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my favorite climb at josh is RUN FOR YOUR LIFE (10b) on the tumbling rainbow (real hidden valley). i always thought it was the total jt experience, cool climb, crux at the top, visible from all over the area, cool "summit", scary-but-not-really-that-hard scrambling descent. now there are rap bolts at the top, but i highly recommend downclimbing anyway, it's like a mini-canyoneering adventure past the secret yucca grove, the overhanging wall of huecos, etc.

 

real hidden valley has tons of good moderate stuff, locomotion rock is good, also sail away. heck, intersection rock has some great easy climbs, the flake, overhang bypass... you can always get away from the crowds by going into the wonderland, but you probably won't need to - there's several weeks worth of great stuff within a 10 minute walk of hidden valley CG.

 

echo cove is good this time of year, south facing and more-or-less protected from the wind. heart and sole is the classic here, along with falcon & the snowman if you are feeling like runout slab climbing...

 

hard to go too far wrong on your first trip, there's so much there! also really fun just to go get lost in the wonderland on rest/bad weather days.

Posted
Off_White said:

Oh, and what's that route that traverses above the roofs on the Freak Brother's formation out in the Wonderland? 5.9 I think? Maybe old style Joshua

Tree 5.9? I've never done it, but wanted to.

 

Walk on the Wild Side is a fun multi-pitch 5.8 face climb out on Saddle Rocks.

 

More Monkey Than Funky can be a swinging good time.

 

I always liked Moosedog Tower in Indian Cove, 5.8ish crack with roof, but maybe that's just because I like the punnish reference. Had a fun event with a couple rangers there too, but thats more of a campfire story...

 

Can't Believe It's A Girdle? Haven't climbed it but I hear it's pretty wild. One that I appreciated is Rock Candy (as an example of an appropriately bolted face climb).

Posted

YES! That's it, I knew it had a great name to match the position. Having done On The Lamb in Tuoloumne this summer, I've got a total jones for those traverse routes, lead or follow, it's much the same. Top of my list...

Posted

Yeah, the Freak Brothers is a WILD looking formation.

 

I can't Believe it's a Girdle is almost certainly an engaging route if you're up to it -- it's rated R or X for the follower, and I recall someone dying on it a few years back (it's in ANAM, forget which year). . .

 

What a wild rock formation though! It's especially cool to check out the huge rock debris at the base, where the bottom of the roof separated from the main formation and casted off. Crazy.

 

 

 

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