ncascademtns Posted September 9, 2003 Share Posted September 9, 2003 Sphinx said: Wait, what's your definition of 'boots'? I was thinking LS Eiger/K2 type boot. Do you mean light hiking boots? Or maybe high-top sticky rubber 'boots'? Alpine climbs, Scarpa Eigers (Mountaineering boot) Rock climbs, La Sportiva (mixed climbing boot) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary_Yngve Posted September 9, 2003 Share Posted September 9, 2003 Good job, Dryad! Haha, a silly picture of me from last year: http://www.cs.washington.edu/homes/gyngve/gary-past-hand-traverse.jpg Note: roughly the same pro placements the pack the boots the gaiters (there was a lot of snow in early July) However, no polypro under my shorts, so I guess I fail. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scot'teryx Posted September 9, 2003 Share Posted September 9, 2003 klenke said: I can sew up a third class talus slope like no other. I can redpoint a 3.13 talus fan in boots. What can you do, Scot'turdyx? Sewing it up is a good thing IMO Obviously I cant do the ERD of Forbidden! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Greg_W Posted September 9, 2003 Share Posted September 9, 2003 scot'teryx said: Sewing it up is a good thing IMO No, Scot, it's not; takes too much time, creates ropedrag, drains energy. None of which is good in an alpine environment. That said, good job Dryad; the more you do, the more you learn. On this whole "I'm a faggot badass 'cause I climb 5.9 in boots" bullshit, I move faster in climbing shoes because my footing is more solid (better feel, sticky rubber); speed is good on alpine climbs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Attitude Posted September 9, 2003 Share Posted September 9, 2003 Climbing shoes are aid. Ya might as well just bolt the damn route so that you won't have to fumble with pro. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coopah Posted September 9, 2003 Share Posted September 9, 2003 I can vouch for NCascadeMtns. He does climb up to 5.9 in his boots. It isn't always pretty but he gets it done. Not my cup of tea but to each his own. He did get me to leave my shoes at home for Easy alpine routes (5.4 and under). It has made me more confident to climb harder grades with shoes Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dryad Posted September 9, 2003 Share Posted September 9, 2003 Hey Gary, you missed out on the fingertip traverse! You went up and left from the fixed pin instead of right. The traverse was fun, especially once I got around the corner and had some airy moves. I know I was sewing it up more than I really had to but our middle person was very grateful for it on the traverse. And catbird, you may have proved your manhood by leading that second pitch in boots, but you made it look HARD! And it's sweet of you to chestbeat about my minor accomplishments on my behalf. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lummox Posted September 9, 2003 Share Posted September 9, 2003 imho sewing up a traverse to protect your second is good technique. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scot'teryx Posted September 9, 2003 Share Posted September 9, 2003 No, Scot, it's not; takes too much time, creates ropedrag, drains energy. None of which is good in an alpine environment. You can sew a line up no problem and eliminate rope drag if you use runners in the correct manner. You know this though, and for your first lead in an alpine setting, sewing it up is not a bad thing. We all can't lead 5.9 in our boots anyway Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
erik Posted September 9, 2003 Share Posted September 9, 2003 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Greg_W Posted September 9, 2003 Share Posted September 9, 2003 scot'teryx said: No, Scot, it's not; takes too much time, creates ropedrag, drains energy. None of which is good in an alpine environment. You can sew a line up no problem and eliminate rope drag if you use runners in the correct manner. You know this though, and for your first lead in an alpine setting, sewing it up is not a bad thing. NO IT'S NOT!!! HATE...ARGUE...SPEW HATE...ARGUE... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iain Posted September 9, 2003 Share Posted September 9, 2003 I use the fan-belts from suvs as my runners and my climbing shoes are harp seal skin killed with a legally-purchased tec-9 from a kid who got the cash by selling downloaded mp3's. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Greg_W Posted September 9, 2003 Share Posted September 9, 2003 iain said: my climbing shoes are harp seal skin killed with a legally-purchased tec-9 C'mon, I don't believe THAT. EVERYONE knows that a Louisville Slugger (nicely end-weighted) is the preferred method for dispatching harp seals. You don't ruin any valuable skin this way. You're just being wasteful. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iain Posted September 9, 2003 Share Posted September 9, 2003 I know, I have to kill at least 4 of 'em to get a decent chunk of flesh to sew up but you can't make an omelette w/o waxing a few eggs with lead Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Greg_W Posted September 9, 2003 Share Posted September 9, 2003 iain said: I know, I have to kill at least 4 of 'em to get a decent chunk of flesh to sew up but you can't make an omelette w/o waxing a few eggs with lead With the Louisville Slugger you create a nice bonemeal that does wonders for your roses, though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iain Posted September 9, 2003 Share Posted September 9, 2003 now that's thinking outside the box. my petunias are wilting from lack of nourishment. I would think my climbing sponsor Monsanto would have put in a little something, you know, for the effort. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dryad Posted September 9, 2003 Share Posted September 9, 2003 You guys are so cute! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary_Yngve Posted September 9, 2003 Share Posted September 9, 2003 dryad said: Hey Gary, you missed out on the fingertip traverse! You went up and left from the fixed pin instead of right. The traverse was fun, especially once I got around the corner and had some airy moves. And catbird, you may have proved your manhood by leading that second pitch in boots, but you made it look HARD! Ah, I'll have to try that way some other time. Going left does have a finger traverse (steeper but shorter) followed by a mantle to a lieback/jam crack up a ramp... around the corner to the tree belay... pretty fun. We swung leads so I followed the second pitch, but I remember it was fun in boots; I found a lot of toe-heel jams that would have been more awkward in rock shoes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
icegirl_44 Posted September 16, 2003 Share Posted September 16, 2003 bad ass indeed! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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