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Table Mountain


Jason_Martin

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I've just received a report from some climbers who went into Table Mountain yesterday. It sounds like there is quite a bit of ice up there.

 

Death Picnic is in but scary. This particular party climbed a route to the left that went at WI 3+. Info on this route will be available on wastateice.net soon.

 

The story is that there is a tremendous amount of ice there right now that doesn't quite touch down. The climbers who were out there yesterday believe that this could be an excellent place for futuristic mixed climbing adventures.

 

Jason

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Jason_Martin said:

The climbers who were out there yesterday believe that this could be an excellent place for futuristic mixed climbing adventures.

 

I believe it, though the rock is total mank in some places. I think you'd find it hard to find real solid rock to bolt protect. Blades still work though for the top pitch of Death Picnic, and its off vertical so rests exist.

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Alex said:

Jason_Martin said:

The climbers who were out there yesterday believe that this could be an excellent place for futuristic mixed climbing adventures.

 

I believe it, though the rock is total mank in some places. For Death Picnic I think you'd find it hard to find real solid rock to bolt protect. Blades still work though for the top pitch of that particular route, and its off vertical so rests exist.

 

Why would you retro-bolt Death Picnic?

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Jason_Martin said:

I've just received a report from some climbers who went into Table Mountain yesterday. It sounds like there is quite a bit of ice up there.

 

Death Picnic is in but scary. This particular party climbed a route to the left that went at WI 3+. Info on this route will be available on wastateice.net soon.

 

The story is that there is a tremendous amount of ice there right now that doesn't quite touch down. The climbers who were out there yesterday believe that this could be an excellent place for futuristic mixed climbing adventures.

 

Jason

 

 

True Death Picnic was scary looking, but that's just to me. I bet a good ice climber wouldn't say that though. I'm just not good enough to cast off on ice that steep this early in the season. Besides the first 40 feet on cauliflower steppy stuff, the rest looked pretty fat and blue.

 

And it isn't that the mixed lines aren't touching down, it's that they are just thin. There's tons of lines that go all the way down, but you wouldn't be able to get many screws in, if any. If you had a 600 foot toprope though, they would be a blast. laugh.gif

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Dru said:

i believe i read somewhere in a CAJ that the 3+ near Death Picnic was climbed about 4 or 5 years ago

 

That might be the one we climbed, not sure. It is pretty accessible and lot's of folks ski up there, I'm sure we weren't the first to try it.

 

There's also another WI3 around on the northeast side of Table that's been climbed, listed in Jason's WA Ice book. I remember looking at it on Sunday, but when we went back on Wednesday it didn't look as good, maybe it just got covered in snow, being so low angled.

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philfort said:

Is the first one Death Picnic?

Yes, that first pic looks like DP. Was that second pic taken of the climbs to the right of DP or to the left?

 

A couple friends went back up to climb DP again this sunday, but decided not to lead it. They did, however, set up a belay at the tree at the top of the climb and tr'ed it. They were glad that they didn't lead it, as the ice was steep with that rotten crust over it and there wouldn't have been much pro at all. After talking with several folks who have done routes up in this area, it sounds like these conditions are pretty normal.

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