Tomo Cesen

[EWolfe]

I have come across two discussions recently about Tomo Cesen's on-sight solo first ascent of the South Face of Lhotse in 1990.

 

One in "Beyond Risk", and again in "Postcards From The Ledge".

 

What is the general feeling about this feat? Yes or No?

 

 

Edited January 16, 2004 by MisterE

[Cpt.Caveman]

I dont see the poll option which would work best here.

 

I believe he did it. I believe you wont.

Edited January 16, 2004 by Cpt.Caveman

[eric8]

I believe he did it. I believe you wont.

 

[Cpt.Caveman]

eric8,

 

That might be funny but my statement is true to my belief.

[Dru]

It's one of those things where you'd need a time machine to verify. Too bad he didn't write 420 in the summit cairn

 

It seems Cesen fucked up on Lhotse by using someone else's photos and claiming they were his. Whether this means he also lied about the climb or not is unknowm and frankly who cares. The dude has free soloed 13c, verified in front of witnesses. The real prize on Lhotse is the first naked speed ascent anyways

[Terminal_Gravity]

Messner used to support him and thinks he did it but has retracted his support.

 

There are also discussions in "Kiss or Kill" and mentions in "Over the Edge"

[cj001f]

Back in 93 or 94? Climbing Mag had a multi-page article on the whole Lhotse controversy. Whether or not he did, he is still an awesome climber.

[Commarin]

This topic is old, but wanted to add this from an interview with Marko Prezelj, another Slovenian alpinist and one of the greatest Himalayan climbers of all time:

 

We mentioned Tomo Cesen. So the simple question is: did he do it or didn’t he?

 

He did it. There’s no proof that he did it and there’s no proof that he didn’t. So to me, as long as he says he did it, I believe him. Almost every alpinist in the world has something they did without proof. So if I started disbelieving him, I’d have to start disbelieving others. I have many ascents I have no proof I have made. Even in sport climbing you often have to just believe that someone’s done something. Without any proof. So for me this kind of trust is a fundamental thing in climbing. Besides I know Tomo, and it helps me to believe, because he’s a really special person who is able to do such things.

Edited November 29, 2008 by Commarin

[crackers]

i met the dude cragging in slovenia one day. He was doing laps on a hard twelve in those neon green koflach double boots...without a rope. Just going up and down and up and down and up and down. The kicker for me was when he came off, he stopped to chat with us, and he was not breathing heavy or looking like he had exerted himself at all. I never managed to redpoint that route...

 

I believe the guy.

 

BTW, his two sons are badasses...