shapp Posted January 15, 2004 Posted January 15, 2004 I was surprised to see this route in the lates version of Rock and Ice. Is the cat out of the bag? Has anyone done this or know any thing about it? Quote
forrest_m Posted January 15, 2004 Posted January 15, 2004 wouldn't you say that if a route is published in rock and ice that the cat is pretty much officially out of the bag? the route looks cool. i see two possible futures: either the total number of people summitting garfield will vastly increase, or after a short buzz, people will forget about it and it will be reclaimed by the moss. does anyone know if the proposed closure of the middle fork snoqualmie road is before or after the access point for the route? Quote
chucK Posted January 15, 2004 Posted January 15, 2004 (edited) Both! From Nov -> April the closure will be at Taylor River which is a mile (or less according to Klenke [who seems to know his stuff]) from the trailhead for this climb. May -> October it's closed at Dingford Creek which is well past it. By the way, choss not moss is and will be the issue with this climb. Edited January 15, 2004 by chucK Quote
shapp Posted January 15, 2004 Author Posted January 15, 2004 The only beta I want is once you get on the first pitch is route finding fairly straight forward without a topo and how loose is it? On a scale of 1 to 4, where 1 is solid bomb proof granite and 4 is pulling blocks off with serious potential of being hit or cutting the rope, 2 would be and some loose stuff, but can be avoided for the most part there is some chance of breaking a hold, 3 would be you will be knocking off holds, with moderate potential of being hit. In addition is there any natural gear placement opportunity on the route besides the bolts and if so, what size range/type. Quote
Off_White Posted January 15, 2004 Posted January 15, 2004 Yeah ChucK or Mattp, I think it's time for a TR. C'mon, tell us a bedtime story.... Quote
Crackbolter Posted January 15, 2004 Posted January 15, 2004 I can't wait to see the best speed ascent record on it in a few years...and in 20 years and then 50 years! Quote
chucK Posted January 15, 2004 Posted January 15, 2004 (edited) I haven't seen the official topo so my pitch #'s may be off but here's the beta as per your specifications: p's 1 through ~12 straightforward (follow the bolts) 1.5 bolts, lot's of 'em p's 13-16 might want topo 3 small nuts and tcu's (in looseness) p's 17-? didn't do HELMET recommended Edited January 15, 2004 by chucK Quote
klenke Posted January 15, 2004 Posted January 15, 2004 Dammit, I hate it when people quote me from Pub Club. Thinking I might have been on something as opposing to on to something, I checked my topo. It's two miles from the Taylor River junction to the standard start point for a climb of Garfield. You're right, Al_Pine ChucK: Quote
Peter_Puget Posted January 15, 2004 Posted January 15, 2004 I think while Chuck was on the route so were two other parties. PP Quote
chucK Posted January 15, 2004 Posted January 15, 2004 Yes there were, and one of 'em was dropping a whole bunch a lotta rocks on us. It's an easy route to be dropping rocks from, but I think they could've been a bit more careful . Which reminds me, I forgot to add "helmet" to the above beta. Quote
mattp Posted January 16, 2004 Posted January 16, 2004 The climb is on the West Peak, not the Main Peak, so I think the hike starts over a mile before where Mr. Klenke has indicated - basically right at the lower left-hand corner of the "scale" that he imprinted on top of the map. Quote
klenke Posted January 16, 2004 Posted January 16, 2004 So, I was kind of right after all (by sheepish mistake ). Say, is that Fee Demo Wall across the river in the southwest corner of the map? That point is unofficially known as "The Choirboy" (2,120+ ft, but with 400 ft of prominence). Quote
richard_noggin Posted January 18, 2004 Posted January 18, 2004 The route has been up for two years and you wankers just now get the beta! See what spray'n $#!T about climbers that give their hard work and money to put up climbs for us all got ya! If it's not your route don't phuk with it or spray Negative $#!T about it! One mans choss is another mans classic, it's all climbing and it's all good DICK Quote
ken4ord Posted January 20, 2004 Posted January 20, 2004 wouldn't you say that if a route is published in rock and ice that the cat is pretty much officially out of the bag? the route looks cool. i see two possible futures: either the total number of people summitting garfield will vastly increase, or after a short buzz, people will forget about it and it will be reclaimed by the moss. does anyone know if the proposed closure of the middle fork snoqualmie road is before or after the access point for the route? There is a third future, and that is new route development. I was out there this summer scoping it out and very surprised that there "weren't" routes up that huge piece of stone. Glad to hear there is since it is really close to Seattle and everything. I was begining to think the climbing community around here are slackers if they left that hunk of stone by its self. So info please??? someone anyone, there has to be topo, so where is it? Quote
chucK Posted January 20, 2004 Posted January 20, 2004 I was surprised to see this route in the latest version of Rock and Ice . topo therein Quote
ken4ord Posted January 21, 2004 Posted January 21, 2004 I was surprised to see this route in the latest version of Rock and Ice . topo therein So you mean I gotta buy that stupid magazine? I stop reading Climbing and R&I several years ago. Come on somebody have it that thing and wants to post it here for all? Quote
ScottP Posted January 21, 2004 Posted January 21, 2004 Chuck, did you and Matt have a topo when you went up to do it? Quote
mattp Posted January 21, 2004 Posted January 21, 2004 No, we did not. And we wasted some time as a result. Onmce you get started, you will probably do OK without a topo up to the top of pith 12, a full-length pitch with perhaps 4-6 bolts in it. However, from here you mave to move right to a bush (120 feet, no bolts), and then start upward again. A topo would help, but is probably not needed if you have this beta. Copy your friend's copy of R&I and you will do fine. Quote
Szyjakowski Posted January 25, 2004 Posted January 25, 2004 "No one is going to bitch about this thing being over-bolted," says Windham ahhhh, now i am curious to try this route... Quote
chucK Posted January 27, 2004 Posted January 27, 2004 I put some pictures up of the climb here. And another thing I forgot on the gear list... two 60m ropes. Quote
pastrami_noel Posted February 24, 2004 Posted February 24, 2004 Can you rappel it with two 50m ropes? Quote
chucK Posted February 24, 2004 Posted February 24, 2004 I'm pretty sure there were at least a couple of rope-stretcher pitches (we had 60's). We didn't get all the way to the top either. Quote
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