Juan Posted April 3, 2002 Share Posted April 3, 2002 My wife announced today that she wants to begin her post-ACL surgery climbing with a trip up Mt. Baker. She climbed it at age 16, and wants to go back. What is the best month for the N. Ridge? I've heard various reports about difficult glacier crossings to even get there. Any advice will help us as we set this up. Thanks much, John Sharp Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted April 3, 2002 Share Posted April 3, 2002 just theorizing cause i never climbed N ridge only cole-dem, (but i live next door), i would say, early may if you ski, otherwise late june/early july. based on frieds that have done it... expect 2 pitches of WI3 ice and the rest is all 45-50 degree snow or thereabouts. thats a long way 2 go for two ice pitches! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bronco Posted April 3, 2002 Share Posted April 3, 2002 I was ponderin' the same damn thing as I drove across the HWY 2 trestle today. Yesterday and today would've been fabulous.... But, I like spring conditions and with this current snow pack, we'll probably have them until late June/early July would be my guess. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mattp Posted April 4, 2002 Share Posted April 4, 2002 The best time to climb the North Ridge of Mount Baker is the time that you are interested in doing the climb. No kidding. I have friends who had a great time on the route in April, and I've done it in July and in October (I've also done the Coleman Headwall in January, so that about covers the four seasons). The North Ridge is a scenic climb at any time of the year and, although Dru noted that it is a long way to go if you are looking forward only to the ice pitches, I would say it is a short trip for a climb that feels almost like a genuine big-mountain-big-glacier-ice-climbing kind of thing. Maybe some would question the "bigness" of the route, but I think that Mount Baker has a favorable alpine-to-effort ratio, and the North Ridge in particular does not demand a big effort but allows you to travel in terrain that is usually only found on bigger mountains. Early season, the crevasse crossings will be easy to non-existent. Late season, you will have to wander around a bit and you might even have to climb down into and back out of something so some people will tell you that the Coleman is "impassible" after, say, August. After an early season blizzard in October or November, the Coleman Glacier might be very treacherous. [ 04-03-2002: Message edited by: mattp ] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
genepires Posted April 4, 2002 Share Posted April 4, 2002 I agree with mattp on this but I would like to add that in august, the slopes get very icy. I've done it every month between may and august and they are all doable. The later in the season you wait, the more technical the climb. And by that I mean the slopes below the ice seracs get scarier a far as cruising up without a proper belay. I would expect there to be more belaying on the slopes directly below the ice cliffs as well as the slopes right above the bergshrund. Also, just a little comment. In the last two summers, baker has had two incidences where roped teams plummeted down the mountain. One on north ridge and the other on colemen/deming. If you are tied to someone and you can't self arrest if you or your bud falls, then put in a running belay or untie if the crevasse situation allows. I had a buddy die from being pulled down rainier in icy un-self arrestable conditions. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fairweather Posted April 4, 2002 Share Posted April 4, 2002 quote: Originally posted by Juan: My wife announced today that she wants to begin her post-ACL surgery climbing with a trip up Mt. Baker. She climbed it at age 16, and wants to go back. What is the best month for the N. Ridge? I've heard various reports about difficult glacier crossings to even get there. Any advice will help us as we set this up. Thanks much, John Sharp John, Not really a Baker reply..... I had ACL replacement 3 years ago. I was climbing within 4 months and was back to 100% (+) within 10 months. Had the hamstring graft type w/ "bio-absorbable" screws. Also, went to a soccer-oriented re-hab. (even though I've never played soccer a day in my life) Anyway, tell your wife her new knee will kick ass! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CleeshterFeeshter Posted April 4, 2002 Share Posted April 4, 2002 Juan, I did the North Ridge in late July 97. Partner and I had to do some serious crevasse negotiating right around where the roman nose connects at the bottom. climbed down into two crevasses to access the ridge/ramp leading up to ridge. That was probably the crux. Nice route though, maybe one of the best days in the mountain. You can climb the ridge proper or stray a little to the left and go up and over the ice cliff near the Coleman headwall. I agree with the previous post, North Ridge of Baker gives a good big mtn feel without the committment. You may want to have your running belays with pickets tuned in if the ridge is not icy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
erik Posted April 4, 2002 Share Posted April 4, 2002 i think juan's problem will attempting to keep up with her....... that and most of his normal padners are sketchy.... har har har..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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