Paco Posted November 10, 2003 Posted November 10, 2003 On Saturday November 8th JayB and I climbed a 5 pitch mainly ice line on Mt. Shuksan between the Upper Curtis Glacier and the Sulphide Glacier. The route is approximately 200 meters left of Hells Highway. P1: Climb corners and ramps on rock left of the overhanging ice for 60m to access the ice above. 5.?? P2: Traverse right 5m onto the ice and then climb for 60m. WI3+ P3-P4: Climb ice for two 60m pitches. WI2 P5: Climb glacial ice and neve for 60m to top out on the Sulphide. AI2 I have not found any information about this line from talking to people, or from Fred’s guide, or from Alex and Jason’s new ice guide. Does anyone have any information about the line that JayB and I climbed (i.e. name, rating, previous ascents)? If it doesn’t already have a name, I propose calling it “Satan’s Sidewalk.” Satan’s Sidewalk WI3+ 5.?? 250m Notes: - If the bottom pitch comes in it would probably be an awesome WI4 or 5 pitch. - The views from the climb are absolutely beautiful. The whole time you have Mt. Baker behind you and a very crevassed Upper Curtis Glacier below you. Go get it boys. Whack ‘em tools. You want ice; get this before the snow comes. Someone else climb it and tell me what you would rate the first pitch. I haven’t climbed much rock in crampons so I don’t have a feel for the rating. The first pitch was the crux of the route, though. Pictures are posted in the gallery. Picture 1: The Route Picture 2: Traverse Picture 3: Scary belay Picture 4: JayB climbing ice. Picture 5: Another pic of JayB climbing ice. A Trip Report might follow, as there were some good moments like climbing the last pitches in the dark by headlamp and topping out to a beautiful moon and clear sky. Quote
sobo Posted November 10, 2003 Posted November 10, 2003 Paco, Nice job, but please edit the URL address on Picture #5. It appears to have a double "http" in it, and I can't get it to stay up long enuff to edit it meself. Quote
JayB Posted November 10, 2003 Posted November 10, 2003 Posted some more photos of the route in the Ice gallery.... Looking up at the first mixed pitch Paco leading the mixed pitch Paco manning the first belay atop P1 Paco heading up to the anchor atop P2 Quote
sobo Posted November 10, 2003 Posted November 10, 2003 JayB said: Paco heading up to the anchor atop P2 Looks like that sunny weather just a few minutes earlier has disappeared... Quote
Dru Posted November 10, 2003 Posted November 10, 2003 purty looking route this thing is to right of the Hourglass, as seen in photo p. 66 Beckey, is directly under the g in Glass as shown on the photo? Quote
ken4ord Posted November 3, 2004 Posted November 3, 2004 Did anyone ese get on this thing, or are you guys the onlys now? Quote
Lepton Posted November 6, 2004 Posted November 6, 2004 Paco, I am duly impressed. This climb is beautiful and from the pictures and your description I think it should become a late Fall or early Winter classic. Do you think that in mid-Winter there will be too much snow? Quote
Alex Posted November 8, 2004 Posted November 8, 2004 Damn in late season that thing gets downright benign Quote
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