Alex Posted July 10, 2003 Share Posted July 10, 2003 forrest_m said: chucK said: Hey Alex, did you go right under the big roof on BBB then turn the roof as per Newest Industry? That way is fun. how else would you finish BBB? just did that a few weeks ago and didn't see any other way to go. (pretty cool climb, bottom is strenuous for the grade but the traverse and roof finish are neat) No the original finish to BBB is to take a left about 50 feet up, and climb up a grassy gardening crack to a tree anchor. The topo (Cummings and also Sky Valley Rock) say "bring nut tool!" At first I thought it was because the crack took nuts so well, people have had trouble cleaning them or something. No, its because you have to garden out your placements. So I skipped that sheit, and just ran it out to the top. Thats why I thought the route was stupid, because its over in the first 15 feet if you climb it like I did. I looked at the roof continuation, but one topo said "no pro" or some such so was a little loathe to go onsight it. I also tried the 11a slab route, that was fun! Anyway, just about everything else I've ever done at Index, including GNS but not including Aries Chimney, has had more enjoyable climbing than BBB with original finish. Alex Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jon Posted July 10, 2003 Share Posted July 10, 2003 I thought the routes at winterlock wall at FC were garbage, I'm glad they were chopped, mainly for peoples safety. I obvioulsy appreciate people putting time into throwing up routes but those were just too manufactured, you can clean shitty choss all you won't but you still end up with, well, shitty choss. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cpt.Caveman Posted July 11, 2003 Share Posted July 11, 2003 The ones that take me 3-5 tries. Even then though- they end up usually being good. It's usually the weather or a learning curve. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Norsky Posted July 11, 2003 Author Share Posted July 11, 2003 bird said: 2nd to last pitch on Birds of Prey. I threw a hissy fit on that one while on TR. Should have rapped prior to that but my partner usually opts for dirty wet top outs as opposed to rapping. What you talking fool? Topping out on that was nice! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Norsky Posted July 11, 2003 Author Share Posted July 11, 2003 RuMR said: ummm anything at 38... Lot's of people hate the Exit, but you have to admit there are some killer lines if you're into bolts. There's Amazonia wall, Nevermind Wall. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eric8 Posted July 11, 2003 Share Posted July 11, 2003 The human foot if that is the name is alright no way it is 5.8 though. I attempted to scramble up boston today and that was pretty much the worst route ever. I turned around when I almost pulled a huge rock on my head. I tested it too guess not well enough. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Norsky Posted July 11, 2003 Author Share Posted July 11, 2003 Sewer Rat at Skaha. Who dunnit? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted July 11, 2003 Share Posted July 11, 2003 What, u think Sewer Rat is worse than Singing Pig Breakfast Food Company? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bird Posted July 11, 2003 Share Posted July 11, 2003 Norsky said: bird said: 2nd to last pitch on Birds of Prey. I threw a hissy fit on that one while on TR. Should have rapped prior to that but my partner usually opts for dirty wet top outs as opposed to rapping. What you talking fool? Topping out on that was nice! True. I was just having a dark moment. Have you ever had one of those? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spew Posted July 21, 2003 Share Posted July 21, 2003 The crisscrossing routes in the center of nevermind wall. The possibility of a few classic routes could have been put up, instead low end climbers get on the 5.9\10-A cross over other routes and end up anywhere but where they are supposed to. What a mess Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Off_White Posted July 22, 2003 Share Posted July 22, 2003 The Tower Route on Big Four north face. Only time I've been happy to have devils club on a route, since when that was gone all you had was ferns for handholds. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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