Dru Posted February 18, 2004 Author Share Posted February 18, 2004 this was not hard thanks jk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dr_Flash_Amazing Posted February 20, 2004 Share Posted February 20, 2004 Oh, futch! How could DFA forget the forgettable (at least, you want to forget it) Cool Ranch Flavor? It hurts to fail to onsight a route that should be a gimme, especially when the route sucks to boot. Hardest 5.11 at Smith or something. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
goatboy Posted January 5, 2006 Share Posted January 5, 2006 I thought meatgrinder was easy for 5.10, assuming you know how to jam... Â Speaking of jam, how about some j tree climbs: Â 5.6 - leapin leanna (desperate for the grade, with huge groundfall right off the bat) Â 5.7 - Double Cross (aka "pumpkin head" to the locals - ever notice the bloodstains at the base of this thing?) Â 5.9 - Touch and Go (slick and steep!) Â 10a - The EXORCIST Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Drederek Posted January 5, 2006 Share Posted January 5, 2006 8 s face jello tower 9 p1 davis -holland when drippy 9+ Inca Road 10a sunblessed p2 10b split pillar & BBQ (don't wuss to the crack at top) 10c p5 of cloud tower (RR) 10d gangsters 11a psychopath 11a/b Imperial Master 11b p6(?) of swim (the one after the 10b) 11d rainy day woman (L Si) unless it actually is 12a Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted January 5, 2006 Author Share Posted January 5, 2006 Sunblessed p2 is soft, more like 5.9 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
selkirk Posted January 5, 2006 Share Posted January 5, 2006 I guess i'll throw in my 3cents.... Â BBQ is thin but DFA, your bein a fucking whiner... I managed to not kill myself when I had only led a whole 1 pitch of 10a crack and no 10a sport. Â Inca Roads is mighty stiff at 5.9 but am I have to go with Tangled up in Blue at 5.9. That fucker kicked my ass last time! I felt slightly better when smoot gave it a 10c. Â at 5.8 Dogleg is brutal, it's shorter, but harder than Classic. However neither is as scary as First Blood at Tieton. fist crack my ass. Â 5.7 P1 of the Cave Route on Concorde. That transition between cracks scared me to death! Awkward, insecure, thrutching! Â 5.6 and 5.5 Anything at these grades at Tieton is significantly harder than what i've seen at L-worth, Smiffy, E-38, or Vantage. Double Trouble always feels more like 5.7 than 5.5. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MCash Posted January 5, 2006 Share Posted January 5, 2006 5.8 - Aires at Index 5.9 - Developing Arms at Tieton 5.10A - Angel Crack at Leavenworth and Libra Crack at Index 5.10B - Pack Animal Direct at Smith 5.10C - Living for the City at Tieton 5.10D - All of them Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
catbirdseat Posted January 5, 2006 Share Posted January 5, 2006 Deflowered, 5.6 Steve's Canyon, Joshua Tree NP Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geek_the_Greek Posted January 5, 2006 Share Posted January 5, 2006 I've always found .10b to be the most meaningless grade anywhere. When I climb something rated .10b I expect it to feel anywhere from 5.8 to mid 11. Â Caboose (Squampton) is the hardest I've tried. (I guess it's shut down now, so kind of moot.) I thought BBQ and Orange sunshine were decent for the grade (ie not hard). Pack Animal direct? I thought it was kinda soft. Â Oh yeah - last pitch of Sunblessed (rattly fists/stem/chimney horrible thing) felt farqin hard for 10b. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jlag Posted January 6, 2006 Share Posted January 6, 2006 Pack Animal Direct- soft(er) if you's got small digits way harder if you got big meat hooks  Double Cross at J-tree- hard ass 5.6 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
markd Posted January 6, 2006 Share Posted January 6, 2006 western chimney 5.5 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Drederek Posted January 6, 2006 Share Posted January 6, 2006 Deflowered, 5.6 Steve's Canyon, Joshua Tree NP P2 of duchess (feudal wall) is way harder than Deflowered. But I thought this was hardest climbs that aren't total sandbags. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Distel32 Posted January 6, 2006 Share Posted January 6, 2006 I can't believe you had trouble on Titanic. We must have way different styles! I didn't climb anything harder that V4 and did Titanic in maybe 3 trys. I was pissed about not flashing. Funny thing is the Drtopo.com guide shows it at V2. Bouldering is all about style is what I'm starting to learn. Â yeah, well a couple months later I went back and did it first try in my skate shoes..... Â I felt better for sure Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Distel32 Posted January 6, 2006 Share Posted January 6, 2006 Feels Like Grit, v5 at joe's valley, I've seen it rated v7 which is lame  Black Slabbath, at squampton The weasel at squam some stupid v3 in flagstaff bvb made me try Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.