eternalX Posted October 21, 2003 Posted October 21, 2003 I understand that climbing like most other things, a lot of it is experience, but often there are some good rules of thumb. I'd be interested in either reading material or anything that sticks out in your mind to focus on when you're climbing. Cheers Quote
Jopa Posted October 21, 2003 Posted October 21, 2003 eternalX said: anything that sticks out in your mind to focus on when you're climbing. I would have to say "nothing". In my short tenure, the times when I am able to focus on nothing is when I have climbed at my personal best. Don't envision yourself moving forward; just move forward. Quote
Dr_Flash_Amazing Posted October 21, 2003 Posted October 21, 2003 (edited) Skip that "focus on nothing" Yoda shit and focus on something. Your footwork, body position, and breathing are a great start. Edit: Like jopa said, focus on nothing! Edited October 21, 2003 by Dr_Flash_Amazing Quote
Jopa Posted October 21, 2003 Posted October 21, 2003 Dr_Flash_Amazing said: Skip that "focus on nothing" Yoda shit and focus on something. Your footwork, body position, and breathing are a great start. That's what I'm talking about Doc! Quote
Dr_Flash_Amazing Posted October 21, 2003 Posted October 21, 2003 Jopa said: That's what I'm talking about Doc! Oops! Lo siento mucho! Quote
AmberBuxom Posted October 22, 2003 Posted October 22, 2003 your legs are stronger than your arms. for you grigri users: dont be the hand. for aid climbing: step up. works for iceclimbing too. (the tip refers to people tending to match feet at the same level and climbing more slowly as a result). Quote
eternalX Posted October 22, 2003 Author Posted October 22, 2003 Dr_Flash_Amazing said: Skip that "focus on nothing" Yoda shit and focus on something. Your footwork, body position, and breathing are a great start. Edit: Like jopa said, focus on nothing! Can you detail anything more on any of those? Like "Always try to keep your body as close to the rock as possible" or "It's better to reach higher then wider with your feet" or whatever. Again, I'm not saying that these things exist, just asking. Quote
iain Posted October 22, 2003 Posted October 22, 2003 I'm no pro, but if stuff starts seeming impossible, try turning a hip in and dropping a knee. Quote
iain Posted October 22, 2003 Posted October 22, 2003 oh and here's a sweet photo on rockclimbing.com recently Quote
adventuregal Posted October 22, 2003 Posted October 22, 2003 Ahhh... just look at those beautiful chalky holds... How scenic. Quote
iain Posted October 22, 2003 Posted October 22, 2003 did dwayner grab your login info? btw dwayner, .13a, hop on it! Quote
Al_Pine Posted October 22, 2003 Posted October 22, 2003 AmberBuxom said: your legs are stronger than your arms. What Amber said...use your feet. When you start getting so pumped you're sure you're going to fall, concentrate on your feet. Always be on the lookout for stems. If the holds are there, take baby steps. Visualize sticking instead of slipping. Try to keep your feet dry. Don't give up on trying to learn to handjam! Quote
carolyn Posted October 22, 2003 Posted October 22, 2003 Jopa said: eternalX said: anything that sticks out in your mind to focus on when you're climbing. I would have to say "nothing". In my short tenure, the times when I am able to focus on nothing is when I have climbed at my personal best. Don't envision yourself moving forward; just move forward. I second (or third ) this idea. I try to get all my thinking out of the way BEFORE I start climbing. Deep breaths are always helpful...and remember to keep breathing while you are climbing. When you are beginning it takes a lot of mental energy to climb because you are constantly thinking about your feet, balance, the next hold, the best technique to use (stemming, smearing, edging, manteling, jamming, etc). Once you become more proficient your body starts moving without having to think so hard on how to use it. I believe this is refered to as engrams. One thing that has helped me to practice climbing without thinking about anything is to get on routes that are super easy OR do some of your favorite routes a number of times. When I get on harder routes, I then find it easier to get myself into the 'zone'. You asked about reading material. I would highly recommend "Performance Rock Climbing" by Dale Goddard and Udo Neumann. It talks a bunch about engrams, performance, mental and phyical training, etc. Most important, just make sure it is fun. Quote
Jopa Posted October 22, 2003 Posted October 22, 2003 carolyn said: Most important, just make sure it is fun. Quote
Dr_Flash_Amazing Posted October 22, 2003 Posted October 22, 2003 iain said: oh and here's a sweet photo on rockclimbing.com recently Why'd they Pho'Shop the rope out but not the harness? Or is the resolution just shitty and you can't see the cord? Good shot, though. That's a very unusual angle. Looks like it was taken from the top of the Phoenix (the toilet, not the buttress). Quote
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