cascades alpine rack

[IceIceBaby]

I don’t want to spry too much here but I have another question

What you will say is the typical cascades ultralight gear rack for a mix of snow ice and rock

[erik]

do a search i know this topic has been gone over a few times......

depends on what you are doing though really.....i mean the girth pillars now and rock would definaly needs a different rack then say e wilman spire......

there are always the trade offs, speed vs all the crap you want to bring.....i try to be flexable to what needs and conditions dictate......

[Alex]

IceIceBaby, I am guessing you mean more for winter/spring climbs than summer climbs.

Depending on the route, but I typically carry something like the following

up to 5 ice screws - usually 10cm, 13cm, and some TI 17cm screws. I will carry alot more screws on a known snow/ice climbArcaeopteryx ice hookv-threader and v-thread material. This doubles as prussik cords in a pinchscreamers (I have 3) and slings/drawscams: from yellow alien to *2 camamlot, usually carry 2-3, so maybe yellow alien, #1 camalot, #2 camalotnuts: half set of the smaller sizes. For really large placements you can jam a knot.Pins: Ive found Bugaboos and KBs through LA to baby angle to be most effective sizes. Usually carry 4-5 pins.maybe a picketprobably a deadman

Alex

[Jens]

I try to keep in mind the geology of the area.

*A lot of the WA peaks are made up of pretty compact rock. Unless you are climbing a granite peak you can often sneak by with never bringing along any thing lager than a #1.5 friend. On the northeast face of Johannesberg I din't see a crack the whole day larger than a quarter of an inch.

*INMHO WA winter climbers should replace some of their pickets with more deadmen.

*You will almost never need as many screws as people say for a winter alpine route in this state.

*Lots of people get into the "It's winter or I'm ice climbing so my next rock placement will be a piton." - the cracks aren't always iced up in the winter. Think fast and light. Easy in easy out.

I'm sure the next guy who posts will have his or her own opinions. Bottom line/ whatever fits your style for fast effecient climbing.

just my two cents

"climb hard" ---Rheinhold Whittaker

[dberdinka]

On Skagit Gneiss found on the likes of Eldo, Forbidden, Goode, Black, etc., I've found you can get by with very little. I usually bring about 4-6 stoppers (every other size to an 11 or 12), 2-3 small to medium Metolius 3-cams (#1, #3, #5) and 2 hand size hexs. Throw in 4 shoulder slings with biners, some extras of both and some belay stuff and you're good to go.

1-2 pickets might come along if there is some significant glacier travel or lots of steep snow.

Generally bring an 8mm rope and double it up if anything really serious comes along and simu-climb single strand. Maybe a little sketchy, but...I'm still alive...I think.

[Dru]

i usually take 3 rurps, a cliff hanger, duct tape, blowtorch, Lovetron and 6 pack of maudite, plus an extra pee bottle and a dozen #3 RPs.

[W]

quote:

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Originally posted by Dru:

i usually take 3 rurps, a cliff hanger, duct tape, blowtorch, Lovetron and 6 pack of maudite, plus an extra pee bottle and a dozen #3 RPs.

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Don't you take your Pocket Pussy along too? Or is that only on longer climbs?

[Dru]

quote:

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Originally posted by W:

Don't you take your Pocket Pussy along too? Or is that only on longer climbs?

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what do you think the extra pee bottle is for?

[IceIceBaby]

quote:

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Originally posted by Dru:

i usually take 3 rurps, a cliff hanger, duct tape, blowtorch, Lovetron and 6 pack of maudite and a dozen #3 RPs.

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Is that before or after you kill for the gear

[rayborbon]

Dont forget your air voyagers

[Dru]

quote:

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Originally posted by rayborbon:

Dont forget your air voyagers

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Those are only for people who fall off.