Lambone Posted January 15, 2002 Author Share Posted January 15, 2002 Yeah, and Ice is not a commodity... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Heinouscling Posted January 15, 2002 Share Posted January 15, 2002 How bout this? If I'm below the ice, about ready to jump on a TR, and someone comes along and gives me shit about TRing. Then I offer that climber the opportunity to lead the climb. If the climber leads it, then I clap. If the climber does not lead it, and is just telling me not to TR, then I tell that climber to kiss my pimply, white, -Heinous Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cpt.Caveman Posted January 15, 2002 Share Posted January 15, 2002 quote: Originally posted by Heinouscling: How bout this? If I'm below the ice, about ready to jump on a TR, and someone comes along and gives me shit about TRing. Then I offer that climber the opportunity to lead the climb. If the climber leads it, then I clap. If the climber does not lead it, and is just telling me not to TR, then I tell that climber to kiss my pimply, white, -Heinous Werd up. I like the way you spray. Keep it up Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Heinouscling Posted January 15, 2002 Share Posted January 15, 2002 quote: Originally posted by Cpt.Caveman: Werd up. I like the way you spray. Keep it up I just hope I can spray, in person, at the ice fest, as well as I can here. It may take a few brews. SPRAY GOOD, SPRAY HARD, SPRAY LIKE YOU KNOW YOU SHOULD!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cpt.Caveman Posted January 15, 2002 Share Posted January 15, 2002 I think I made a mention to liquid courage earlier today Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
icegirl Posted January 15, 2002 Share Posted January 15, 2002 Here here! I didn't get the luxery of learning to ice climb on a TR. It was follow that bad boy or nothing. On my second every ice climb, when my ropegun found out I couldn't get a screw out (Hey, it was in a really awkward place, I unclipped it too soon, and then swung away from it, I was new) he lowered me back down to it, and made me do the last (hardest part) of the pitch again. Needless to say, I never left another peice, rock or ice. I don't know if TR'ing stuff would have made any real difference in my learning curve, but I think it would have made things more enjoyable at first... Though I've been know to get pissed when a gaggle of student spreads out in front of Deeping Wall (TR's and all), and we asked if they minded if we lead it while they were 'lecturing' and they made some asshole comment about it being everybody's ice and THEY had just as much right to be there as us, then stayed right there. I just didn't get that one. It wasn't like we'd been rude. They didn't climb it for like another hour, and even then it turned out to be placing screw training for anchors instead of climbing... That's the kind of stuff that gives TR's a bad name. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
max Posted January 15, 2002 Share Posted January 15, 2002 quote: Originally posted by icegirl: Here here!I didn't get the luxery of learning to ice climb on a TR. It was follow that bad boy or nothing. I'm not sure how following is less of a luxury than tr-ing? The bottom line is they're both "not leading". And does following do any less damagethan tr-ing? It seems one gets just as much enjoyment, takes the same amount of risk, and cause the same amount of damage following as some dude or dudette tr-ing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ade Posted January 15, 2002 Share Posted January 15, 2002 Most people don't repeatedly second a route for half or a whole day hacking the shit out of it though do they? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Heinouscling Posted January 15, 2002 Share Posted January 15, 2002 quote: Originally posted by Ade: Most people don't repeatedly second a route for half or a whole day hacking the shit out of it though do they? Who said anything about a half or whole day? You TR it once and move on. You must be thinking of "The Mountaineers". Uh oh, here we go again. Lets see if we can get the ol' Mountaineers thread going again. -Heinous Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JayB Posted January 15, 2002 Share Posted January 15, 2002 quote: Originally posted by max: I'm not sure how following is less of a luxury than tr-ing? The bottom line is they're both "not leading". And does following do any less damagethan tr-ing? It seems one gets just as much enjoyment, takes the same amount of risk, and cause the same amount of damage following as some dude or dudette tr-ing. Word. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cpt.Caveman Posted January 15, 2002 Share Posted January 15, 2002 Now hasn't this thread turned into an inflatable chest\ego one I dont know if people were running all day on any climbs but whatever.... I am sure to follow a lot but not lead as much. See Dru's comments noted above in my post Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
icegirl Posted January 15, 2002 Share Posted January 15, 2002 How would following be any less of a luxery than TR'ing... Well, when I was trained to follow, the idea was to be proficient, fast, and no hangdogging as sometimes due to the position of the Leader, it would make his life uncomfortable. I agree, neither are leading. From a mental standpoint, they are different. If you are slow on a TR, then it is just freezing the belayer. If you are a slow follower, you can make or break the "team's" chances of finishing a big route. Plus you have to deal with pulling screws. Last time I checked this added some time and pump factor to just going straight up the wall with no reasons to stop, and only having to focus on climbing. It could just be that I need to work on my technique and get better at following, but I still get a very different feel from following vs TR'ing. But I'm probably just spouting off what most already know... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Heinouscling Posted January 15, 2002 Share Posted January 15, 2002 quote: Originally posted by Cpt.Caveman: Now hasn't this thread turned into an inflatable chest\ego one I dont know if people were running all day on any climbs but whatever....I am sure to follow a lot but not lead as much. See Dru's comments noted above in my post I say "action", not words. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cpt.Caveman Posted January 15, 2002 Share Posted January 15, 2002 quote: Originally posted by Heinouscling: I say "action", not words. Yeah I can beat my chest a lot too and have been known to. But I lead maximum 5.4 WI2. I can follow 5.11 WI5 Shit man that allows me to do routes on Andromeda [ 01-14-2002: Message edited by: Cpt.Caveman ] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nolanr Posted January 15, 2002 Share Posted January 15, 2002 This brings back happy memories. I think the first post I ever started on this site was something about ice climbing etiquette, and I seem to remember getting flamed quite a bit for it. But time has passed, and those wounds have healed. Seems like maybe attitudes toward TRing ice have mellowed a bit since the last go around. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lambone Posted January 22, 2002 Author Share Posted January 22, 2002 I take it back...I got skunked by topropers on the second and third pitches of Icy BC today...I really wanted to lead all three Oh well, ran laps on Deeping wall instead. We had a contest to see who could knock the least anount of ice off. Vege was a close second with only three small chunks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lambone Posted January 22, 2002 Author Share Posted January 22, 2002 quote: Originally posted by icegirl: Here here!I didn't get the luxery of learning to ice climb on a TR. It was follow that bad boy or nothing. On my second every ice climb.... Just in case you didn't realize it, when you second an ice climb you are usually on top rope. Unless the ice traverses horisontaly or something... Sorry, just had to be a smart ass. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cpt.Caveman Posted January 22, 2002 Share Posted January 22, 2002 You guys are whining about nonsense. Everyone has and will TR. IT's a damn sport and there is no reason to break your neck if you are not ready to lead. Just use common sense. If you go to IC BC then expect tring. What else would you expect. Go somewhere else and you will see less people Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lambone Posted January 22, 2002 Author Share Posted January 22, 2002 Yah dat is true ya know, but it twas the first tyme I had seen topropes on a multi pitch ruute eeheee. It was totaly weird riiiight. The guys TRing up there were from UW and were actually pretty cool. They even let us jump on some ropes. It was just kind of a let down to pull the bulge on the first pitch and see some one standing there waiting to throw a TR down on it. Got to see the infamous J. Nelson strut his stuff on ICY BC. No helmet...even with three parties above him....ballsy dude. [ 01-22-2002: Message edited by: Lambone ] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cpt.Caveman Posted January 22, 2002 Share Posted January 22, 2002 quote: Originally posted by Lambone: Yah dat is true ya know, but it twas the first tyme I had seen topropes on a multi pitch route eeheee. It was totaly weird riiiight. The guys TRing up there were from UW and were actually pretty cool. They even let us jump on some ropes.It was just kind of a let down to pull the bulge on the first pitch and see some one standing there waiting to throw a TR down on it. Got to see the infamous J. Nelson strut his stuff on ICY BC. No helmet...even with three parties above him....ballsy dude. [ 01-22-2002: Message edited by: Lambone ] Jim's Bad ass too. Good for him. He's a cool guy too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lambone Posted January 22, 2002 Author Share Posted January 22, 2002 Yeah, nice guy... He led that thing with style too, placed about half as many scews as my sketchy ass. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daler Posted January 22, 2002 Share Posted January 22, 2002 Just a quick response to the whole Deeping wall issue. First of all leading the deeping wall in this years conditions is not being a "crazy mother Fucker" I led it twice this year and felt totally in control. Grade 6 ice is often much harder and run out than the deeping wall. Although in a area like marble canyon where there are massive amounts of people tring to climb, toproping should be expected, but leaders always have the right of way!! It does bum me out to find a climb like the deeping wall all picked out because it does take away from the challenge on lead, but again I'll just head somewhere else to find virgin hard ice.I agree with the comments that excessive toproping just work against you. But no one should ever step onto the sharpend on ice and not be anything but totally in control. To do otherwise is just stupid. If you want to improve get a mentor or hire a guide and get some honest learning done, toproping grade 5 ice a hundred times ice doesn't teach you much, except that its steep and pumpy. dale remsberg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cpt.Caveman Posted January 22, 2002 Share Posted January 22, 2002 quote: Originally posted by daler: Just a quick response to the whole Deeping wall issue. First of all leading the deeping wall in this years conditions is not being a "crazy mother Fucker" I led it twice this year and felt totally in control. Grade 6 ice is often much harder and run out than the deeping wall. Although in a area like marble canyon where there are massive amounts of people tring to climb, toproping should be expected, but leaders always have the right of way!! It does bum me out to find a climb like the deeping wall all picked out because it does take away from the challenge on lead, but again I'll just head somewhere else to find virgin hard ice.I agree with the comments that excessive toproping just work against you. But no one should ever step onto the sharpend on ice and not be anything but totally in control. To do otherwise is just stupid. If you want to improve get a mentor or hire a guide and get some honest learning done, toproping grade 5 ice a hundred times ice doesn't teach you much, except that its steep and pumpy. dale remsberg Yes nice outlook. However some points - it's an icicle. Who cares if someone thinks you are "crazy mother fucker"? It's not like tring ice is changing the world or something. Maybe getting pumpy and on steep ice is all I want to know about tring hard stuff and therefore gives me other personal gratification. Maybe I just want a workout... Maybe it sux to be picked out but it's like Exit 38 of ice I think we already proved that leaders have right of way... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lambone Posted January 22, 2002 Author Share Posted January 22, 2002 quote: Originally posted by daler: Just a quick response to the whole Deeping wall issue. First of all leading the deeping wall in this years conditions is not being a "crazy mother Fucker"....If you want to improve get a mentor or hire a guide and get some honest learning done, toproping grade 5 ice a hundred times ice doesn't teach you much, except that its steep and pumpy. dale remsberg Don't get me wrong, I wasn't trying to say that you were out of control. Hell, I wasn't even there. I guess I meant that its crazy that you've got the confidence to climb 40 feet above the deck on thin ice without any decent gear. I give props to ya man, nice job. I thought the route was pretty easy too (all hooking + bomber steps), but then again I was just full of top rope power. I'd agree that top roping doesn't help you prepare to stay in control mentaly, but I think that mileage does help technique. Of course some people learn faster than others. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lambone Posted January 22, 2002 Author Share Posted January 22, 2002 P.S.- Crack is the one who got me talking like that last week. Every other word is F*&^%... Sorry if I offended you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.