Jason_Martin Posted December 4, 2003 Posted December 4, 2003 I've just received a report from some climbers who went into Table Mountain yesterday. It sounds like there is quite a bit of ice up there. Death Picnic is in but scary. This particular party climbed a route to the left that went at WI 3+. Info on this route will be available on wastateice.net soon. The story is that there is a tremendous amount of ice there right now that doesn't quite touch down. The climbers who were out there yesterday believe that this could be an excellent place for futuristic mixed climbing adventures. Jason Quote
Alex Posted December 4, 2003 Posted December 4, 2003 Jason_Martin said: The climbers who were out there yesterday believe that this could be an excellent place for futuristic mixed climbing adventures. I believe it, though the rock is total mank in some places. I think you'd find it hard to find real solid rock to bolt protect. Blades still work though for the top pitch of Death Picnic, and its off vertical so rests exist. Quote
Billy Posted December 4, 2003 Posted December 4, 2003 SO where is Table Mt? Sorry, I haven't gotten the new book yet. Quote
Billy Posted December 4, 2003 Posted December 4, 2003 Do I pay you online here? Or should I just buy the book? Quote
Alex Posted December 4, 2003 Posted December 4, 2003 please insert a check for 21.95 into your floppy disc drive. The online version of our guide will be arriving on your screen shortly. seriously, Table Mountain is just S of Mt Baker ski area. Alex Quote
Doctorb Posted December 4, 2003 Posted December 4, 2003 Alex said: Jason_Martin said: The climbers who were out there yesterday believe that this could be an excellent place for futuristic mixed climbing adventures. I believe it, though the rock is total mank in some places. For Death Picnic I think you'd find it hard to find real solid rock to bolt protect. Blades still work though for the top pitch of that particular route, and its off vertical so rests exist. Why would you retro-bolt Death Picnic? Quote
Alex Posted December 4, 2003 Posted December 4, 2003 sorry, I didnt mean to imply that, was just commenting on the rock on Table in general. Seems more solid low down, then junk the higher you go. Changed above post ... Quote
Jason_Martin Posted December 4, 2003 Author Posted December 4, 2003 Why would you retro-bolt Death Picnic? You shouldn't bolt "Death Picnic." I believe that the mixed discussion relates to as yet unclimbed lines on the face. Jason Quote
lummox Posted December 4, 2003 Posted December 4, 2003 Jason_Martin said: I believe that the mixed discussion relates to as yet unclimbed lines on the face. unclimbed? presumption on your part. or is a line unclimbed til it gets published. Quote
Jason_Martin Posted December 4, 2003 Author Posted December 4, 2003 Lummox, Educated guesses on the thin stuff. I've interviewed a lot of people and I have some leads on a few things there. But as yet I have heard no "rumors" about these super thin lines aside from the idea that they might be good new wave mixed routes. Jason Quote
Jason_Martin Posted December 4, 2003 Author Posted December 4, 2003 Another Thread about Table Mountain. Quote
Tennessee Posted December 4, 2003 Posted December 4, 2003 Jason_Martin said: I've just received a report from some climbers who went into Table Mountain yesterday. It sounds like there is quite a bit of ice up there. Death Picnic is in but scary. This particular party climbed a route to the left that went at WI 3+. Info on this route will be available on wastateice.net soon. The story is that there is a tremendous amount of ice there right now that doesn't quite touch down. The climbers who were out there yesterday believe that this could be an excellent place for futuristic mixed climbing adventures. Jason True Death Picnic was scary looking, but that's just to me. I bet a good ice climber wouldn't say that though. I'm just not good enough to cast off on ice that steep this early in the season. Besides the first 40 feet on cauliflower steppy stuff, the rest looked pretty fat and blue. And it isn't that the mixed lines aren't touching down, it's that they are just thin. There's tons of lines that go all the way down, but you wouldn't be able to get many screws in, if any. If you had a 600 foot toprope though, they would be a blast. Quote
Dru Posted December 5, 2003 Posted December 5, 2003 i believe i read somewhere in a CAJ that the 3+ near Death Picnic was climbed about 4 or 5 years ago Quote
Tennessee Posted December 5, 2003 Posted December 5, 2003 Dru said: i believe i read somewhere in a CAJ that the 3+ near Death Picnic was climbed about 4 or 5 years ago That might be the one we climbed, not sure. It is pretty accessible and lot's of folks ski up there, I'm sure we weren't the first to try it. There's also another WI3 around on the northeast side of Table that's been climbed, listed in Jason's WA Ice book. I remember looking at it on Sunday, but when we went back on Wednesday it didn't look as good, maybe it just got covered in snow, being so low angled. Quote
philfort Posted December 7, 2003 Posted December 7, 2003 In case anyone is interested, this is what it looked like on Nov 22 (touring around Table mtn) Is the first one Death Picnic? Quote
Tennessee Posted December 9, 2003 Posted December 9, 2003 philfort said: Is the first one Death Picnic? Yes, that first pic looks like DP. Was that second pic taken of the climbs to the right of DP or to the left? A couple friends went back up to climb DP again this sunday, but decided not to lead it. They did, however, set up a belay at the tree at the top of the climb and tr'ed it. They were glad that they didn't lead it, as the ice was steep with that rotten crust over it and there wouldn't have been much pro at all. After talking with several folks who have done routes up in this area, it sounds like these conditions are pretty normal. Quote
Jason_Martin Posted December 11, 2003 Author Posted December 11, 2003 The second picture is "Death Banquet." There will be info on this WI 5+ route coming on the wastateice.net webpage in the near future. Jason Quote
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