Yossarian Posted March 5, 2001 Posted March 5, 2001 I'm looking to do a basic big wall route (A2+, 5.10 or lower) around the middle of March. Can anyone recommend a route that can be done without a portaledge and using mostly clean placements? Where is the best place to go this time of year? Yosemite, Zion, Squamish? Quote
Dru Posted March 5, 2001 Posted March 5, 2001 Where's closest to you? Zion has some great clean aid routes like Space Shot but the weather can be iffy in the spring. Squamish is likely to rain, ditto Index. If it's pouring rain you'd probably be better off on granite than redrock. I'd pick Yosemite as the #1 choice. [This message has been edited by Dru (edited 03-05-2001).] Quote
Rodchester Posted March 6, 2001 Posted March 6, 2001 opps..sory, wrong place [This message has been edited by Rodchester (edited 03-05-2001).] Quote
pope Posted March 6, 2001 Posted March 6, 2001 Yo, Yossarian! So, you want to climb a big wall but you don't know how? You might think about the Eiger. Yeah, you know, the Mordwand. It goes at about 5.5 with a little fixed/clean aid, and by today's standards, it certainly qualifies as an introductory wall climb. I heard it was soloed in a day by a girl. How hard can it be? This summer, there will be an international climb on the Eiger, with a Frenchman, and Austrian, a German, and an American (alternating for Lawrence Scott...he had an accident). If you think you might be in for it, his position on the team remains open, and I know of a great climbing school (more of a swinging singles club these days) where you can get off the sauce and in shape for the climb. Quote
Wallstein Posted March 6, 2001 Posted March 6, 2001 I would say Yosemite is your best bet for weather in March. But don't count out index. If you do make the trip to the valley I would recommend the South Face of washington's column or the west face of the leaning tower. Both can be done cleanly and both have very nice bivi ledges down low on the route. The west face is extremely overhanging and stays dry in the rain. The south face has more free climbing and better aid but isn't as steep and doesn't have the exposed feel like the west face. The south face is the most popular grade V in yosemite and a pretty dam good route. I think I have done it 4 times now. And I will probably do it again soon. If you want more beta feel free to email me. Hope this helped Mike Quote
Wallstein Posted March 8, 2001 Posted March 8, 2001 Big Stones, You think the Prow is a better climb than the south face? The prow seemed really trashy to me. If was full of fixed junk and it was like connecting the dots. At least on the south face you get to do straight-forward clean aid. I think its kinda like this: the prow would be a warm up for the zodiac (fixed aid climbing) and the South face would be a warm up for the regular route on half dome or the nose(mixed free and aid). I guess it just depends on what your looking for. I was just turned off by all the junky stuff on the prow. To each his own! And you are right about N.Dome gully, it could be pretty sketchy at night if you haven't done it. Quote
jtljohnson Posted March 8, 2001 Posted March 8, 2001 The Prow is definitely the better route if you want exposure. Yes there is a lot of fixed bashies but plenty of clean aid and some manky bolts to connect the crack systems for an added bonus. The views of half dome the whole time can't be beat. There are good ledges but a portaledge would make it cushy. Have fun!!! Quote
gumby Posted March 9, 2001 Posted March 9, 2001 Hey Mike I still have not heard from you I've e-mailed you twice now and no reply WHATS UP!!!!! E mail me! Kendall cascadelama@hotmail.com Quote
Big_Stones Posted March 9, 2001 Posted March 9, 2001 Yosemite does have the best weather this time of year, but be very watchful of the weather, I have seen it snow in June in the Valley. If it's nice out expect to wait for your turn on the south face of the column especially during march when all the colleges have spring break. The best time to get on the South Face is right after a big storm, possibly booty too. The aid is easy but more then one party has stalled on the Kor Roof, the typical bottle neck of the route. If you have a portledge or Rent one from Mark Deger the Prow is far better climb then the south face. it goes clean and the hauling ain't dramatic like it is to dinner ledge. The West Face of leaning tower can be real cold since it only sees late afternoon sun this time of year but offers some great exposure. What ever route you do, especially the column, do not attempt to come down North Dome Gulley in the dark, many epics and some deaths. If no body is below you on the South face its much better to rap the route. Watch the first rap off the top as it is a rope sticker. Leaning Tower offers the joy of ten rappells, three down the backside slab and seven down the Leaning tower chimney. If you want further beta email me. Happy Aiding Big Stones Quote
Big_Stones Posted March 9, 2001 Posted March 9, 2001 You do have a good point Wallstein. It is all in what you are looking for and forward to doing. For me its about position and to be quite honest the steeper the better. Makes hauling easier and the falls cleaner depending on what and where your falling. Rusty mank is part of the game and by the way everyone as of 1999 the bolt ladders on the prow are bomber. If you want manky ladders do Wall of EML or Mescalito, dowels are so much fun Happy Nailing Big Stones Quote
Wallstein Posted March 9, 2001 Posted March 9, 2001 Big Stones, I did the prow last may with the guy who drilled most of the new bolts on the prow (and zodiac and the west face and a grip of other routes). He can barely swing a hammer now. Mank is sorta part of the game. Its part of the trade route game. There are plenty of routes in the valley that aren't fix fests with rows of manky bolts and heads. I have done the New Dawn and got to lead every rivet ladder on it since I was the lightest guy on the team. I have also got to lead every rivet ladder pitch on the T-Trip so lets just say I am well versed in manky rivets. The funny thing is though, the worst rivets I have ever been on were the old ones on Town Crier. The prow might be better for hauling but, I have done the column 7 times now and have never taken more than a back pack so I have never really worried about the hauling. Dragging big bags up things is hard work compared to ditching all of the weight and just going for it. I might consider taking a haulbag up the column if my criteria was met: 1. The haulbag was full of beer and food (mostly beer)and 2. my partner was the blonde-cutie that works at the awahnee front desk. If my criteria is ever met I would probably do the prow. -mike Quote
Pete Posted March 9, 2001 Posted March 9, 2001 You guys are all nuts if you think yosemite has better weather than zion at this time of year. I would definately say go to zion, if you are looking for short, clean aid walls. The driving loop is closed, and it is such a nice place without all the crowds. Quote
erik Posted March 9, 2001 Posted March 9, 2001 pete, the weather in zion is volitale in spring. many thrunderstroms and flash floods...this also happens in late summer. if it rains in zion, you are done climbing. where is the fun in that? zion is beuatiful and less crowded, but to learn the game of big walling, the valley has no peer. plus a beginner usually gets brain fucked on the jungles pitches. Quote
Wallstein Posted March 9, 2001 Posted March 9, 2001 Pete, Go check the weather on any of the many internet weather sites and you will see for the next 5 days yosemite is suppose to have clear skies and temps around 60. Zion on the other hand is showing partly cloudy and maybe some rain in the next week. Maybe you have been living in WA to long if partly cloudy and possible rain is better than sunny and 60. Both places have questionable weather at this time of year. A good option is to just start driving south and if the weather is good in the valley stay there and if it's not keep going to Zion. Quote
pope Posted March 9, 2001 Posted March 9, 2001 eeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee! [This message has been edited by pope (edited 03-15-2001).] Quote
Wallstein Posted March 9, 2001 Posted March 9, 2001 Pope- I didn't realize it was already spring in JTree or is Yossarian planning on getting tail two nights in a row when spring does arrive? And bro you don't count for both nights. More importantly I have a question- Yosemite's fines brew = Olde English or Green Labels? My vote would be for the cold gold one. Maybe we should start another thread for this question? [This message has been edited by Wallstein (edited 03-09-2001).] Quote
Big_Stones Posted March 9, 2001 Posted March 9, 2001 Green labels don't travel so well unless heavily padded. It was the ever tasty OLD E, and we only lost 3 of those suckers, and my haulbag smelled like a brewery. Quote
pope Posted March 10, 2001 Posted March 10, 2001 eeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee! [This message has been edited by pope (edited 03-15-2001).] Quote
Pete Posted March 10, 2001 Posted March 10, 2001 Sorry Guys- the choice is Zion. If its raining, there is so much to do and so many other crags to visit within a short drive. If it rains in the valley in spring, you're stuck. You have to drive all the way down around the Sierras to get to the east side. Plus after those big storms in the past week, the runoff on the walls will be incredible. Good for photos though. -Pete Quote
jt Posted March 10, 2001 Posted March 10, 2001 If you are going to Yosemite, you might also consider Skull Queen on Washington Column. It is a fantastic route. It starts in the same place as the South face, and still goes over the Kor roof, but heads out right above there. It is a great line. Super exposed. You probably want a ledge though. It wouldn't be great without one, althouth there are some spots you might be able to bivy. Just food for thought. North Dome Gully: Traverse way right. About 10 times what you think you should. It should take you about 15 to 20 minutes to get to the real decent. Doom, if you go to early. Â Quote
Wallstein Posted March 10, 2001 Posted March 10, 2001 Pete- If its raining in Zion it would probably be raining within a short drive and that would mean the sandstone is wet. Maybe its just a myth but sandstone is known to get really weak once it gets wet. Doesn't sound to safe to be climbing on. Its to bad that you look at being in Yosemite as "stuck." I have never felt like i was "stuck" there even when I actually couldn't leave due to snow. Quote
Big_Stones Posted March 10, 2001 Posted March 10, 2001 Wallstein, There are many non-trade routes that have scores of fixed gear on them. Especially, strings of heads in certain sections were trying to remove the head will destroy the placement and yes rivet ladders. I have only dragged a pig up the column once in my 5 ascents of the column but remember that Yosssarian is beginner going probably to do his first wall. By the way, speaking of beer, you missed the party of the century on dinner ledge in 1999. A haulbag full of the Valley's finest brew. There was much puking and we almost lost B. Law when he went to take a leak and almost fell off diner ledge. Happy Drinking Big Stones [This message has been edited by Big Stones (edited 03-09-2001).] Quote
pope Posted March 11, 2001 Posted March 11, 2001 eeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee! [This message has been edited by pope (edited 03-15-2001).] Quote
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