Mental Approach

[Distel32]

If you are going for a hard redpoint, onsight, flash, or boulder problem, what are some things you try to do mentally to prepare? I feel that the harder I climb, strength is even more so an issue but so is the mental side.

 

For my bouldering it seems that the harder ones I try there is usually (obviously not always) one move that is harder than the rest. Sometime it is hard for me to keep my cool if I get past that move from the start and finish the problem.

 

How do you prepare mentally? I think this applies to all facets of climbing when you are trying to breakthrough.

 

I try to stay calm and always distract myself when I start the problem. Think about the moves before hand, but then sing a song or try to think of another problem I did and battling through it. Sometimes this works, but then there are always problems where you just need to dig a little dipper and scream and it works. "GRRRUUHHHHH"

[specialed]

I make sure to burn the petuli oil of brotherly love incense and

make sure my rasta knit-cap is properly situated on my dreads.

[lummox]

smile. enjoy the butterflies cause they should be there. concentrate on the now and the inevitable will come.

[Mtguide]

There was a big discussion on this 11/17/03 in this forum in the thread titled 'Rock Warrior's Way',if you were,uh,paying attention.Click on the index to this forum and check it out.

 

RROOOOOCK!!!!!!

[slothrop]

Distel32 said:"GRRRUUHHHHH"

 

Rock 'n Ice also recommends "BZZZAATTT!".

[lummox]

be the ball

[EWolfe]

slothrop said:

Distel32 said:"GRRRUUHHHHH"

 

Rock 'n Ice also recommends "BZZZAATTT!".

 

That was a great Samet article!

[sk]

I think my bigest challenge is to "see" a route. I tend to just jump on things and flail arround rather then trying to mentaly prepare for a climb, and logicly try to think out the problems it presents. When I slow down visualize and think the climb threw I am more successful.

[Dr_Flash_Amazing]

slothrop said:

Distel32 said:"GRRRUUHHHHH"

 

Rock 'n Ice also recommends "BZZZAATTT!".

 

DFA prefers "BIP!" or "BAM!" or "BPOAW!" or "HYIT!" or something like that, but every once in a while, a "GYYYYAAAAAAHHHH!!!" is what you really need. Seriously, that shit helps, especially on deadpoints and dynos. Also in that vein, the Doctor will holler at or make demands of himself or certain moves or holds, like "c'mon, fucker!", or "come here!", that type of thing; specific commands with the aim of bolstering the physical effort, focusing, following through, etc.

 

And before going for an onsight, etc., spending a lot of time looking over everything, studying all the holds and trying to see a path through the route, trying to solve the sequences, looking for sucker holds to avoid, etc. Look for the rests, remind yourself to get psyched if you know where the crux is, etc.

 

Then lace up your good shoes (DFA reserves the lace-ups for onsight/flash attemps and redpoint burns), top off your chalkbag, calm yourself, focus, and go for it.

[Distel32]

This summer in squamish we said "BANG" a lot, mainly every time you stuck a hold you were required to yell bang as if you killed the hold.

 

Funniest saying ever: It was raining and we were at "Fixing the car" in squamish (very low to the ground roof, really a joke, but it was the only thing dry), Jason had gotten through the crux and was about to make the last few moves and Wes yells out, "Fix that shit yo!!!" everybody instantly laughs, jason loses it and falls and never sends.......

[carolyn]

Frame of mind is soooo important to me.

 

Last year at this time I was barely able to get my ass up a .7

 

My last rock climb of this season was an onsight of an .11 (t.r)

 

first and foremost i have to believe in myself. I convince myself one way or another that I CAN do this. If I dont get myself in that mind frame I will flail and possibly not meet my goal of completing the climb.

 

Deep breaths before I start.

 

Studying the route. I dont do as well when I watch someone climb it first. Much better when I have an open mind.

 

Shutting my mind down. I cant seem to do this all the time. My best climbing comes when the thinking is done and left on the ground. When I climb I just need to move...thats all there is to it! (easier said than done, I know).

 

silly thing...When I onsighted my first .10 I was soooo gonna fall and I thought to myself, "I can climb with the big boys". It doesnt have such a literal meaning to me. Basically, I want to climb at a level where I can have the freedom to climb what I want. Ive used that phrase in my head in times of need (I try not to abuse it) and it has never failed me. I think it gets my mind back in the phase of believing in myself AND it forces me to breath, which I often forget to do.

 

Another silly thing...I will sometimes talk with the rock. Not to myself, but the rock itself. When Im struggling or expecting a struggle, its easy for me to think its ME against IT. When the reality (or delusion) is that we are there together.

 

When I lead, which isnt too often right now, I decide its not okay to fall. This...I believe...holds me back a lot!

 

Calling out for my mommy and banging my head on the rock (yes, Im a helmet type folk) does wonders in extreme emergencies. Chewing gum and humming a song is vital!

Edited November 20, 2003 by carolyn

[slothrop]

Dr_Flash_Amazing said:"c'mon, fucker!"

 

My personal favorite. On a hard lead, I make it sound way harder than it is by cursing voluminously. Helps to focus, though.