Cpt.Caveman Posted January 2, 2002 Share Posted January 2, 2002 Has been great. Hopped on many new routes and flailed madly in the last few days. Did a New Years first climb with Crack of GNS mit headlamp last night and Roger's Corner today. Ticked just in time when ChuckM showed up then rain. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bronco Posted January 4, 2002 Share Posted January 4, 2002 quote: Originally posted by Cpt.Caveman: Has been great. Hopped on many new routes and flailed madly in the last few days... There is no other kind of flailing I've seen. Acually, that's not true, if you've seen me try a 5.12 move (I'm not even close) then it can look pretty meager. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted January 4, 2002 Share Posted January 4, 2002 I like the "controlled flail" where someone is groundfall distance out from their pro and shaking like Elvis, then they start to peel off, chuck a dyno, catch it, slide off, re-establish, and beached-whale onto a ledge, all the while babbling "oh my god take take oh shit oh no!" and the belayer is either sleeping or mumbling "You can do it bro, looking good!" Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cpt.Caveman Posted January 4, 2002 Author Share Posted January 4, 2002 quote: Originally posted by Bronco: There is no other kind of flailing I've seen. Acually, that's not true, if you've seen me try a 5.12 move (I'm not even close) then it can look pretty meager. I will bring the rope rocket and you will flail when trying to follow. It is a whole new level for me Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bronco Posted January 4, 2002 Share Posted January 4, 2002 A friend of mine went climbing with Crack last saturday. I saw him a few days later and he has this big bruise on his forehead over his right eye. So I ask and he tells me that coming out of the little roof on the lizzard route, he's feeling a little gripped and in order to reach the crack on the face he plants his forehead on the edge of the roof so he can keep 4 points of contact with the rock or he is going to whip off into space. He made the move but was left with a reminder of course I had to tell him its not ethical to use your forehead while flailing. Sounded funnier the first time. Oh well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cpt.Caveman Posted January 4, 2002 Author Share Posted January 4, 2002 I wonder why he was flailing on that roof. Must have been a bad weekend for him. OH well. I wait for the day Dru shows up for his beating at Index Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted January 4, 2002 Share Posted January 4, 2002 Every time I go within 10 km of Index the rain starts. Maybe this spring i wil take advantage of some high pessure systems. I know that I can expect Index 5.8 to be Squamish 10b and willplan my leads accordingly. At least with Caveman belaying me I know there will be a soft landing if I crater! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cpt.Caveman Posted January 4, 2002 Author Share Posted January 4, 2002 quote: Originally posted by Dru: Every time I go within 10 km of Index the rain starts. Maybe this spring i wil take advantage of some high pessure systems. I know that I can expect Index 5.8 to be Squamish 10b and willplan my leads accordingly. At least with Caveman belaying me I know there will be a soft landing if I crater! And crater you might. I got just the 5.8 for you Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bronco Posted January 5, 2002 Share Posted January 5, 2002 quote: Originally posted by Cpt.Caveman: And crater you might. I got just the 5.8 for you first pitch of the Lizard? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mattp Posted January 5, 2002 Share Posted January 5, 2002 If his rainfall magic comes through, the approach to the first (5.8) pitch of the G.M. route is a sure bet for a crater. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cpt.Caveman Posted January 5, 2002 Author Share Posted January 5, 2002 quote: Originally posted by mattp: If his rainfall magic comes through, the approach to the first (5.8) pitch of the G.M. route is a sure bet for a crater. Good choice. I like it too. Dru you get on some cool routes when you come down You'll feel bad if you don't lead them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chucK Posted January 5, 2002 Share Posted January 5, 2002 I climbed at Index with this dude said he climbed 5.10. He didn't lead anything. Not even the GNS. He never fell though, and we did climb some 5.10. He had probably heard of this Index reputation and thought I was sandbagging him. "Wanna lead this? It's 5.6." Yeah Dru c'mon down. GM route. If the easy slab way is too wet then just do the boulder move direct start. It's easy dude. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cpt.Caveman Posted January 5, 2002 Author Share Posted January 5, 2002 That is hpw Index is brutally honestly shows you at what level you truly climb at Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NoBolt Posted January 5, 2002 Share Posted January 5, 2002 Aries on the GNS is a great warm up route. I agree the GM route is great fun. P2 is interesting. I tried the .10 slabby start but had to whimper (fell) back down after beign half way up. Ended up TR'ing the slabby part and then going up from the first belay anchors. Another fun area is Private Idaho and the Sport wall. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mattp Posted January 6, 2002 Share Posted January 6, 2002 The truly interesting pitch on the GM route is the last one -- offwidth anyone? Most people climb "Heart of the Country" instead (locker hands). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
erik Posted January 6, 2002 Share Posted January 6, 2002 true that matt, a truly enjoyable forearm jamming offwidth. and speaking of index just got back me and jon j climbed the zilla, jap gardens, thin fingers and a couple oil cans. all perfectly dry with a warm breeze. purly bliss Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mattp Posted January 6, 2002 Share Posted January 6, 2002 Perfectly dry? I wouldn't have thunk it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
erik Posted January 6, 2002 Share Posted January 6, 2002 two wet spots on the start of zilla, two wet spots low down on gardens all avoidable. these three routes stay dry most of the year. even in a lite rain. shhhh..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted January 7, 2002 Share Posted January 7, 2002 so is there a route at index called "ape index" or not? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
erik Posted January 7, 2002 Share Posted January 7, 2002 quote: Originally posted by Dru: so is there a route at index called "ape index" or not? can't think of one!? why you ask?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted January 7, 2002 Share Posted January 7, 2002 sounds like it would be a natural... you know... for a reachy type climb... cause "ape index" is reach and it would be at index... duh? i saw that bigfoot there at the espresso hut maybe that is the Index Ape? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bronco Posted January 7, 2002 Share Posted January 7, 2002 Apes and Ballerinas - 5.10 b crack at "the Beach" area on the Upper Town Wall The Ape is p1, the Ballerina is p2 no mention of Ape Index in Cramer's Book Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chucK Posted January 7, 2002 Share Posted January 7, 2002 There is a climb at Hag Crag [that I haven't been able to do] that seems to be an extreme reach problem, but it's already got a way cool name: Please, speak now, the anticipation of tapping in rhythm makes me feel oh so light. That is SO kewl. There's also a climb called Gorilla my dreams. Where you thinking of that one Dru? Anybody reading this successfully done PSNTAOTIRMMFOSL? I want the beta. Chuck [ 01-07-2002: Message edited by: chucK ] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted January 7, 2002 Share Posted January 7, 2002 i designate capt. and erik to scrub some unclimbed 20' slab route and make an fa and name it ape index, then steal bigfoot from the espresso hut and leave him hanging off the top bolt. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
erik Posted January 7, 2002 Share Posted January 7, 2002 i already got something up there that we could call that. though i got to climb it first and maybe even tell someone else about it. by the way did anyone ever go try school, work and rehab?? darryl?? until then i aint going to do another route there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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