Castel Crags (Hood) Rock Route Beta?

[Xcott]

Tantalizing description in the back of PRC, but I hear that it may be a tad loose? Tim tells me that WW put this up; you out there? Any repeaters? Interested? I'm taking a group up Illumination on Wednesday and would like to eyeball this with the benefit of any available observations.

 

Thanks all,

 

XS

[rbw1966]

I believe there is more than one route up Castle Crag. Monsieur Wallace did indeed develop at least one of those routes and yes its loose but not anything outside of the ordinary Oregon choss. I haven't climbed it but have monkeyed around a bit on the lower reaches.

 

Bring a change of underwear and a helmet. I have aspirations to do this route in winter conditions.

 

[iain]

there's a tricky gendarme on the crest that has many bail slings right before it.

[Xcott]

I've heard that the rock is loose in the 4th class sections and good in the 5th. With a rating of 5.7 (sound right?), I'm wondering what the deal is with that gendarme. Assuming it solid, could the bailing behavior be motivated by exposure?

 

Iain, have you been up it or know anyone who has?

 

Many thanks - XC

[iain]

I only know someone who has been up there in the mid 80's. He said it was actually decent rock, but the gendarme creeped him out and he wasn't sure what he would find on the other side, being by himself and all. The exposure is mind-numbing, apparently.

[erik]

LETZ DO IT!

 

 

[Xcott]

'Right there with you, Erik. Let's get together for some multi-pitch at beacon, pete's or lamberson and make our plan. When you out next? I'm on washington tomorrow, beacon sunday and illumination for group duty on wednesday; flexible after that until back to mt. washington for more group duty on 9/5-6. Need to get up razorblade this year, too & into any other sweets within ~2 hr.s of pdx ...

[iain]

what is group duty?

[rbw1966]

gang bang

[Xcott]

For years, I've wanted to get into outdoor ed, but the hours & pay with OB & the like don't fit, so I set my sights on teaching basic school with the mazamas, since it affords the most creative leeway for the instructor and a moderate time commitment; That and I get an outlet for my interest in the finer points of rock & crevasse rescue & wilderness first aid through helping teach those classes for other courses. Anyway, to do all that, you first have to go through the club's leader development program, and leading illumination and washington are my last two requirements. That said, I'm very conscious of issues with club climbs in the larger scene; We'll try to be good up there.

 

- XC

[iain]

well, have a good trundle session on mt washington then.

[Xcott]

Thanks, doc. Guess if I hang around here a while I'll get hip to "trundle" & so on. (6 years in europe left me in a sorrily un-hip state, and I never got clued back in.)

[b-rock]

http://dictionary.reference.com/search?q=trundle

[iain]

"2. To cause to roll or revolve; to roll along; as, to trundle a hoop or a ball."

[iain]

[iain]

"3. To contribute to the slow heat death of the universe."

[texplorer]

I hate the Mazamas!!!

[Xcott]

May we all learn from your experience

[Sphinx]

texplorer said:

I hate the Mazamas!!!

Mazamas and Mounties are so suck.

[Xcott]

Did I volunteer to be your therapist? Well, okaaay ... but we'll have to take this up later - I'm shutting down & heading out to mt. washington (in a non-club incarnation, so nothing to be anxious about ).

[wayne]

Hello I am Here now. I had connection problems but now my addiction is being nurtured again. I wish I had a scanner, I topoed the whole route. The start slabs are awesome. We peed on the tree by placing a bolt at the 1st belay . From there it can only go up an open book that can be stemmed easily at 5.7. The view down the ridge is disheartening( I wanted to bail but my partner insisted on contng)I will say :where the climbing is diff, it is solid, but where it is easy: look out!. The genderms were a push-over( so to speak ) We placed a rap bolt at the top of it. All in all it is a great tour! But beware of the rabbit!