The Tooth is turning into a sport route

[catbirdseat]

There are three fixed pieces on the third pitch: two cams and a nut. It's turning into clip and go. Something must be done.

[Colin]

What cams? Was this today? Were they still there when you headed down? Urgent!

[lummox]

pirate treasure

[catbirdseat]

They were there today. We weren't in the mood for trying to extract them. All we wanted to do was climb.

[Sphinx]

See! Mounties again! I can understand, though, that climb is serious enough that you are often placing gear from a bad stance, trying desperately to get some gear in before you pitch off of the tiny crimps.

[catbirdseat]

Run along home to your mother, kid, you bother me.

[erik]

Sphinx said:

See! Mounties again! I can understand, though, that climb is serious enough that you are often placing gear from a bad stance, trying desperately to get some gear in before you pitch off of the tiny crimps.

 

 

catbirdseat said:

Run along home to your mother, kid, you bother me.

 

 

[Sphinx]

catbirdseat said:

Run along home to your mother, kid, you bother me.

 

[G-spotter]

Hello

 

I am bolting the Toothie very soon to establish bomber fixed anchors for DJ portaledge party and climbers rave

 

How many bolts should I place per pitch? The standard for such a graded climb in Europe is to be six or eight.

 

I am also thinking there should be via ferrata route on north side.

[Bill_Simpkins]

One funny thing is about the stuck cams on Das Toof is that you can lead the whole thing with a set of stoppers.

[minx]

Another funny thing about the stuck cams on the tooth is that it's more pieces than that 3rd pitch needs.

[chucK]

Hey guess what you condescending f**ks. When people solo past you while you're protecting the third pitch the "right way" (or with stoppers only), they laugh at you because you're using a rope.

[chucK]

On that cordial note...I think I'll be heading up there this morning. Meet me at the Alpental parking lot around 10:15 or so?

 

Let's do it.

 

 

Delayed, unexpectedly. Won't be there 'til like 11:00.

 

 

Edited August 14, 2003 by chucK

[minx]

hey chuck

 

i didn't say it wasn't worth placing gear at all. i don't think it needs that much gear.

 

what i really can't figure out is how they got gear stuck on the tooth. fine so i'm a condescending bitch. it's the tooth...fine practice placements but getting it stuck?

 

i'd love to have the balls to solo it but i don't. i like my rope.

 

have a nice day

[Bill_Simpkins]

Freesoloing a different subject altogether.

 

I think that Das Toof is a great route for beginning trad leading. Everyone has to start somewhere, right? In fact, it was MY first trad lead. That time I lead it with a set of stoppers, two tricams and 3 hexes. If I had cams I would have used them. I could see how cams would increase the possible placements dramatically.

But still, it's ironic they lost some on that route, because they didn't really need them because there are tons of good stopper placements. Maybe someday, after the've done the Tooth many times, they will realize that themselves and have a laugh.

 

I think that some here (on cc.com) are way too hard on those that are starting out. But the truth is, most of us were guilty of doing things that beginners do (and dressing like the Mountaineers). Some of us make jokes because we are laughing at what we, ourselves used to do. It's fun when it's light-hearted, but I see a lot of chest-beating occuring also. I am guilty of this, as are many others. Thinking back, I think it would much more productive to offer suggestions and insight to these people rather than just showing off that we know more.

Or offering to help them get their cams back.

[minx]

chuck if the cordial note is directed to me, sorry i can't make it. Plans this AM climbing this PM. besides, i made some friends promise to slap me if i ever planned on climbing toothie from that side again. climbed it last week and couple times earlier in the summer.

 

have fun though!

[ctuller]

Why do people continue to bash on newbie climbers?

Fuckin wankers pop'd out of there mommas with a harness and full rack, or what? Do you not remember when you first started?

I like laughing at the mounties as much as the next guy, but give a fuckin break already, and let them climb.

[minx]

oh cripes! don't turn this into something that it's not. i'm nothing more than a newbie wannabe gaper myself. i don't think anyone is bashing newbies. i personally am sorta perplexed by the fact that anyone...regardless of experience...got gear stuck there, let alone multiple people (i'm assuming that it wasn't the same person who got 3 pieces stuck)

[erik]

i dont get this post. make fun of pepople who get their gear stuck? stupis!

 

sometimes the best people in the world get gear stuck, sometimes other factors other then ones placement gets a piece stuck.

 

who cares and why bash people for it? if you find the booty smile and clean your peice and then donate it(unless you badly need that peice) to someone who actually needs gear, cuz badass people dont use it!

 

 

i wanna rear or the see the badasses climb some "real" routes!!!! b4 talkin their shit!

 

 

[minx]

erik-

 

again, i'm not making fun of anyone. what i don't get is how so many pieces are getting stuck on that 3rd pitch. if it's going to continue to gobble gear no one is going to need/get to place anything to do that pitch.

 

i think that's a great route for someone to do a first alpine style lead. it just seems odd to me that all of a sudden there is 3 fixed pieces on the 3rd pitch.

 

 

[erik]

whys that seem odd?

is there like a gear stuckage trend i need to watch out for??

or maybe the gear just wants to be with it friends??

truthfully i dont eve know why i continue to reply to such an inane topic, i am obviously out of my league with all the super hero climbers around here!

 

 

[minx]

erik

you've never questioned an oddity such as this? whatever

Edited August 14, 2003 by minx

[erik]

that three peices get stuck and then just unbashidly spray about how some moron or multiple morons could get a peice stuck on such a baby climb like the tooth?

 

naw i dont think i have, i certainly have sprayed about alot of other things, but i dont carry the holier then thou i am an expert badass mother fucking climber attitude towards newbies....certainly against seasoned dolts, but i would rather help someone learn the correct way in a stress free enviroemtn free from some ignoramous unbacked comments.

 

[minx]

Whoa! Take a step back there big guy! all i did was wonder why the hell that pitch suddenly has 3 fixed pieces. i pointed out that i figured it was from 3 separate people no someone having a hard time placing gear.

 

maybe i didn't phrase it well in the first place but that pitch hardly needs 3 pieces placed. now there's 3 fixed? shit no one's going to need to place crap on that pitch anymore. sorta takes one fun aspect of it out of the climb no?

 

i, of all people, was not baggin on a someone, new or not, for getting a piece stuck. i am just really surprised there is suddenly 3 pieces up there. i have quite recently donated to the greater alpine gear pool.

[catbirdseat]

How do you know they appeared "suddenly"? All I know is that they weren't there last December. Erik and Minx, you are two people who each need to have the last word.