leejams Posted July 7, 2003 Posted July 7, 2003 Hooked up with Mike from back east for a 2 day romp up the ridge. Damn cool rte, excellent rock, great weather, in a stunning area! Guide books tell it all so won't go there. Highlights from me were entering the couloir, just above the bottomless slide the snow gave out and went for the big ride down rapidly. Lucky for me there was a huge boulder above the moat to have a perfect 10 landing. Spent the night at the bivvy sights above the couloir where the wind roared and the temperature dropped and it must have been -30 (Ooops wrong thread ). Actually it was a bit nippy but what a cool place to spent the night. Next day we let the weather calm down a bit and warm up so got a bit of a late start but no hurry. We had a great climb and were loving it. Soloed the beginning and then what we thought was the first 5.7 pitch turned out to be like a 5.9 pitch to a dead end and ended up seeing the true rte way below and rapped down to it. Other than that pretty straightforward. We swung leads and Mike ended up with a sweet 5.7 slab finger crack that I tried to talk him out of but NOOoooooo. Anyway, I had some cool leads and did pretty well I think for my first real multipitch alpine climb. I ended up with the first lead after the 75 Ft rapp down from the gendarme across the wet,icy, crap . And this is where we met up with pete and erik and the only climbers on the ridge. Those guys were rocking and passed us up and doing it in 1 day . I was hating my large pack watching those 2. But easily made the summit from there. The roller coaster trip back to the car was freakin long. Erik warned us the trip up to longs pass would suck it did. But what a great 2 days! Quote
JoshK Posted July 7, 2003 Posted July 7, 2003 Nice job, Lee. Yeah, that wet icy section sucks ass. It is no fun in rock shoes. I thought that was the crux of the whole climb when I did it. Quote
Cpt.Caveman Posted July 7, 2003 Posted July 7, 2003 Oh what a stunning route of perfection. Cheers! Quote
leejams Posted July 7, 2003 Author Posted July 7, 2003 Cpt.Caveman said: Oh what a stunning route of perfection. Cheers! I agree dude! Ton O fun! Quote
leejams Posted July 7, 2003 Author Posted July 7, 2003 [. Yeah, that wet icy section sucks ass. It is no fun in rock shoes. I thought that was the crux of the whole climb when I did it. I would agree with you there ironman But home free from there and whoever put those pins in that wet crappy slab Quote
Smoker Posted July 7, 2003 Posted July 7, 2003 Nice work Lee Thats some cascade climbing at its finest way to Quote
JayB Posted July 7, 2003 Posted July 7, 2003 Muy Bueno Lee. Nice way to get your alpine-rock-multipitch career rolling! Quote
leejams Posted July 7, 2003 Author Posted July 7, 2003 That was all the special ed teachings you's guys handed out to me. Quote
nolanr Posted July 8, 2003 Posted July 8, 2003 Nice job Lee. A little less brushy than S. Ridge of Kyes? Quote
Bug Posted July 9, 2003 Posted July 9, 2003 I've done Stuart in a day and in two days. Either way it's fun for it's own reasons. Quote
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