[TR] Wallowas- 1/19/2004

[SmokeShow]

Climb: Wallowas-

 

Date of Climb: 1/19/2004

 

Trip Report:

Two unemployed climbers, two great days of weather on tap, an open invitation to the Wallowas to hang and climb with a guy who brews loads of kick-ass beer.

 

MtnHigh picked me up early Monday morning and we trucked across 'cowboy country' to meet up with Terminal Gravity at his brewpub shortly after noon. After we downed a pint of his liquid gold (for me it was the ESG - extra special golden) TG was ready to lead us to one of the Wallowas icy little gems.

 

After about a two mile hike into a canyon we were introduced to Falls Creek Falls. The Falls were partially frozen and the flow was heavy, but it definitely looked like it would go.

Being a 'newbie' to the Northwest and a first timer with MH and TG they generously offered me the lead. Ah yes, that beautiful moment of truth. What to do… accept and show some ‘sack’ or puss out and offer up some thinly veiled excuse about not having swung my tools since last winter. This was grade II at best and I’d led harder ice, but it wasn’t the route that scared me as much as the lack of opportunities for protection. I accepted the lead. I stepped up to the base of the route and took a look into the pit where the water was falling behind the snow and ice. It was dark and it looked scary. The ice adjacent to the water was thick but only partially attached. More to the right the ice was quite thin with a blanket of snow to help obscure what was ice and rock. After a few taps with my hammer, here and there, I started up. I managed to find decent ice, for a good twenty feet, mostly close to the water. Any time I tried to move right I just knocked ice off, exposing rock. As I climbed left I hoped the ice didn’t fail, resulting in me plunging into the dark pit below.

Finally I found some thick ice that seemed well enough attached to place a screw. I felt comfortable. Just above the screw, ice gave way to snowy benches with no purchase. I tried to clear the snow away in hopes of finding some ice to hack at… nothing. I just sort of clawed and hacked and mantled up to the next step. Then again, not much ice and a snowy bench. Somewhere near the top I found another chunk of thick ice that seemed well attached and I placed a second screw. After that I climbed through a little more snow and topped out. Fun, but definitely mankey. I hoped I left enough ice on the route for MH and TG to follow. Either I did or these guys had some mixed skills because before long we were walking off and heading back to the pub for some more brew.

 

TG had to work some Tuesday and Wednesday (if you call brewing beer work) so MH and I decided to head into the backcountry to explore. TG pointed us to Hurricane Creek Trail and we headed up early in the morning. We tromped all of eight miles in before we set up camp. Along the way I could hardly think of anything but how heavy my damn pack was, what a damn wimp I must be, and that ultimately my desires and aspirations probably exceed the limits of my candy ass tolerances. However, the beauty of the Wallowas often broke my masochistic concentration.

The peaks that flanked the valley were gorgeous. The creek running adjacent to the trail was constantly offering solace with the sound of falling water. The snow was soft and nicely consolidated. The sky was blue, the wind was still, and we were the only guys in that whole blessed valley. I was reminded, as I always am, why I do this.

The next morning was a tad chilly but well within my tolerances. The sky was clear blue again. We brewed some tea and boiled some water and soon got on our way to explore some more of the backcountry. Hiking with a stripped down pack was heaven. MH and I hiked about another mile in before we decided to head back to camp, break it down, and hike out. On the hike out I became convinced that this place is a backcountry skier’s paradise. If only I had some skies instead of that lousy pack. After about five miles of moving at a good pace I was back to focusing on nothing but the pain in my weak hips and white-collar feet. Soon, the thought of beer and a huge plate of good food was my only motivation to keep trudging along. The miles seemed to go so slow that way, but we were out of the canyon a couple hours before dark, on our way back to the brewpub that I was becoming very fond of. There, we downed plenty of pints to sooth our sore muscles.

 

Thursday morning we met TG at the pub to head out for one more climb on one of the Wallowas treasures. TG powered his Bronco up through the snow, high up into the hills, saving us about a mile on a dreaded approach. Although the beer therapy from the previous night was effective, MH and I wanted nothing to do with an approach harder than a walkup. As we stepped out the vehicle MH and I realized we had left our snowshoes back at the pub. Ah yes, that brew does help numb the muscles. Idiots. I think we jinxed ourselves not wanting a big approach and all we had to look forward to now was a snow slog. Great. We started up the trail and soon hit the deeper snow. We took turns breaking trail and it went surprisingly well. The snow gods were kind and postholes were only calf deep most of the time with an occasional period of wading through thigh deep snow. After about two hours we gained Murray Saddle, the gap adjacent to Ruby Peak. Although the valley was socked in with fog, we were above the haze in beautiful blue sky and comfortable temps. A third day of beautiful weather.

From the Saddle we traversed across the base of the cliff to a mass of lovely thick blue ice. We climbed up a steep snow slope and stomped out a ledge just the right of the ice. It looked difficult on the left, only slightly easier to the right. Probably solid grade III.

TG and I looked at MH to signify the lead was all his and, I must say, he took it and executed beautifully. MH built an anchor up top and we spent the next few hours playing on that beauty.

The snow was so beautiful up there we all wish we had skis coming down. The backcountry skier’s paradise.

 

Winter hours at Terminal Gravity brewpub are Thursday through Saturday from 3:30 to 9:00 so the bar was in full effect when we got back into town. Once again MH and I indulged in several pints, this time with the company and cheer of the locals. The evening was capped with a much needed shower and home cooked meal at TG’s cabin up in the hills. His lovely wife was kind enough to cook vegetarian for me. The stove and bourbon kept us warm. The atmosphere was light and cozy, the conversation was stimulating, the mood was just right. Life was good.

 

TG has my eternal gratitude for his generosity. MH has my respect for his performance in the hills and on ice. Until we climb again fellas… cheers.

Edited January 25, 2004 by SmokeShow

[cracked]

[mtn_mouse]

Nice TR, but holy moly, that is one humongous avalanche trap coming off of twin peaks area.

[Paul_detrick]

Now thats a tr.

[kurthicks]

if i'd only known, i'd have been there too. maybe next time. nice tr.

[lummox]

nice.

[Terminal_Gravity]

Great TR & Photos, Smokeshow. Thanks for coming out to my stomping grounds.

 

you don't think brewing is work???

[vegetablebelay]

nice, thanks for the report.

[sobo]

Now thats a tr.

 

I'd have to give that a "ditto". Really nice TR, guys!