Alpine Days around 11W.

[fern]

given that there's a fire closure in Ingalls Ck, and

missing bridges in the Icicle, are there any suggestions

of alpine routes (5.9 or easier) in the Alpine Lakes area

that can be done as a daytrip from Leavenworth area?

Long day is fine - I'm tuff

[erik]

dead baby goat.

7 miles into temple canyon(lots of elevation)

700ft of jam cracks. tho it is .10-, but like ya said you are tough!!

one rap off the summit and walk back out!

and you validate my already fragile ego!

[Crackbolter]

Beat it a little harder eh Eric?

 

Yellow Jacket Tower would be a good choice for a good day alpine trip. The other would be The North Face of the Mole but the daylight is getting less and if you've never been up Hook Creek you might think about saving it until next summer. There isn't much access right now into the Stuart range so you might consider another range or just cragging like the rest of us.

[mattp]

Prussik Peak. It's a long way to go for a day climb in my book, but lots of people do it that way and although it is not huge, it is one of the most visually striking granite peaks in the State. The Beckey Route on the South Face is 5.9, I think, and the W. Ridge is 5.7. The Burger-Stanley, also on the South FAce, slightly harder at 5.10a if I remember correctly. I've climbed all three and they are truly outstanding routes in a very beautiful setting. The approach via Snow Creek is not much further than going in from the Eightmile side and overall it may even be easier.

[erik]

Crackbolter said:

Beat it a little harder eh Erik?

 

to death!

 

fern another option would be to start at the lower 8mile buttress and just work your way up and up and up....some dirt hiking, some dirt climbing, some nice rock. gives a faux alpine feel and allows you to cover some ground.

 

 

 

 

[Toast]

Crackbolter said:

Yellow Jacket Tower would be a good choice for a good day alpine trip.

 

Yellow Jacket Tower has about a third of a pitch of fun climbing, but the approach is up a long, steep hill that erodes with each step. Party inflicted rockfall is likely on the upper half of the apprach. All in all, this is one I'd leave alone

[Al_Pine]

You did Prussik last year, right?

 

The Mt. Maude/Seven Finger Jack area is fairly close to there.

 

What about Lighthouse Tower or Toketie Wall? I have no first-hand beta but it seems like there's been some good sprayin' on CC.com about those places this year.

[Crackbolter]

Toast said:

Crackbolter said:

Yellow Jacket Tower would be a good choice for a good day alpine trip.

 

 

Yellow Jacket Tower has about a third of a pitch of fun climbing, but the approach is up a long, steep hill that erodes with each step. Party inflicted rockfall is likely on the upper half of the apprach. All in all, this is one I'd leave alone

I thought it would be a good alpine daytrip considering Prussik is 20 miles round trip and the daylight is less than 12 hours. Yellowjacket is about an hour and a half approach but still has interesting alpine appeal. I've hiked into the Hook Creek drainage a few times and have never had an issue with party inflicted rockfall. The trail is pretty straight forward actually. Just a little dusty in mid summer. The climbing is pretty straight forward as well and not too difficult.

 

Both Toketie and Lighthouse Tower would be equally as commiting as Prussik. Eric has a good idea.

 

An then of course...clip, clip, clip on Condor Buttress.

 

Edited October 7, 2003 by Crackbolter

[erik]

Al_Pine said:

What about Lighthouse Tower or Toketie Wall? I have no first-hand beta but it seems like there's been some good sprayin' on CC.com about those places this year.

 

HAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA

 

YUP THEY BE OUT THERE...THO I DONT THINK EITHER QUALIFY FOR A NICE DAY IN THE MTNS...MORE LIKE A BEAT DOWN.....

 

GO FOR IT FERN!!!!

 

 

[fern]

I did the W.Ridge of Prusik last year. It was a good day

with some challenges. Daylight doesn't matter much if you

are hiking on good trails.

 

Where is this Lighthouse tower?

[erik]

itz in temple canyon!!!! no way to the summit with out rope trickery!!!!!!!

 

e face has some objectives!!!!

 

[Dru]

what about that east ridge/Ne face of the professor huh?

[erik]

dan and ben just sent that last week, e face that is

 

lotsa ow and chim climbing....

 

[thelawgod]

Toast said:

Crackbolter said:

Yellow Jacket Tower would be a good choice for a good day alpine trip.

 

Yellow Jacket Tower has about a third of a pitch of fun climbing, but the approach is up a long, steep hill that erodes with each step. Party inflicted rockfall is likely on the upper half of the apprach. All in all, this is one I'd leave alone

 

What a pussy. The approach at most takes 1 hour, and the climbing, while easy, is memorable and in a beautiful setting. Kind of cool to straddle the tiny summit while overlooking icicle canyon IMHO.

 

[Dru]

erik said:

dan and ben just sent that last week, e face that is

 

lotsa ow and chim climbing....

 

[gnibmilc]

the Nada Crags are a pretty cool couple of pitches above...Nada Lake. Lighthouse Tower is a pain in the ass to not finish...Temple Peak...not too much climbing but qualifies as alpine and good for 5.4. the High Priest has a good name.

[russ]

gnibmilc said:

the Nada Crags are a pretty cool couple of pitches above...Nada Lake.

 

Tell me more. Saw a couple of nice slabs on the east side of the lake hiking into the enchantments. Wonder if there were any routes established.

 

[Dru]

is ingalls pk still closed due to fire? i hear it is that good red orangerock (olivine/peridotite) like twin sisters and old settler

[Al_Pine]

Ingalls does have cool rock and some wild boulders around the lake. But...if it isn't closed, it is a pretty sizeable drive from the Icicle (> 1 hour?)

[erik]

Al_Pine said:

Ingalls does have cool rock and some wild boulders around the lake. But...if it isn't closed, it is a pretty sizeable drive from the Icicle (> 2 hour?)

[Dru]

what if you thru-hike from the 8 mile creek/mtneers creek road? past stuart instead of driving around? day trip or no?

[erik]

Dru said:

what if you thru-hike from the 8 mile creek/mtneers creek road? past stuart instead of driving around? day trip or no?

 

like 15 or so miles one way

 

[Dru]

erik said:

Dru said:

what if you thru-hike from the 8 mile creek/mtneers creek road? past stuart instead of driving around? day trip or no?

 

like 15 or so miles one way

 

 

pffff! so like 2 hours for me and my homey Dan - right!!!

[cracked]

Dru said:

is ingalls pk still closed due to fire? i hear it is that good red orangerock (olivine/peridotite) like twin sisters and old settler

It was supposed to be closed, at least, everything but the S face, but Skykilo and I climbed the ER anyway. This was last weekend.

[gnibmilc]

russ said:

gnibmilc said:

the Nada Crags are a pretty cool couple of pitches above...Nada Lake.

 

Tell me more. Saw a couple of nice slabs on the east side of the lake hiking into the enchantments. Wonder if there were any routes established.

 

 

I've not visited those slabs. The stuff I climbed is on the other side of the lake. If you look above the boulder field (hikers right from icicle, west side) you'll see a prominent roof. the horizontal crack in a kind of sound room is the highlight. Mr. Beckey wrote about it in the book on the area and I think mentions the slabs that you photographed.