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Grand Wall question


chucK

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hey dru, how many full length slings do you carry? (25 or 30?) what about doubles and triples? the_finger.gif

 

tying off with the rope via a clove hitch can't be beat for adjusting distance to the anchor, as it is needed. try that with slings ...

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j_b said:

hey dru, how many full length slings do you carry? (25 or 30?) what about doubles and triples? the_finger.gif

 

tying off with the rope via a clove hitch can't be beat for adjusting distance to the anchor, as it is needed. try that with slings ...

 

PAS.jpg full strength adjustable anchor without rope for you the_finger.gif

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When belaying from the top if you redirect the belay through the anchor then to your harness the force is twice the amount it would be if you belayed direct off the anchor or direct off the harness.

Dru- I think you are flat wrong about using the rope as part of your belay. Its faster, safer and when done properly uses no extra rope. But you are due your own opinion. Never once has this been a issue for me.

 

dale

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well, when it happens to you you will see how it DOES use extra rope

 

1) the amount that is incorporated into the knot and the distance between the knot and the harness

 

2) the loop between the anchor knot and the belay device

 

if you belay off slings or a daisy or cordellette or PAS you can use this extra rope (1 & 2) to extend the distance the leader can lead. when linking pitches or alpine climbing this amount can be significant as you will find out when you have to use it!!! wave.gif

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Dru said:

well, when it happens to you you will see how it DOES use extra rope

 

1) the amount that is incorporated into the knot and the distance between the knot and the harness

 

2) the loop between the anchor knot and the belay device

 

if you belay off slings or a daisy or cordellette or PAS you can use this extra rope (1 & 2) to extend the distance the leader can lead. when linking pitches or alpine climbing this amount can be significant as you will find out when you have to use it!!! wave.gif

 

Well it hasn't happened in 15 years so far.

 

1- The distance from the anchor to the harness will always be there even if the rope is not part of the anchor.

 

2. The distance from the anchor knot to the belay device is not a factor. When the leader is almost out of rope just take them off belay, at this point keeping them on belay is useless as your body will act as the belay. You can use this extra time to prepare to climb and save time.

 

3. The knot only takes up 4" of rope. No explanation needed there.

 

Dale bigdrink.gif

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1) the distance from the anchor to the harness is unusable rope if tied in with the rope but usable if on a sling.

 

2) they may not be at a good spot where they can stop while you take the rope out of the belay device

 

3) i don't wanna hear about your usable 4" smileysex5.gif. if you were any good you wouldn't be a washington climber anyhow.

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jordop said:

But, but, but . . . If you ever climb as a party of three, having members on daisies or similar is essential to minimize cluster f'ups. I use both systems, sometimes AT THE SAME TIMEcantfocus.gif If I'm feeling lazy I usually chain it smirk.gif

 

 

oh, daler's 4" has got you hot, now you wanna brag about your 3somes rolleyes.gif

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Dru said:

jordop said:

But, but, but . . . If you ever climb as a party of three, having members on daisies or similar is essential to minimize cluster f'ups. I use both systems, sometimes AT THE SAME TIMEcantfocus.gif If I'm feeling lazy I usually chain it smirk.gif

 

 

oh, daler's 4" has got you hot, now you wanna brag about your 3somes rolleyes.gif

 

Strongbuns, oh yeah, like that heart attack yelrotflmao.gif

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jordop said:

iain said:

Dru said:now you wanna brag about your 3somes rolleyes.gif
3somes including clove-hitched bondage! wave.gif

 

AND daisy chains rolleyes.gif

 

this would be trhe perfect place for daisy's avatar pic but it looks like the link broke

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Dru said:

1) the distance from the anchor to the harness is unusable rope if tied in with the rope but usable if on a sling.

 

2) they may not be at a good spot where they can stop while you take the rope out of the belay device

 

3) i don't wanna hear about your usable 4" smileysex5.gif. if you were any good you wouldn't be a washington climber anyhow.

 

You must have not thought it through. The distance from the anchor to the harness is the same if using a knot on the rope to hang from or not. The only difference is the knot. If you are not using the rope as an attachment point to the anchor it still runs down to your harness so this distance is unusable in your book.

 

If your not fast enough to take off the belay at any point you should pratice some more. An essential alpine skill!!

No need for the leader to stop! just take them off.

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daler said:

Just belay of the Anchor.

 

Dale bigdrink.gif

 

wouldn't the natural resting place for the belayer's hand be below the device, ie, not locked off when belaying with a device off the anchor? what's wrong with clove hitching into the anchor, then just belaying off the harness directly to the second climber? the force of a fall goes through the harness to the belay anchor with no pain or smoking hand. how do you safely belay off the belay anchor with a device?

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daler said:

Dru said:

1) the distance from the anchor to the harness is unusable rope if tied in with the rope but usable if on a sling.

 

2) they may not be at a good spot where they can stop while you take the rope out of the belay device

 

3) i don't wanna hear about your usable 4" smileysex5.gif. if you were any good you wouldn't be a washington climber anyhow.

 

You must have not thought it through. The distance from the anchor to the harness is the same if using a knot on the rope to hang from or not. The only difference is the knot. If you are not using the rope as an attachment point to the anchor it still runs down to your harness so this distance is unusable in your book.

 

If your not fast enough to take off the belay at any point you should pratice some more. An essential alpine skill!!

No need for the leader to stop! just take them off.

 

one day you will figure out what i'm talking about yellowsleep.gifwave.gif

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Dru said:

 

 

2) they may not be at a good spot where they can stop while you take the rope out of the belay device

 

 

don't most belayers notice when the end of the rope is coming and just pull the rope out of the device slightly ahead of time?

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gnibmilc said:

daler said:

Just belay of the Anchor.

 

Dale bigdrink.gif

 

wouldn't the natural resting place for the belayer's hand be below the device, ie, not locked off when belaying with a device off the anchor?

 

All cool cats usin the Reverso now, auto-lock-off the_finger.gif

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