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debate fodder: lots of new climbers


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chucK said:

Found this cool trip report today on rec.climbing. Check it out.


It's a good read about someone's desire to send a difficult heady route. Something tells me that were there a few more bolts placed on this route it would be a whole different story, or there wouldn't even be a story.


I suspect your observartions are entirely too correct! My hardest, most technical on-sight....I can't even remember the name of the stupid thing. Clip, do a move. Clip, do a move. One of these I-90 feel good climbs. The same year, I did a climb two full number grades (that's 8 letter grades) easier in the City of Rocks, but it only had two or maybe three bolts. It was an old Jeff Lowe climb, and I remember everything....EVERYTHING about it. And the funny thing is, because I had to climb with such concentration, with such precision....because every move had to be measured and contemplated, then stored away in memory in case down climbing was required....I think the climb in Idaho was physically harder than the sport route at WWI.


Thanks for the link, Chuck. One of my favorite books is Climb! by Bog Godfrey and Dudley Chelton. Colorado has a fascinating climbing history. I love to pick up that book on a rainy night, get a beer, and put on a little Jimmy Rogers.

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