Bill_Simpkins Posted July 19, 2003 Posted July 19, 2003 Drove to the last switchback before the trailhead. The gate opens around seven and is locked about 4:30 pm, weekdays. The trail seemed sketchy for the first thirty feet but then was really nice and well marked the rest of the way. It was a steep trail but very enjoyable in the forests and next to the large granite cliffs at the bottom of Illusion peaks. There is good water at the creek about 1/2 hour to 1 hour from the trailhead, and plenty of snow to melt up by camp. The approach to high camp took us about 3 hours. An ice axe was not needed, can aviod most snow on boulders. You may want an axe if going up Mt. Rexford to get up the first gully. The North ridge of the spire was pretty dirty, some route finding and low fifth class moves. Did a running belay. The summit and decent were more enjoyable, I thought. Some class 3 and option rappells to speed it up. RT from camp took 5 hours, which included much dillydallying on the summit. We camped on a large flat boulder by the noll. Nice night. Bring deet for the sqeeters though. The next day we planned on doing Rexford, but we didn't want to push the clock getting back to the gate, because we could have been locked in all weekend. So we hiked down to the cliffs by the trail and did some toproping on some slabs until I ran out of water. Will try and post photos soon. Quote
dberdinka Posted July 20, 2003 Posted July 20, 2003 The Gate? The Gate? They've added a gate to Nesakwatch Creek Road? Whats it's status on weekends? Nice TR by the way. A beautiful place. Quote
Bill_Simpkins Posted July 20, 2003 Author Posted July 20, 2003 Yes there is a gate about 2 km from the trailhead. It is locked all weekend. Quote
Travis Posted July 22, 2003 Posted July 22, 2003 Here's a pic I took up there Sunday, can you spot the climbers? Any idea what they're on? Quote
Dru Posted July 22, 2003 Posted July 22, 2003 I see em in bottom centre. Purple shirt dude liebacking. White shirt dude belaying. They are on the variant* start to "Shaun and Dwayne's 11a Route" also known as "Route C" * The one that avoids the 11a crux moves. Quote
Smoker Posted July 27, 2003 Posted July 27, 2003 Good eye's Dru I see nothing, but that dont mean much I did the N and S spire a few days ago. The N. ridge of the south spire is very big choss. best to by pass below and ascend the 4th class ramps from the East. Being a crappy offwidth climber I found the "5.7" finish pitch to be spicy, maybe cause I only had 1 tipped #2 big bro and I was Fun day! didn't look like the S. spire gets climbed much Quote
Off_White Posted July 27, 2003 Posted July 27, 2003 Are you sure he doesn't mean that guy in black belaying the hottie in orange prana in the squeeze chimney? I think it's DFA and his legendary spouse. Quote
Travis Posted August 6, 2003 Posted August 6, 2003 The climbers I saw, and not until after I'd taken the photo, are highlighted here. The belayer is in shorts, and the climber hasn't left the ground. Not sure what Dru is seeing... Quote
Travis Posted August 6, 2003 Posted August 6, 2003 I tried and I tried, but it wouldn't attach. Here it is inlined. Quote
Dru Posted August 6, 2003 Posted August 6, 2003 oh well whatever. i wondered why the climber looked so much bigger than the belayer! Quote
philfort Posted August 6, 2003 Posted August 6, 2003 He's slow... as of last wknd, he hadn't moved from his belay ledge! Quote
Travis Posted August 9, 2003 Posted August 9, 2003 The climbers in the picture are M. Spagnut and K.Lang doing the first ascent of Bugaboo Crack. (taken July 20,2003) Route info was found here... http://bivouac.com/PhotoPg.asp?PhotoId=4132 and here... http://www28.brinkster.com/mspagnut/snesak_bugaboo.asp Quote
Billygoat Posted August 9, 2003 Posted August 9, 2003 Where exactly is Nasakwatch (sp.) and did anyone see Cairns picture of this in the gallery, recent uploads? Quote
philfort Posted August 9, 2003 Posted August 9, 2003 One ridge east of Slesse, along with Mt Rexford. Quote
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