Good edging shoes?

[montanapup]

how about the sportiva cobras?

[montanapup]

or better yet Mad Rocks? Flash or Mugen?

[Bill_Simpkins]

I like the Anasazi Velcros. The velcro allows me to get a good fit, fast. I like 'em for cracks and slab too. I still use my old La Sportiva Enduro high-tops for the easy stuff though.

[fleblebleb]

Sportivas are awesome if they fit. I have

 

- Cobras for steep sport and boulders, size 38

- Katanas for the gym, size 38.5

- Miuras for cracks, slabs, all-day and all-around, size 39

 

The Cobras are unlined leather slippers, the Katanas are lined leather velcro slippers, and the Miuras are lined leather lace-ups.

 

The Miuras are the stiffest, followed by the Katanas, and the Cobras are the softest. The Cobras are the most agressively down-turned, for roofs and such. The Miuras are comparatively mellow that way. The Katanas feel longer and narrower, it's a bit odd - maybe a quality control thing?

 

The Miuras (being stiffer) are the best edging shoes I've ever had. In addition to these three pairs I've also had Aces (wrong shape for my foot), Acopa Icampas (good value, not high performance) and Boreal Pyros (wrong size, nasty rubber, took them back to REI after using once or twice - hey, that's what the guarantee is for).

 

The Cobras and Katanas are still on the first sole. The Miuras have been resoled (half-sole) 3-5 times, I've lost count. They were my only shoes for awhile and I always had them resoled with C4, which isn't such a good idea - it wears out too fast. Next time I'm going to have them resoled with the vibram rubber Sportiva uses and see how that works on slabs. I'm also going to stick to vibram on the Katanas, it seems much more durable, but maybe put C4 on the Cobras when the toe wears down.

 

The Miuras have hardly stretched at all length-wise. Width-wise they have stretched a bit, but that's only an improvement. Get the right length in the store, if that pair is too wide or significantly too narrow then you need another brand (prolly 5.10 or Boreals, respectively?). I think I'm going to get a half-size larger pair next time since I'm mostly using them for multi-pitch stuff now.

 

The other two pairs haven't stretched yet, but it's too early to tell so I basically don't know. My buddy has Cobras that he's used quite a bit, he tells me they didn't stretch length-wise nearly as much as he expected - whatever that means.

 

I think the Miuras will only last another couple of resoles. There are big pockets beneath the toes where the shoe is wearing down from the inside. They're my favorite shoes, it's pretty amazing how long they've last considering I used them for everything all the time. They're not even funky yet, the lining material seems nice that way. My old Aces got pretty foul...

 

 

[Dru]

koflach plastic boots edge like anything!