bigwalling Posted March 31, 2002 Posted March 31, 2002 I have been wanting to do one of the long sport routes on the Upper Wall at Index. Swim and Sisu are more at my level of climbing. So anybody got info on them? Also any beta Centerfold would be nice. [ 03-31-2002: Message edited by: bigwalling ] Quote
erik Posted April 1, 2002 Posted April 1, 2002 just get daryl cramer's sky valley rock.....it's just a crag, you know the rating, you know how to hikeup there....nuff said....... i think asking for beta on crag routes is stupid..plus your attmept to create some sort of online guide to index on the rockclimbing.com webpage indicates that you already have the ability to copy the beta verbatium from the guidebook....is that not called plagerism.....? just go climb it...... and heres the beta, i'll quit ranting... its graniteits beautifulthey are all proud routes. Quote
bigwalling Posted April 1, 2002 Author Posted April 1, 2002 Dude, I don't believe in coping out of the book. The stuff I have written is all in my own words. I could never get close to making something as nice as his book. I also don't intend to. Which parts are straight out of the book? Quote
rayborbon Posted April 1, 2002 Posted April 1, 2002 I never did it but that Davis Holland to Lovin Arms looks great. I hear it's great too... Quote
ScottP Posted April 1, 2002 Posted April 1, 2002 Sisu seemed somewhat contrived to me, though it did have some fun moves on it. The first pitch is really dirty due to much water flowing on it. If you are intent on doing it to the top, so be it, but otherwise, I suggest rapping from the top of the 6th. Davis Holland-Lovin Arms, while not a sport route, is a must do. Beware the seep on the first Lovin Arms pitch. I almost greased out and cratered on that thing. Centerfold is one of my favorite routes at Index. The pitch that goes through the roof is really cool. It starts out on a 10c slab past bolts and then pulls through the roof at 5.8. The last pitch up the 10c corner is really fun also. I know this isn't really beta, but like Erik says, just go do them. Quote
Matt_Anderson Posted April 1, 2002 Posted April 1, 2002 beta? quote: The last pitch up the 10c corner is really fun also .10c my ass. Or are you just trollin? Matt Quote
erik Posted April 1, 2002 Posted April 1, 2002 quote: Originally posted by Matt Anderson: beta? .10c my ass. Or are you just trollin?Matt yeah i thought it was all of .10d...........and i dont like fishin......... Quote
ScottP Posted April 1, 2002 Posted April 1, 2002 quote: Originally posted by Matt Anderson: beta? .10c my ass. Or are you just trollin?Matt I can't lead 10d, so it must have been 10c... Quote
Matt_Anderson Posted April 1, 2002 Posted April 1, 2002 Yeah, and Royal Robbins can only lead 5.9 . . . Quote
ScottP Posted April 1, 2002 Posted April 1, 2002 quote: Originally posted by Matt Anderson: Yeah, and Royal Robbins can only lead 5.9 . . . Relax Matt. No need to get your panties in a bind.The little winky thing is there to say "Don't take this post so seriously." It seemed 10c to me at the time I led it, which was a few years ago. Quote
Jens Posted April 3, 2002 Posted April 3, 2002 Of the routes being discussed: Centerfold (as well as much of index) is perhaps overhyped in my humble opinion. Swim is really footworky and felt really stout for the grade. DH to Lovin' arms is one of the few free routes up there that sees enough traffic to stay somewhat clean. So many of those bolted routes up there were scrubbed big time with a wire brush (about 12 years ago), saw a short period of traffic and then grew over. -not much fun Just my two centsI'm in the minority on these thoughts though.I rarely go to index anymore Quote
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