glassgowkiss Posted September 13, 2003 Share Posted September 13, 2003 (edited) hey all of the spray masters. words- action=zilch new routes list to be done: 1 There is an awsome splitter on East Face of Chiante Spire, would share the last pitch with Rebel Yell 2.It's obvoius to me someone should do North and East Face of Mt Triumph 3.N. Face of Mt Peris- there are 2 obvious ice routes in winter 4.Mt Jofree NE Face in winter (none of the routes on the sides of the face count) 5. Someone please straighten out Eve Dearborn memorial route on index through the ice falls? 6. Link-up of Rouch route on Pyramid and Watussi Rodeo on Colonial Pk. 7. new route to the right of "It ain't over motherfuckers".- it will go at moderate grade. my advice- don't pray, but train. *** hey, re#1. right in the center of the face there is a rap anchor for rebel yell (slings on a horn, on white rock). nelson desribes there is traverse from there to the 4" crack (pitch 1). directly above this there is an awsome 2-3" splitter, which becomes a wide falre/chimney at the end. from there just the series of flakes would lead in 2 pitches to the last pitch of rebel yell. i don't think i'll have time to do it before this winter and since i am not a selfish bastard i am puting it out there for you guys to go tthere and nail it. no crampons required to reach the base- we went in tennies 2 weeks ago. ciao Edited September 13, 2003 by glassgowkiss Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter_Puget Posted September 14, 2003 Share Posted September 14, 2003 and if it's really cold the waterfall at Index! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EWolfe Posted September 14, 2003 Share Posted September 14, 2003 glassgowkiss said: hey all of the spray masters. words- action=zilch new routes list to be done: 1 There is an awsome splitter on East Face of Chiante Spire, would share the last pitch with Rebel Yell 2.It's obvoius to me someone should do North and East Face of Mt Triumph 3.N. Face of Mt Peris- there are 2 obvious ice routes in winter 4.Mt Jofree NE Face in winter (none of the routes on the sides of the face count) 5. Someone please straighten out Eve Dearborn memorial route on index through the ice falls? 6. Link-up of Rouch route on Pyramid and Watussi Rodeo on Colonial Pk. 7. new route to the right of "It ain't over motherfuckers".- it will go at moderate grade. my advice- don't pray, but train. *** hey, re#1. right in the center of the face there is a rap anchor for rebel yell (slings on a horn, on white rock). nelson desribes there is traverse from there to the 4" crack (pitch 1). directly above this there is an awsome 2-3" splitter, which becomes a wide falre/chimney at the end. from there just the series of flakes would lead in 2 pitches to the last pitch of rebel yell. i don't think i'll have time to do it before this winter and since i am not a selfish bastard i am puting it out there for you guys to go tthere and nail it. no crampons required to reach the base- we went in tennies 2 weeks ago. ciao Bob, you should have put this in the new ROCK AND BADASS BOB CLIMBING FORUM Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
layton Posted September 14, 2003 Share Posted September 14, 2003 Bob I agree with you and then some! I've scoped out a lot of your lines listed. Q: The only thing is that there are a lot of CLASSIC lines already laid out for us to climb, making you list not so tempting to folks who aren't ready to do new shit, especially since the chance of succes is already low enough, why make it even lower by stepping into the unkown? A: b/c it's fucking gnar gnar bra. you MILF HUMMING CLOWN PUNCHER Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wayne Posted September 15, 2003 Share Posted September 15, 2003 You may see something yet Bob. Many of the peops that do this sort of thing are not the same types who spray about it on the net. Also,Conditions and nice weekends keep many away from stuff they are very cap of doin. It was refreshing to see you guys kickin on the same day we were whoopin. Same day Colin and Forest did Inspiration, Cooincidence? Nope, It was the only good weather/condition weekend I saw that winter. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted September 15, 2003 Share Posted September 15, 2003 bob, re: #4 John McKim and Fast Eddie did this in winter 2002 and called it "Smell the Roses" 500m IV M7 see latest CAJ for details. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jordop Posted September 15, 2003 Share Posted September 15, 2003 (edited) Quote Dru said: bob, re: #4 John McKim and Fast Eddie did this in winter 2002 and called it "Smell the Roses" 500m IV M7 see latest CAJ for details. . Edited June 11, 2021 by jordop Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slothrop Posted October 1, 2003 Share Posted October 1, 2003 Here's my bit of talk - action: Long approach in winter, looks kind of gnarly. Did you send it yet, Bob? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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