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Big_Stones

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Everything posted by Big_Stones

  1. Wallstein, There are many non-trade routes that have scores of fixed gear on them. Especially, strings of heads in certain sections were trying to remove the head will destroy the placement and yes rivet ladders. I have only dragged a pig up the column once in my 5 ascents of the column but remember that Yosssarian is beginner going probably to do his first wall. By the way, speaking of beer, you missed the party of the century on dinner ledge in 1999. A haulbag full of the Valley's finest brew. There was much puking and we almost lost B. Law when he went to take a leak and almost fell off diner ledge. Happy Drinking Big Stones [This message has been edited by Big Stones (edited 03-09-2001).]
  2. Green labels don't travel so well unless heavily padded. It was the ever tasty OLD E, and we only lost 3 of those suckers, and my haulbag smelled like a brewery.
  3. You do have a good point Wallstein. It is all in what you are looking for and forward to doing. For me its about position and to be quite honest the steeper the better. Makes hauling easier and the falls cleaner depending on what and where your falling. Rusty mank is part of the game and by the way everyone as of 1999 the bolt ladders on the prow are bomber. If you want manky ladders do Wall of EML or Mescalito, dowels are so much fun Happy Nailing Big Stones
  4. Yosemite does have the best weather this time of year, but be very watchful of the weather, I have seen it snow in June in the Valley. If it's nice out expect to wait for your turn on the south face of the column especially during march when all the colleges have spring break. The best time to get on the South Face is right after a big storm, possibly booty too. The aid is easy but more then one party has stalled on the Kor Roof, the typical bottle neck of the route. If you have a portledge or Rent one from Mark Deger the Prow is far better climb then the south face. it goes clean and the hauling ain't dramatic like it is to dinner ledge. The West Face of leaning tower can be real cold since it only sees late afternoon sun this time of year but offers some great exposure. What ever route you do, especially the column, do not attempt to come down North Dome Gulley in the dark, many epics and some deaths. If no body is below you on the South face its much better to rap the route. Watch the first rap off the top as it is a rope sticker. Leaning Tower offers the joy of ten rappells, three down the backside slab and seven down the Leaning tower chimney. If you want further beta email me. Happy Aiding Big Stones
  5. I highly recommend the adjustable daisy. They make life so much easier on a wall that it is scary. They truly come into there own on steep terrain, where fumbling with a standard daisy chain becomes very tiresome after awhile. They do wear out after about two - three walls, or say about 70 - 90 pitches but they still have a use. Put those suckers on the haul bag as the clip in point and presto!, you can haul that blasted pig all the way to the anchor and hang that sucker just about at any heigth you want it. Using your old ones like this will keep them in use for a long time. In terms of the adjustable fifi, its all a matter of getting used to the system that you find most useful. I don't like them probably because I never used them. But I used to run 2 fifis on slings. One was just long enough to sit in my third steps and the other was for my second steps. When the going gets steep its inpractical to top step unless you absolutely have to. Happy Nailing Big Stones
  6. It was just a question I had. I have drilled my fair share of holes by hand and actually enjoyed it. I doubt that I would power drill up there since recharching the batteries would require solar power. I was just curious. Thats all. Big Stones
  7. I checked out the web page. Ok beta. Could you put m in contact with someone who has done some routes or has scoped the area. The main things I'm interested in is steepness, the pictures make it look a little slabby, coarse I hope that it's just the camera angle. Is it in a wilderness area? ie. power drill concerns. I'm not educated on Canada's laws in wilderness areas, and how tall are these formations? Any beta will be gratefully accepted . Happy Nailing Big Stones
  8. make sure that you rack your pins on an oval biners. Racking pins on anything else is crazy. Alex is right on with the rest except for hooks. Get your self a little ditty bag, sew a keeper sling on it and stuff those unwieldly hooks in the bag. You can add another bag for the large hooks if you need. Its amazing the difference the little bags make, on your sanity. Happy nailing Big Stones
  9. The movie is going to be a joke I think we all agree on that one but my hope is that maybe a few people will actually be turned off by climbing by watching the movie. I can only hope.
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