Mer Posted August 7, 2003 Share Posted August 7, 2003 Routes generally improve with a little traffic, but does slab actually become harder? Every time I slither off a hard slab route I start in with my theory about how every tiny crumb or crystal that might have once been there has long been broken off or smoothed away. Admittedly I’m crappy on slab, and should learn to climb better and rationalize less, but you think there’s any truth to the theory? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chirp Posted August 7, 2003 Share Posted August 7, 2003 (edited) My experience is on Sandstone ( Navajo specifically and mostly) and some slabby granite. Any granite type rock will polish over repeated use, just try some of those slippery probs in camp 4. As for sandstone, it tends to get "buffed", not so much a polish since its always sluffing off on a granular level, but a fresh un-trammeled patch of SS slab is usually more "frictiony". This mainly noticiable on 5.10 and harder SS slabs where friction is crucial. Technique and "dynamic balance" is always helpful Yes, I think slabs get a little harder over time. Hall of Smears 5.11, Kolob Canyons Edited August 7, 2003 by chirp Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted August 7, 2003 Share Posted August 7, 2003 wearing all the crystals and microknobs off is like going from knobbies to slicks or gravel to pavement on your bike. smoother surface, more rubber contact, better stick... at least its what i tell myself Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
catbirdseat Posted August 8, 2003 Share Posted August 8, 2003 Slab climbing is all mental anyway. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EWolfe Posted August 8, 2003 Share Posted August 8, 2003 catbirdseat said: Slab climbing is all mental anyway. John Dunne: The Very Big and The Very Small - 5.14 slab Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted August 8, 2003 Share Posted August 8, 2003 MisterE said: catbirdseat said: Slab climbing is all mental anyway. John Dunne: The Very Big and The Very Small - 5.14 slab john dunne has never climbed vbvs, or 14 slab for that matter. it was put up by johnny DAWES and repeated by steve mclure. there is a 13d slab route in spain and a v15 slab boulder problem in japan i bet that gecko tape helps immensely for both. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EWolfe Posted August 9, 2003 Share Posted August 9, 2003 Dru said: MisterE said: catbirdseat said: Slab climbing is all mental anyway. John Dunne: The Very Big and The Very Small - 5.14 slab john dunne has never climbed vbvs, or 14 slab for that matter. it was put up by johnny DAWES and repeated by steve mclure. there is a 13d slab route in spain and a v15 slab boulder problem in japan i bet that gecko tape helps immensely for both. Man, you are just my frickin' proctor these days drool (or is it proctologist ). True story: My buddy Chris Schloedfelt was gonna try " Hall of Miirors" in Yosemite, and just before he was starting, some long-haired freak approached him and said: "Hey! You gonna climb Hall of Mirrors?" Chris said "Yes." Longhair says: "Gimme your shoes, I'll show you a trick for slab." Chris wonders, but eventually figures the guy isn't going to steal his shoes... Longhair grabs the shoes and goes to the nearest pine tree, sits, and starts rubbing down the soles with pine tar. He comes back, rubbing the shoes vigorously, hands them back to Chris and says: "This is how we did this one - I'm Jim Bridwell, and this will make these shoes stick to anything " Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigwalling Posted August 9, 2003 Share Posted August 9, 2003 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cpt.Caveman Posted August 9, 2003 Share Posted August 9, 2003 I've never had interest in this popular tower. I'm sure there is a tiny amount of fun there. But the hype is about as much as some of the so called classics of Smoots Book - Full of shit -. Instantly stupid bolt climbs are classics but the 5.6 next to it are 20 times better. BTW Smoot books are full of shit- he may mock beckey (note beckey has errors) but smoot has never been to half the areas he mentions in his books I bet. It's just plagiarism at it's finest to make money. Climb a pitch at peshastin and you'll find your fix. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EWolfe Posted August 9, 2003 Share Posted August 9, 2003 bigwalling said: At least you don't have to worry about "ledging out" Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bill_Simpkins Posted August 9, 2003 Share Posted August 9, 2003 I love slabs. Awe....that sandstone at Peshastin.... Ignore the wankerness . It's in old pic. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JoshK Posted August 9, 2003 Share Posted August 9, 2003 Slabs scare me. I hate skinned knees. Yup. gGrils are good. So wonderful! Take care, have a good night everybody. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bill_Simpkins Posted August 9, 2003 Share Posted August 9, 2003 I've never once got skinned knees. Just slide on the 'ol toes and watch your shoes melt! Fatty Bolger is my favorite. The boulder problems on Exactor Slab in B'ham are fun to try. Ruined a pair of shoes on those. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigwalling Posted August 9, 2003 Share Posted August 9, 2003 Bill_Simpkins said: I've never once got skinned knees. Just slide on the 'ol toes and watch your shoes melt! Fatty Bolger is my favorite. The boulder problems on Exactor Slab in B'ham are fun to try. Ruined a pair of shoes on those. Isn't Fatty Bolger pretty well protected? I'd really like to give it a try but it's kinda hard for me. Next time I'm up there I'll jump on it, now that someone reccomends it. What is with those easy climbs to the left?!? Those things have holds and bolts everywhere. Maybe half the bolts and they would make sense. Good for begginers I guess. That one 5.6 is a complete waste though! Oh and that picture I posted was of The Very Big... the same site has a picture of him(Steve Mclure(sp?)) doing a crazy looking rockover. I really like that road in the back! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bill_Simpkins Posted August 10, 2003 Share Posted August 10, 2003 Fatty bolger is pretty well protected with bolts and natural pro, but I TR'd it . Those routes to the far left are good for beginning sport climbers, or for warming up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted August 11, 2003 Share Posted August 11, 2003 the jug slab central routes (stepladder and moominland) were first semi-cleaned and soloed by me and dave vocadlo. glenn payan and jeff thomson later fully cleaned & bolted them & the two 5.6s with our permission to turn the whole jug slab into a beginning leader's crag. so that's what up with all the bolts. the only fully bolted 5.6 routes at squamish IIRC. snoboy's 5.11 project below jug slab is also fun. bring your own hangers if you plan on poaching it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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