jason_h Posted July 15, 2003 Posted July 15, 2003 Has anyone here done it-starting at Stuart, and heading over Stuart, Sherpa, Argonaut, Colchuck and Prusik? I believe Peter Croft did it in a day, has any one else? Any beta, especially on the routes up/descents on Sherpa and Argonaut. Quote
jason_h Posted July 15, 2003 Author Posted July 15, 2003 It would make sense, eh? But for some reason I think Croft skipped it. But, yeah it may get added on too. So any beta out there? Quote
Dru Posted July 15, 2003 Posted July 15, 2003 you can look it up in the 1984 or 85 canadian alpine journal... Quote
jason_h Posted July 15, 2003 Author Posted July 15, 2003 Yeah, I think that was where I first read about it. It's more of just a trip report though. Doesn't say too much about what routes he took and what the downclimbing was like. Quote
Jarred_Jackman Posted July 15, 2003 Posted July 15, 2003 I'm planning on it in august and as far as I can tell the hardest technical climbing comes on stuart. I'm giong in via the west ridge. There is that 5.7 exposed move on the west ridge of prusik, but prusik isn't even really in the same ridge ling. I think it goes on and continues after argonaut over to Mclellan Ridge. I'm thinking it'll take two starting at the ingalls trail and finishing at the snow creek parking lot. Quote
bobbyperu Posted July 15, 2003 Posted July 15, 2003 ken 4 , and i did a traverse along the crest in june goin from the car at mtneer cr trhd, to sherpa pass, along the ridge east, down to the base of the south face of argo( clean golden rock with many route options-splitters), then traversing along the crest or the south side. then down to the basin beneath colchuck/dragontail, up and around to the east side and down the slopes leading to asgaard pass, and out via colchuck lake... 14 hours car2car with a mellow pace and time to chill in the amazingly beautiful scene. this crest from sherpa pass to argo is kinda more scambling than climbing with short sections of steeper stuff. there is much up and down climbing as well further along. also the summits of colchuck and dragontail from this side are pretty much walk-ups... starting from stuart, and continuing to prusik would be big... good luck-bp Quote
Jens Posted July 15, 2003 Posted July 15, 2003 (edited) Croft's solo ridge run has almost become mythical in how often it is talked about in Cascade climbing circles. I seemed to remember reading an interview with Croft in an old rock &ice about it. I think he started up the complete north ridge to start the enchainment. I think he described the crux as some lichen covered rock between sherpa and argonaut? If you stay on the crest of the ridge their is a lot of gnarly real estate between sherpa and argonout and it is about a hortizontal mile. Definitely the time consuming part of the trip due to the fact that their are probalby two dozen little towers blocking your way. As a sidenote, we often erroneously use "traverse" interchnageably with ridge run or enchainment around here. for a euro style enchainement, you must stay on the crest the whole time and negociate towers. A traverse can take on a much more broad and less technical definition (valley end runs etc.). I'm done with my soapbox now. Have fun and watch out for snaffs Edited July 15, 2003 by Jens Quote
Dru Posted July 16, 2003 Posted July 16, 2003 no offense jens, but I think you have travertse and enchainment backasswards.... you can ENCHAIN the 6 classic north faces but you can't do that on a traverse... ENCHAINMENT is a linking of multiple routes or summits. a TRAVERSE is following a ridge crest over one or numerous summits...as in, a traverse of stuart, up the N riodge and down the E ridge, would be a good way to start off a traverse of stuart range finishing on dragontail... Quote
jason_h Posted July 16, 2003 Author Posted July 16, 2003 My bad...I'm referring to enchainment, not traverse. As I am looking to climb the easier routes up and especially down Sherpa and Argo within a reasonable distance of the east and west ridges. And what the connection between Argo and Colchuck is like from that side. Quote
Dru Posted July 16, 2003 Posted July 16, 2003 enchainments traverse or enchantments enchainments Quote
Bug Posted July 17, 2003 Posted July 17, 2003 Croft definately started by free soloing the direct north ridge of Stuart including the gendarme. That alone is a pretty respectable climb. Quote
pms Posted July 18, 2003 Posted July 18, 2003 I believe he started down at the Eightmile Campground on the Icicle and walked the 3-4 miles of road to the trailhead. Quote
Flying_Ned Posted July 18, 2003 Posted July 18, 2003 Jarred_Jackman said: I'm planning on it in august and as far as I can tell the hardest technical climbing comes on stuart. I'm giong in via the west ridge. There is that 5.7 exposed move on the west ridge of prusik, but prusik isn't even really in the same ridge ling. It's 5.7 for exposure only. It's really just a high angle friction slab to a corner and an easy pull to a short, narrow butt-scumming ridge. It's airy, but not difficult. Quote
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