporto area. With all the people that were there we all managed three lines up the flow. I ended climbing side-by-side with this one guy from Bellingham. Two guys from Ecudor were the last to show up, felt bad for the leader as it seemed he took most of the shelling that was going on that day. Well after that we head to the Mile-o-Motel and to get food. As Dru mentioned, everybody and there mama was up there. A good time to be had. Dinner, , ,and more made pool interesting. After a bit everybody left except Paco and myself, someboday had to pick up the slack and finish off that pitcher that Percy had bought us. As we were playing some pool things started getting interesting at Reynolds. A crew of younger locals showed up all f-up and looking to get shittier. Ray-Ray and his buddy KC were going to set me up with some kind BC after more pool I was beginning to wonder if I was going to get some , then some others volunteered, well things got a little heated for a second and SpecialEd roled back with my car. I figured nothing was going to happen except for maybe a fight, so I wanted out of there, but eventually things settled down and we were on our way. We left the bar with Ray-Ray and KC and to see what 20 can get, I must say I was very impressed. Then it was off to the Mile-o-motel to party. Well after several more and lots of midnight rolled around and it was time to get some sleep for tomorrow. Had Fern set the alarm for 6, thank gawd she forgot to turn it on. The next morning we woke up around 8, all of us seemed to be moving a little slow, understandbly so. Pack up talked to Dru and Steve a little, poor bastards woke to a flat tire in the morning, hopefully you guys were still able to get out. Got some breakie over a Reynolds and we were off to the Rambles. Pulled into the parking lot, actually off to the side of the road and got suited up. We decided to do the climb to the left of Shreddie. Rope-gun SpecialEd made quick work on the first thin interesting pitch and then belayed me up. After a little looking at the second decided to give it a go, it didn't look that bad. It was fun, had work for placements cause there was so much shite on the pitch, but it went ok. Really glad I got on it, really needing to get some mileage leading in this season. SpecialEd and I rapped out of there to go to work on getting rid of the evidence, while Paco and Fern were climbing the route. After some diddle-daddling around, we glissadaed practically right down to the car, an awesome ride down. Back at the car the sun was out, so we sat out and getting rid of more evidence and soaking up the rays of the sun. Forgot how long it had been since I had seen it, it felt so good. We kept figuring that any moment Fern and Paco would coming down our glissade track. Several later the sun dipped below the ridge, SpecialEd and I scrammbled to get the yard sale back inside the car and start cranking the heat. Hmm, an hour had passed, the wtf was going on were those guys having epic, no they couldn't be, could they?.?. Eventually Fern came out of the woods, pretty funny watching Fern trying to make her way out to the road, felt like a real gaper sitting in a heated vehicle watching someone wallow through the snow, well for Fern the snow was about armpit deep. Then Paco was out shortly after. After getting the vehicle pack we were off, back home. Rolled into Seattle around 10 pm after dropping Fern off Timmay Hortons, getting rid of the last of the evidence in Sumas. Great trip you guys, I fun time. Until next time. Quote
specialed Posted February 2, 2004 Posted February 2, 2004 Furthermore: Dru drinks pickled juice. Quote
Dru Posted February 2, 2004 Author Posted February 2, 2004 Furthermore the most important point. The new bartender at the Reynolds is named Michelle. She just moved from Squamish to Lillooet 2 weeks ago, doesnt have a boyfriend, and finds Lillooet kinda boring and small town She likes ice climbers cause they are easier to serve than the usual drunks. Even if they do order pickled horsecock shooters Quote
michaeljosephnozel Posted February 2, 2004 Posted February 2, 2004 Damn, Dru, that was me and a buddy from Portland above you on Honeyman yesterday. Would have hung out for a bit at the top, but we have an 18-hour round-trip drive for a weekend in Lillooet, so it pretty much boils down to driving, climbing, sleeping, and driving. Climbed at Marble Canyon on Saturday--remarkably wet. Ropes were frozen cables by the top of Icy BC p2, and we were pretty soaked. (It was my buddy's first ice trip, and it was an "eye opener" Saturday, particularily experiencing the freeze/thaw cycle in his hands). Unbelievable that Honeyman was drier than MC, which made for a great second day for him, though, as he is a quick learner. Perhaps we'll cross paths again this winter . . . . Quote
Dru Posted February 2, 2004 Author Posted February 2, 2004 I can't believe your buddy claimed he'd never heard of Iain! I could tell he was worked when he fell off Honeyman p1 with his pack on. How was the walk off anyway? Quote
michaeljosephnozel Posted February 2, 2004 Posted February 2, 2004 Walkoff was pretty straight forward, following the old fire access road. We were not absolutely certain whether we were going to follow the access road all the way, or just bash downhill. When it felt like we had gone far enough, we bashed downhill, and came right out onto Hunt Road, then walked to my Suburban parked just outside Hunt Road. Quote
Don_Serl Posted February 3, 2004 Posted February 3, 2004 i don't usually "spray" but in this context i gotta pass along a GREAT reynolds story: a few of us were sipping after climbing a few weeks back, and i wandered into the men's room to make room for more liquid. now the urinal in the bar in the reynolds is a long metal trough, eh, about maybe 2 feet off the ground, a dozen feet long, and say 18 inches deep. as i come in the door, there's a young local native guy kinda slumped against the wall at the far end of the urinal, on his feet and with his equipment still in use, but not completely aware. my arrival disturbs him, his head snaps up, he gives me a glance and gives himeself a shake, then says, "jeez, i just about fell asleep there." "christ, you're pretty talented", says i, "i thought only horses could sleep standing up". he pauses a second, doesn't reaaly respond to this, then comes back with, "lucky the water was cold!" god, i laughed. almost pissed myself... enjoy the upcoming gathering... Quote
layton Posted February 3, 2004 Posted February 3, 2004 You did piss yourself, Don! Don't you remember??? You were pretty loaded. Quote
iain Posted February 3, 2004 Posted February 3, 2004 I can't believe your buddy claimed he'd never heard of Iain! hey don't pretend I don't read these reports. I see my aliases are working well, thank you witness protection program Quote
jja Posted February 3, 2004 Posted February 3, 2004 What a cool weekend, just got back now. After a neurotic fit on friday afternoon worrying whether the roads would be open or not, me and timL got a 5am start on Saturday. Pulled into town a little before noon, and went and did honeyman falls. Being a lightweight I bailed early on the debauchery at the reynolds on Saturday night. Sunday was one of those days. Starts with: what do you want to do?, I dunno what do you want to do?, I could do whatever, want to go into the bridge? ... this kind of day inevitably leads to MC. Left MC early and went and scoped stuff out in bridge river and the approach to synchro. We decided we'd do the drop down to the road approach and cross the river. Left the car Monday at 6:45 and followed a boot track down to the river, crossing on a log. (possible to jump ice islands too, did this on the return) Got to the first bit of ice at 8:20. What a great climb this is!! We had really good conditions. The climb was wet only in easily avoidable spots. The ice was mostly refrozen sun baked stuff. Not bad really, had to dig for pro in spots. I haven't done a lot in lillooet, but so far this is for sure the best. Seems like the phantom sheep pornographer struck the unsuspecting again: The "ramp" pitch of synchro: Near the top of the upper tier of synchro: Quote
TimL Posted February 3, 2004 Posted February 3, 2004 JJA a friggin animal Great peps and great routes in Lillooet this weekend! Quote
TimL Posted February 3, 2004 Posted February 3, 2004 JJA a friggin animal Great peps and great routes in Lillooet this weekend! Quote
Paco Posted February 4, 2004 Posted February 4, 2004 I posted a few pics from the weekend in the gallery. Pic 1 Pic 2 Pic 3 Quote
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