catbirdseat Posted September 9, 2003 Posted September 9, 2003 Dryad leading the third pitch of the Beckey Route. Photo This was her first multipitch alpine trad lead and she did very well. Gear was good and so was the route finding. Good job. Quote
klenke Posted September 9, 2003 Posted September 9, 2003 My Lord! We better rename that the Sew Up Route. Nonetheless, that's a good start. The finger traverse pitch is a good one for a first lead: easily protected, not extremely steep, good features, but not totally a bore even for a beginner. Quote
mattp Posted September 9, 2003 Posted September 9, 2003 I don't know about you, Klenke, but I think the Beckey Route is one truly 5.6d rock climb. Many a party has been caught unprepared for what they found there. I saw them in the parking lot and I said it then: "right on" Dryad!!! ( Right on Brian and your third, too.) Quote
klenke Posted September 9, 2003 Posted September 9, 2003 My recollection is that the third pitch was not that bad. Compared to the awkward second (chimney) pitch, the third pitch is more relaxing...or at least it was for me. As for Dryad not being prepared, she at least had Brian there to reel her in if she fell. Quote
scot'teryx Posted September 9, 2003 Posted September 9, 2003 Wasn't aware that Klenke leads Trad? Thought that he only did 3rd class choss Quote
klenke Posted September 9, 2003 Posted September 9, 2003 I can sew up a third class talus slope like no other. I can redpoint a 3.13 talus fan in boots. What can you do, Scot'turdyx? Quote
vegetablebelay Posted September 9, 2003 Posted September 9, 2003 Shouldn't this all be in the ROCK NEWBIE FORUM ?????? Quote
iain Posted September 9, 2003 Posted September 9, 2003 blasting people for "sewing it up" on their first alpine trad lead is pretty lame. Quote
Bill_Simpkins Posted September 9, 2003 Posted September 9, 2003 (edited) Nice job! However, every piece is back-clipped! But I did way worse on my first lead. The pro looks good. keep it up. -Nevermind, I was hallucinating when i looked at the pic. The first is clipped fine. The second looks back-clipped. Long day. Edited September 9, 2003 by Bill_Simpkins Quote
nolanr Posted September 9, 2003 Posted September 9, 2003 Nice job Dryad. I think the 3rd pitch was the most fun. Quote
klenke Posted September 9, 2003 Posted September 9, 2003 iain said: blasting people for "sewing it up" on their first alpine trad lead is pretty lame. My post statement "obnoxious?" Oh, give me a break. If that statement would be obnoxious to you then I imagine you don't have many friends, Iain. It's called a lighthearted jab, something not to be taken seriously. Ah, wait, I see you changed the word to "lame." Okay, that's acceptable. But "pretty" lame? Aiblins. Quote
catbirdseat Posted September 9, 2003 Author Posted September 9, 2003 klenke said: I can sew up a third class talus slope like no other. I can redpoint a 3.13 talus fan in boots. What can you do, Scot'turdyx? I climbed in my mountain boots just to see what it would be like. No surprise that the first moves up the chimney seemed a little harder. Quote
allthumbs Posted September 9, 2003 Posted September 9, 2003 catbirdseat said: I climbed in my mountain boots just to see what it would be like. No surprise that the first moves up the chimney seemed a little harder. ya think? Quote
ncascademtns Posted September 9, 2003 Posted September 9, 2003 See Catbirdseat, It wasn't all that hard in your boots was it. Leave the rock shoes for the gym and be a man! I havn't worn my shoes in years. Good Job Dryad! We have taught you well. Quote
Sphinx Posted September 9, 2003 Posted September 9, 2003 ncascademtns said: See Catbirdseat, It wasn't all that hard in your boots was it. Leave the rock shoes for the gym and be a man! I havn't worn my shoes in years. Good Job Dryad! We have taught you well. So you aren't climbing hard, eh? Quote
ncascademtns Posted September 9, 2003 Posted September 9, 2003 Sphinx said: ncascademtns said: See Catbirdseat, It wasn't all that hard in your boots was it. Leave the rock shoes for the gym and be a man! I havn't worn my shoes in years. Good Job Dryad! We have taught you well. So you aren't climbing hard, eh? 5.9 trad in Boots. Well I do take me shoes to Exit 38, but that doesn't count for us alpine climbers. Quote
Sphinx Posted September 9, 2003 Posted September 9, 2003 ncascademtns said: Sphinx said: ncascademtns said: See Catbirdseat, It wasn't all that hard in your boots was it. Leave the rock shoes for the gym and be a man! I havn't worn my shoes in years. Good Job Dryad! We have taught you well. So you aren't climbing hard, eh? 5.9 trad in Boots. Well I do take me shoes to Exit 38, but that doesn't count for us alpine climbers. What 5.9? I wanna see someone climb the Gendarme on Stuart in boots. If you do I'll buy you a beer. Quote
ncascademtns Posted September 9, 2003 Posted September 9, 2003 Sphinx said: ncascademtns said: Sphinx said: ncascademtns said: See Catbirdseat, It wasn't all that hard in your boots was it. Leave the rock shoes for the gym and be a man! I havn't worn my shoes in years. Good Job Dryad! We have taught you well. So you aren't climbing hard, eh? 5.9 trad in Boots. Well I do take me shoes to Exit 38, but that doesn't count for us alpine climbers. What 5.9? I wanna see someone climb the Gendarme on Stuart in boots. If you do I'll buy you a beer. Catbirdseat can cover me on that one.... I hope. I don't like the shoes and I never bring them with me. I have learn to climb without them. Great for gym and sport climbing but that is about it. Quote
catbirdseat Posted September 9, 2003 Author Posted September 9, 2003 Dude, you go climb the gendarme on N. Ridge Stuart in boots and Sphinx and I will each buy you one of those 32 oz Sloop flagons of ale. Quote
Sphinx Posted September 9, 2003 Posted September 9, 2003 I vehemently disagree. Shoes are essential for many hard alpine rock routes. Wait, what's your definition of 'boots'? I was thinking LS Eiger/K2 type boot. Do you mean light hiking boots? Or maybe high-top sticky rubber 'boots'? To each his own, but I still think that shoes are better than boots for rock. Quote
ncascademtns Posted September 9, 2003 Posted September 9, 2003 catbirdseat said: Dude, you go climb the gendarme on N. Ridge Stuart in boots and Sphinx and I will each buy you one of those 32 oz Sloop flagons of ale. Thanks Catbirdseat, that really helped. We better stop this. You guy might put me to the test. Seriously, learning to climb without shoes is a good thing, not that shoes are a bad thing. That is just how I work. Quote
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