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About jt

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  • Occupation
    starving climbing bum
  • Location
    Portland, OR
  1. Mike Laytons clinic

    Hey all, I went to school with Dr. Layton and I would recommend him to anyone who is looking for musculoskeletal care. He knows his stuff, to make a blanket statement. Seek him out if you need help. Mike, sorry to hear about your practice move. Let me know where you end up. I still have a couple of friends in Seattle that like chiropractic care. I would like to send them your way. j
  2. Don't forget to climb Aspiring while you are there. Great photos, thanks for the flashback. Yeah the wine is good as well!
  3. Push-ups

    Layton, you're right, Serratus Anterior is the name of the muscle that I was thinking of, my bad, Subscap is an internal rotator. Think the brain is fried from exams.
  4. Push-ups

    If you protract your shoulders at the end of your arm range of motion during a push up (like when you are finished with the push up, but you still can get a little more lift our of pushing a little further) you can work subscapularis, which may be the most important shoulder stabilizer. Anyone who concerned about there shoulder should be doing some type of pushing exercise (low weight, high reps, which makes pushups perfect), as well as working external rotators (tubing is good for this). My shoulders are unstable from hanging on them for so many years. I think posterior instability is really common in climbers.
  5. Broken Back

    Radon, Glad to hear that you didn't damage the cord and your right because you didn't you should be back to 100%. Lucky and I am happy for you. Make sure to do your rehab as soon as you can, obviously talk to your docs, but the sooner the vertebrae is stabilized and you can start moving the area, the less scar tissue you will have around the area and easier it will be to get back to normal motion in the area. TL junction area is already prone to degeneration, so you should be extra careful to re-stregthen and get the flexibility back before you start pounding on it again (and I am sure you will, which is great!). Hope that is helpful and not too preachy, if I had an injury like that I would want to know. good luck and get well soon,
  6. achilles tendonitis

    I agree with Mike on this, rest, rehab, shoes is key. DO NOT RUN THROUGH THIS. ICE 20 minutes on, 60 minutes off while acute, 2 cycles max, while acute. I would also look at nutrition, make sure you are getting enough Vit. C, Ca, Mg, GAG's, Bromalain. If really bad and you want to be agressive, use a posterior splint to keep your foot dorsiflexed (calf stretched position). No longer that a couple nights or so. This will keep your achillies at the maximum length overnight when new fibers are being laid down. (usually we sleep with our feet pointed, first step rips all the new fibers or at least damages them). Acute modified training- No hills, no jumping, no speed training, walk on soft surface (trail), slowly increase training to tolerance. (you will know the next day. SubAcute- likely after 1 to 2 weeks- alternate hot cold. (heat before exercise, cold after. See mike's notes above. If that does not work...?... Don't get a steroid injection, apparently it is risky. Good luck.
  7. New Fred Beckey Talking Doll!

    About as expected, lots of obscure crap that he never talked about. Better than biomechanics though.
  8. New Fred Beckey Talking Doll!

    Any parties going on in portland?
  9. in search of waterproof gloves

    As far as I know, true waterproof gloves don't exsist d/t there being so many seams to seal. They would cost like $200 to make it work and not too many people are going to spend that. There are likely mitts out there that are seam sealed, but you will have to look and see if they are. In my experience, best is to get gloves that are good shells that have a thick removable liner, just deal with being wet, at least they are warm, then hang them dry at night.
  10. Shovel and Probe

    I have never used the all in one. i thought about getting it but the probe didn't seem stiff enough, it is like a tent pole. i ended up with a Volie alpine shovel (a bit smaller than the all in one) and a BD Alpine light probe. Been happy with both. Fortunately never had to use the probe. Definatley get a metal shovel. think it is pretty hard to go wrong.
  11. Sisters

    Didn't go, weather too crappy, ended up skiing in a cloud on Hood.
  12. Sisters

    Looking for options to climb this weekend from a pdx base. Anyone have any beta on the sisters, thoughts on conditions, routes that may be climbable?
  13. Engagement Ring Cost Equation Question

    Yep, we're (notice the correct grammer) quacks. Check out the curriculum. http://www.wschiro.edu/academics/dcprogram/ac_dc_curriculum.html
  14. Engagement Ring Cost Equation Question

    Mike, your a retard.