Hardest Climb of Each Grade

[Dru]

this was not hard thanks jk

[Dr_Flash_Amazing]

Oh, futch! How could DFA forget the forgettable (at least, you want to forget it) Cool Ranch Flavor? It hurts to fail to onsight a route that should be a gimme, especially when the route sucks to boot. Hardest 5.11 at Smith or something.

[goatboy]

I thought meatgrinder was easy for 5.10, assuming you know how to jam...

 

Speaking of jam, how about some j tree climbs:

 

5.6 - leapin leanna (desperate for the grade, with huge groundfall right off the bat)

 

5.7 - Double Cross (aka "pumpkin head" to the locals - ever notice the bloodstains at the base of this thing?)

 

5.9 - Touch and Go (slick and steep!)

 

10a - The EXORCIST

[Drederek]

8 s face jello tower

9 p1 davis -holland when drippy

9+ Inca Road

10a sunblessed p2

10b split pillar & BBQ (don't wuss to the crack at top)

10c p5 of cloud tower (RR)

10d gangsters

11a psychopath

11a/b Imperial Master

11b p6(?) of swim (the one after the 10b)

11d rainy day woman (L Si) unless it actually is 12a

[Dru]

Sunblessed p2 is soft, more like 5.9

[selkirk]

I guess i'll throw in my 3cents....

 

BBQ is thin but DFA, your bein a fucking whiner... I managed to not kill myself when I had only led a whole 1 pitch of 10a crack and no 10a sport.

 

Inca Roads is mighty stiff at 5.9 but am I have to go with

Tangled up in Blue at 5.9. That fucker kicked my ass last time! I felt slightly better when smoot gave it a 10c.

 

at 5.8 Dogleg is brutal, it's shorter, but harder than Classic. However neither is as scary as First Blood at Tieton. fist crack my ass.

 

5.7 P1 of the Cave Route on Concorde. That transition between cracks scared me to death! Awkward, insecure, thrutching!

 

5.6 and 5.5 Anything at these grades at Tieton is significantly harder than what i've seen at L-worth, Smiffy, E-38, or Vantage. Double Trouble always feels more like 5.7 than 5.5.

[MCash]

5.8 - Aires at Index

5.9 - Developing Arms at Tieton

5.10A - Angel Crack at Leavenworth and Libra Crack at Index

5.10B - Pack Animal Direct at Smith

5.10C - Living for the City at Tieton

5.10D - All of them

[catbirdseat]

Deflowered, 5.6 Steve's Canyon, Joshua Tree NP

[Geek_the_Greek]

I've always found .10b to be the most meaningless grade anywhere. When I climb something rated .10b I expect it to feel anywhere from 5.8 to mid 11.

 

Caboose (Squampton) is the hardest I've tried. (I guess it's shut down now, so kind of moot.) I thought BBQ and Orange sunshine were decent for the grade (ie not hard). Pack Animal direct? I thought it was kinda soft.

 

Oh yeah - last pitch of Sunblessed (rattly fists/stem/chimney horrible thing) felt farqin hard for 10b.

[jlag]

Pack Animal Direct- soft(er) if you's got small digits

way harder if you got big meat hooks

 

Double Cross at J-tree- hard ass 5.6

[markd]

western chimney 5.5

[Drederek]

Deflowered, 5.6 Steve's Canyon, Joshua Tree NP

P2 of duchess (feudal wall) is way harder than Deflowered. But I thought this was hardest climbs that aren't total sandbags.

[Distel32]

I can't believe you had trouble on Titanic. We must have way different styles! I didn't climb anything harder that V4 and did Titanic in maybe 3 trys. I was pissed about not flashing. Funny thing is the Drtopo.com guide shows it at V2. Bouldering is all about style is what I'm starting to learn.

 

yeah, well a couple months later I went back and did it first try in my skate shoes.....

 

I felt better for sure

[Distel32]

Feels Like Grit, v5 at joe's valley, I've seen it rated v7 which is lame

 

Black Slabbath, at squampton

The weasel at squam

some stupid v3 in flagstaff bvb made me try