Drew_Jones Posted January 12, 2004 Posted January 12, 2004 We're planning a winter ascent of Shuksan 3rd week of February. Anyone been up there recently? What's the best approach/summit route that can be done with tele gear? Thanks, Drew Quote
Rodchester Posted January 12, 2004 Posted January 12, 2004 Drew: I'm not sure, but my understanding has always been that the Sulphide Glacier is the best, as far as avalanche is concerned, during winter and early spring. But I've never done it...... Good luck Quote
DPS Posted January 12, 2004 Posted January 12, 2004 White Salmon Glacier would be the shortest approach in Winter and is noted for its good skiing. Quote
JoshK Posted January 13, 2004 Posted January 13, 2004 Sulfide could be a long haul in mid winter, esp. with the amount of low level snow we have add. That could add several miles on roads; not sure if you care or not. Sulfide would probably be more straight forward in terms of less avalanche prone terrain, but there are definitely plenty of areas in that approach to get yourself in trouble as well. A couple of years ago a partner and I dug a pit and continued over a suspect slope during cool weather. Two days later, upon heading down, the slope had slid due to the warmer days... Quote
Alpine_Tom Posted January 13, 2004 Posted January 13, 2004 Josh is right; you'd probably have to hike in 2-3 miles to the trailhead on Sulphide this time of year, maybe all the way from the Baker Lake road. Plus, Sulphide isn't much of a climb; it's more like a ski tour outing. I'd vote for the White Salmon route. Check Nelson vol 2. Quote
Scumby Posted January 13, 2004 Posted January 13, 2004 I've always read and heard that you can't see Shuksan from most roads...But on a clear day you can see it plain as day from the ferry terminal on the north end of Vashon... Quote
Alex Posted January 13, 2004 Posted January 13, 2004 Scumby, ....huh? There is a road (and a ski area, no less) that you can see Shuksan from, errr, quite clearly... Alex Quote
mattp Posted January 13, 2004 Posted January 13, 2004 Depending on what you are looking for, the Sulphide may in fact be a much better choice. If it is only two to three extra miles to the trailhead, this will be on a logging road and will take you 45 minutes. Overall, the Sulphide is both safer and easier, so much so that this makes up for the longer distance and I bet it won't actually take you longer to climb that way. The approach to the north side routes can be quite difficult for how short it actually is, due to brush and massive piles of avalanche debris that tower as much as a hundred feet high, and the noth facing snow is almost always going to be deeper and more difficult to beat a trail through. When you get to the moutnain the upper half of the White Salmon Glacier is actually fairly steep - too steep for an intermediate level skier - and also frequently covered with avalanche debris. It can be a great ski run, and if you are looking for powder that is where I wuld go, but I believe that most parties who climb via any of the north side routes in the winter do not summit, whereas I bet most parties who opt for the Sulphide do. Quote
Dru Posted January 13, 2004 Posted January 13, 2004 You can see Shuksan from Langley and SW Abbotsford too including from the TRans Canada Highway exit 73 to 83 approx.... Quote
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