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Mount Garfield, Infinite Bliss route


shapp

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  • 2 weeks later...

Hey Chuck,

Thanks for posting the pics and tr on your website thumbs_up.gif

 

Hiked up there on Saturday to learn the approach and find the start of the climb. I wasn't sure I had the correct start, but after checking your site and comparing photos I think I got it. Just got to wait for it to dry out now !!

 

From your website:

base.jpg

 

My picture from Saturday:

318909-garfield.jpg

318909-garfield.jpg.66886ced2be9ebff01f39fb38a659714.jpg

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you know it sounds crazy, but as I was dodging the prodigious amount of snow and ice raining down these slabs I couldn't help but think what this looked like during that deep freeze we had this winter ... hmm.

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Funny you went up there on Saturday cause I was up in the area on Friday and was thinking about checking out the approach. Damn, it would be rad if that face would freeze up. I know earlier this last summer I was thinking that when I was up with Alpinfox on another part of the mountain.

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  • 2 months later...

OK, considering these posts were last done in 2001 and 02. Im sure everyone has had a chance to climb this route. Me and my buddies got this idea in our heads to get on it so we spent a couple days effort to find the trailhead and the climb, which is not easy. Then we got on the climb and walked it through to pitch 15, although there was some frustration in route finding on the last pitch. We then spent the next 3hrs looking for a bolt or anchors on this crappy chossy stuff with no luck and bailed. From what I am hearing the route heads off to the right? Are there bolted anchors at least on each pitch or do we have to solo the crappy choss? Do I head 200ft in one direction and hope to find anchors?

 

I only ask this because the first 13 pitches are so heavily bolted. We figured we must not be on the right route when all bolt protection died. Where we got in the choss was easy but dangerous all the same, especially with no bolts and poor pro. It seems wierd to bolt every few feet on easy slab and then put nothing on chossy stuff that isn't technically any easier.

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