Mt. Adams North Ridge - best place to camp?

[techboy]

Excellent beta from Savaiusini! We are heading up north ridge last weekend of July - can anyone recommend a good spot to camp? Other than High Camp, that is...GPS coords might be kinda helpful...

Thanks!

[skykilo]

The 7,500 ft. lake above high camp has nice sites, and it's right at the base of the north ridge. You should be able to find it without GPS, it's the big blue spot on the topo.

[Sabertooth]

Dude, the North Ridge is hideous right now. The snow is completely gone. Why would you climb a ridge of loose talus, when there are excellent climbing routes like the Lava Headwall, Stormy Monday, or the Adams Glacier right next to it?

[Courtenay]

I totally agree, I can't understand why anyone would choose to ascend the N. Ridge anytime other than very early season. It's a bunch of scree, talus, jagged lava, with some tricky snow fingers to the (left ascending) of the spires, I'd strongly urge an ascent on any other route, then a ski descent, carry over to south side, OR bite the bullet and just descend it. Good views, but unpleasant. Here's a link to a trip report/pictures of our Adams Glacier ascent/N. Ridge descent two weeks ago: http://www.bodyresults.com/A2Adams.asp

 

 

[mattp]

I haven't climbed the North Ridge, but I've climbed both the Lava Cleaver and the NW Ridge, and I think the disdain for that "hideous talus" may be a bit overstated here. A slag heap climb up the side of a volcano can be quite enjoyable as long as you are not expecting something else, and it doesn't take an extraordinary amount of care to manage the hazards of rolling rocks on yourself or your buddies. If you are looking for a non-technical route up Mount Adams with a minimal amount of steep snow, the North Ridge is probably not a bad choice -- that's why it has historically been the second most popular route on the mountain.

[techboy]

ugh, I was using Delorme Topo and I didn't see a big blue blob at 7505'. Of course, I will have a real topo before we climb

[techboy]

Can't seem to find any good route descriptions for Stormy Monday or the Lava Headwall - I know we aren't ready for Adams Glacier, though. Are those two routes comparable?

[skykilo]

I don't think anyone in their right mind would want to climb Lava Headwall or Stormy Monday right now. They're melted out to some nice 50 degree scree. Adams Glacier was OK the weekend before last, but it looked like it would be seeing some crevasse navigation problems quite soon.

[Sabertooth]

No way. Stormy Monday is completely snow covered except the central section where you cross over to the left. From the trip reports I've read, the rock is farily solid there not "scree".

 

Mattp makes a good point. If you like climbing loose volcanic ridges, the North Ridge is easier technically than any of the three routes mentioned above.

[benman]

50 degree scree? Bologna. The greatest angle of repose that I’ve seen on unconstrained metamorphic rock is 46.3 degrees.

 

Seriously though, I too can’t understand everyone’s disdain the North Ridge. I find it quite pleasant with tennis shoes and it’s by far the quickest access from the north. Forget those crampons and glunky boots. Shorts and t-shirt all the way. I recommend camping at the High Camp because that’s where you’ll find the best water and views. The lake is ~30 minutes above there. Look for wands along the ridge because some of the crossings aren’t obvious. If you feel the need for a rope you’re most likely off route. There are some bivies above the lake but plan on melting water.

 

Check out my website for more info on this steep skiing amusement park. I can vouch for steep scree on both Stormy and Lava. It may be possible to avoid on Stormy but there isn’t much you can do about rockfall, which I consider to be the primary hazard on both.

[skykilo]

OK- I don't know about Stormy Monday, but North Ridge afforded a good look at some stuff that screamed "Spring climb!" on Lava Headwall.

But North Ridge could be fun with tennis shoes and a light pack.

[JoshK]

I'll third the "not so bad" comments for the north ridge. I did exactly what ben mentions last year...climb it in tennis shoes with light gear. I actually had a lot of fun and got exacty what I was looking for, lots of vertical, some amount of elevation and good excercise. I have been on many many many things that are way looser, scarier, and shittier than the north ridge of adams. I never once felt at risk for getting hit by falling rock or having something collapse beneath me. Considering I arrived at the top to find hoardes coming up from the south, I would gladly take an easy skree climb in solitude over an easy snow climb with dumbshits all around.

[Alpine_Tom]

Descending it (after climbing Adams Glacier about this time two years ago) there are a number of bivvy sites actually up on the North Ridge itself. That might save you some time in the AM.

I'm with the others, though, I thought it was a pretty crumbly and scary descent.

 

Re. the approach -- at our tent, we ran into John Burroughs, the president of Cascade Designs. He said that the Divide Creek trail is shorter and starts higher, so it might be preferable over Killen Creek. The map seems to bear this out, but I haven't done it.

[CraigA]

I attempted the North Ridge last year and found it fun. I also agree that if your going for a Cascade Classic you will need to keep looking , but if your looking for some fun scrambling and a ton of awesome views, the North Ridge is great .

 

It also sounds like there may not be a ton of expierence in the group so the North Ridge would again prove a good route.

 

Enjoy

[Flying_Ned]

techboy said:

We are heading up north ridge last weekend of July - can anyone recommend a good spot to camp? Other than High Camp, that is...GPS coords might be kinda helpful...

Thanks!

 

Did North Ridge about 8 Septembers ago with Norman Clyde and another. Loose pile of talus and dirt to be sure, but the approach is beautiful and the ridge is fairly quick. Remember to move climber's right (W) if you get deadended near the upper small cliffs.

 

Go light, bring warm clothes and a bomber tent, and bivy on the summit or just below. I remember enjoying one of the most spectacular sunsets I've ever seen. Very doable from car to summit with a full pack. The only other decent bivy on the ridge is right at the base, but you'll be waisting half a day sitting there.

[Pencil_Pusher]

Or you can just sleep in the hut on the summit. It's a bit on the worn side...

[Fairweather]

Anyone here ever been on/climbed Lava Ridge? I've done a few other routes on Adams, but never this one. The upper part of the ridge looks like it might afford some interesting snow/ice with some good views? Also, CE Rusk attempted it in "Tales of a Western Mountaineer", so it has a little history goin' for it.

 

As for the North Ridge: I concur with those here that say it isn't nearly as bad as it looks in terms of loose rock. It is "tennis-shoeable" up in late season, but some good leather mountain boots will be necessary to cross the icecap and to keep your ankles together on the descent. Also, while Divide Camp is probably a better approach for Adams Glacier or NW Ridge, I think Killen Creek is still best for the North Ridge. IMHO.

 

I suspect that Mazama Glacier's popularity in recent years has pushed the North Ridge to "third place" in climber traffic. But the drive sure is a lot shorter from Puget Sound area!

 

Adams is a neat mountain! Have fun.

[AllYouCanEat]

Fairweather said:

Anyone here ever been on/climbed Lava Ridge?

 

Ben and I climbed this route when we scouted and skied the Lyman. I don't know how it would be now but as of several weeks ago it was a good climb. There is a nice couloir that allows access to the ridge. I thought the climb was relatively easy and the upper headwall was never over 45 degrees, if that. The middle would be mostly rock by now. Enjoy, watch for rockfall.