a couple of notes about boltin/ trad issues

[glassgowkiss]

a couple of points to consider, which poped out during the latest .

first of all, what i don't understand is why anti- bolting population can't accept sport climbing as a valid activity. why does it have to be their way?

second- usually bolting has nothing to do with access issues- look at Hueco- there was just bouldering. usually climbing areas get closed not because of fact of bolting, but because of the activity of climbing itself. so both sides are effected.

third- in a lot of "trad areas" there is a lot of garbage littering the walls. useless rusted pitons, stuck cams with broken cables and slings, useless wires, bashies, slings and so on. have you looked into the crack of outerspace? few dosen stoppers, slings and other dropped gear inside. look at more popular routes in yosemite.

personaly sometimes i'd rather see a well camuflaged bolt then some rusted pitonor other garbage (which by the way can't trust after a couple of years).

let's face it- 3 decades of big wall/alpine climbing in North America left way more useless shit on rock then the whole sport climbing crowd combined. even more- the same people crying out now about bolting issues and preserving rock for future generations are guilty of the most massive chip job. just look at the lines on walls like elcap!

talking more about estetics- did few climbs in canyonlands and saw a massive "skid mark" from a cam grinding into soft sandstone. it's not such uncommon thing.

these are some thoughts for all of you out there with hollier the thou attitude- i climb trad/aid, so i am not guilty of anything

[jordop]

.

Edited June 11, 2021 by jordop

[layton]

Either do the line and bail cuz it's runout and wait for the future (which is a way fucking cool and anit-ego way to be)

 

Or, bolt it and do a cool sport pitch on your alpine route. Anti bolts = anti cool lines that wouldn't be done nt. Fuck you dumbfucks. I haven't ever placed a bolt, but goddamnit, I would if I could.

[erik]

bob,

 

i may be wrong, but i think boting did contribute to some of the closures at heuco. i can remember reading someting about skinner and piana sneaking into the park at night to bolt stuff.

 

and secondly i think most of the tradlies do sport climb. i know i do.

[Peter_Puget]

THanks for the sanity GK. I noticed how you mention concrete examples. How many of the "holier than thou" crowd here even know the real facts behind some of the routes that have been discussed. I bet very few. They are simply "theorists.'

[lummox]

off-white has messed with this thread to the point that it makes no sense to me anymore.

glasskowpiss takes single subjective observations and makes generalized conclusions. there are many examples of where bolting affected access. yosemite. city of rocks. cave rock. and on and on. btw 3 'points' are not a 'couple'.

ah screw it. im too 'poped' out to underscore further inaccuracies. later fools.

[Rodchester]

first of all, what i don't understand is why anti- bolting population can't accept sport climbing as a valid activity.

 

Many trad/alpine climbers do. In fact most all that I climb with and/or know, also clip bolts (myself included) from time to time. That doesn't mean that they agree that people should just start bolting everything in sight.

 

[Dru]

first of all, what i don't understand is why anti- bolting population can't accept sport climbing as a valid activity.

 

3 words: multi colored lycra

[lI1|1!]

Rodchester said:

first of all, what i don't understand is why anti- bolting population can't accept sport climbing as a valid activity.

 

Many trad/alpine climbers do. In fact most all that I climb with and/or know, also clip bolts (myself included) from time to time. That doesn't mean that they agree that people should just start bolting everything in sight.

 

 

i think that much is pretty much agreed by most, but the critical point in the arguement is what consititutes "everything in sight".

[Necronomicon]

If it's there, I'll clip it. I don't really care what it is, as long as it looks like it could hold a fall. The only thing that bothers me is when there is a bolt near a perfect spot for pro.

[jordop]

.

Edited June 11, 2021 by jordop

[Thinker]

show me the bolts, baby!

 

click here