MysticNacho Posted March 20, 2002 Share Posted March 20, 2002 I'm looking to spend the night in the west face cave on the monkey face. Haven't ever been in the cave, anyone know if its big enough to sleep in? Anybody ever done it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted March 20, 2002 Share Posted March 20, 2002 yup, never slept but spent some time there. there are big bolts to anchor to as well. its kinda windy though. and the floor slopes down about 10 degrees. see in the top of the picture? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
genepires Posted March 20, 2002 Share Posted March 20, 2002 Is that the one on the pioneer route? If so, it is big enough for a bunch of people to sleep in. Maybe a dozen could fit in there. Would be a good time. Is there a problem with leaving your car in the parking lot overnight? If you are staying in the state park campground, then you have no problem. Enjoy! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rbw1966 Posted March 20, 2002 Share Posted March 20, 2002 Its big enough to sleep in, although the east-facing cave is far roomier. Hauling to either cave would be a snap. Also, given the popularity of this route be prepared for lots of company and an early wake-up. Almost every time I've been to Monkey Face, Outward Bound has had a cattle train of 8-15 climbers heading up it. Usually around daybreak. I'd rant about this practice but I'd be willing to bet I'm not in the minority on this. Oh--and its not legal to camp in the park. But you already knew that and were just asking hypothetically right? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MysticNacho Posted March 20, 2002 Author Share Posted March 20, 2002 No, I'm talking about the other cave (the one that makes up the monkey's ear, not the pioneer route cave. Sleeping in that one would be a bitch, rolling around everywhere! Got any pics of the other cave Dru? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rbw1966 Posted March 20, 2002 Share Posted March 20, 2002 quote: Originally posted by MysticNacho: No, I'm talking about the other cave (the one that makes up the monkey's ear, not the pioneer route cave. Sleeping in that one would be a bitch, rolling around everywhere! Got any pics of the other cave Dru? You mean the east facing cave? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MysticNacho Posted March 20, 2002 Author Share Posted March 20, 2002 Its west face. I swear its west face. Don't make me bust out the guidebook. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted March 20, 2002 Share Posted March 20, 2002 you mean the one on monkey space or what? i dont got no pix of that one. cant free it yet. heard bolts were sketchy as of last fall too, some friends retreated. Personally i think you could sleep under the Nose boulder, flat and dry. Then get the first Base jump at sunrise. woo hoo! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted March 20, 2002 Share Posted March 20, 2002 quote: Originally posted by MysticNacho: Its west face. I swear its west face. Don't make me bust out the guidebook. NW face? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MysticNacho Posted March 20, 2002 Author Share Posted March 20, 2002 That's it, the guidebook came out. I'm talking about climbing the West Face route, number #18 in the Watts guide. 5.12 A1 into the West Face Cave. Not climbing monkey space either, I heard the bolts were real sketchy too. BASE jumping is scary, no way. Watched a guy jump from the nose though, which was fun enough for me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rbw1966 Posted March 20, 2002 Share Posted March 20, 2002 quote: Originally posted by Dru: you mean the one on monkey space or what? i dont got no pix of that one. cant free it yet. heard bolts were sketchy as of last fall too, some friends retreated. This is incorrect. I have freed it. There is one sketchy bolt just below the cave that can be backed up with a cam but you lose the use of the pocket. The route goes at 5.11b I believe. Getting out of the cave is the crux in my opinion. The exposure is gripping. This cave is east facing and a perfect spot for bivy but of course, illegally. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rbw1966 Posted March 20, 2002 Share Posted March 20, 2002 I am a retard. Every reference to "east" was meant as "west". Sorry Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MysticNacho Posted March 20, 2002 Author Share Posted March 20, 2002 Its only illegal if you get caught. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted March 20, 2002 Share Posted March 20, 2002 quote: Originally posted by MysticNacho: Its only illegal if you get caught. And then you get to spend a year making Omega Pacific carabiners Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mtngrrrl Posted March 21, 2002 Share Posted March 21, 2002 i just read on smithrocks.com that you cannot camp in your car at the state park. d'oh! we were planning to sleep in our vehicle in the parking lot while some friends tented. except for the steamy windows, who would know, right?? having never been to smith before, can anyone tell me how rabid the rangers are? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
erik Posted March 21, 2002 Share Posted March 21, 2002 quote: Originally posted by mtngrrrl: i just read on smithrocks.com that you cannot camp in your car at the state park. d'oh! we were planning to sleep in our vehicle in the parking lot while some friends tented. except for the steamy windows, who would know, right?? having never been to smith before, can anyone tell me how rabid the rangers are? they will bother you....either a kindly elderly person or a less kind elderly person.... just camp at the grasslands, bon fires and no water but waaaayyyyyyyyyyyyyyyy beter scene....forest ranger rollz thru monday late am...have your toyz picked up...... cruel sister and the one to the left of it are very fine .10a's......and some other one by the cat wall.......meow!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MysticNacho Posted March 21, 2002 Author Share Posted March 21, 2002 I remember the second time I went there we woke up the resident ranger/warden person at 2am trying to find the grasslands.... and if any other rangers are like her, you have nothing to worry about. She wasn't even angry. I wouldn't push it though. Although I have slept in the car in the regular campground parking lot without a hitch. I've never seen the rangers put out any effort to enforce anything, but who cares, camp in the grasslands, you'll have ten times more fun anyway. [ 03-20-2002: Message edited by: MysticNacho ] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dbb Posted March 21, 2002 Share Posted March 21, 2002 Some friends of mine did the west face aid route and ran out of time. They spent the night in the West cave (read: not "the mouth") and said it wasn't too bad. ... and yeah, camp at the grasslands. It's a short drive and it's free. Park your car by the bivi area and you'll get no overnight car hassles. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Country_Jake Posted March 21, 2002 Share Posted March 21, 2002 Your east of the cascades there... all the hardnosed liberal tree huggin' rangers live over hear in the western part of the state... you just have to deal with the ruff necks... that cowboy country out of Redmond. I wouldn't worry too much about over night stays if your not in the camp ground... Just find a cool spot and squat for a day or two. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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